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06-03-2016, 02:04 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Haslet Texas
Posts: 774
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Replacing Drain Valves
Our 36CKTS has always had issues in both opening and closing all 3 tank valves and I'm convinced it will only be a matter of time before one or all fail.
I have decided to replace all 3 valves later on this summer. I think I'll go electric but haven't made a final decision yet.
I'd like to hear from some folks who have gone down this road if possible? Did you go electric and how was the install? Is manual better?
How big of a can of worms is this?
__________________
Former Owner of
2016 Cedar Creek 36 POS (My Last FR Product)
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06-03-2016, 02:59 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 231
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__________________
2015 Crusader 315RST
2011 Silverado 2500HD
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06-03-2016, 03:36 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Stony Plain, Alberta
Posts: 218
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Last summer I had to clean out my black valve, dummy mistake, repeatly opening and closing valve during winterizeing I jammed TP in the valve.
The hardest part or tidious part was the underbelly.
Mind you the valves are in very tight between the pipe. You will need something to separate the pipe, just enough so you can easily remove the valve but mostly so you can properly reinsert the valve with the o'ring still attached.
Ah once you do one the other 2 will be easy(ier).
Not exactly sure on what you meant really. Are they stiff if so maybe try grease the rods on the handle, unless you have cables which I hear can give you problems.
Or are they leaking, if so you can spin the handles which will push the gate to seal properly. Just make sure you don't loosen the rod completely.
This is what I would try first, as for the electric can't help there.
John
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07- Classic 2500 LT CC 4x4 SB Duramax/Ally
13-320RLT Crusader TE
Reese 16K Kwik Slide/Prodigy brake contoller
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06-03-2016, 04:05 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 95
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I will be tuning in to this thread.
I have a new to me 2014 36ckts with cable operated valves that seem to be too hard to move. I poured valve lube down the drains and lubed the cables near the handle...no improvement. I'd like to know/see how replacing with electric valves is accomplished.
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Doug & Cindy
2014 36 CKTS: Titan Disc Brakes, EMS, Trav'lr, 20k GooseBox
2016 Ram 3500 CTD 4x4 CCLB DRW, Laramie, Factory Rear Air Suspension, 3.73
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06-03-2016, 06:51 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Warsaw,NC
Posts: 7,184
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My black water tank valve leaks bad, I had to put another valve to close it up. I would be very interested in a electric valve
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
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06-03-2016, 09:19 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 638
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I haven't seen many good posts about electric valves. A couple things about the manual valves. Pouring oil or lube in the tank won't do much if anything. The oil floats on the water in the tank and won't get to the valve. The part of the valve that sticks is on the outside not internal. Open the belly of the rig and find the valve. On the end of the valve is a slide with the cable attached to it. The slide is what needs to be lubed. I used a few shots of silicon or dry lube. The cable may be too long and it will flex. You can shorten them by cutting them with a Dremel and a cut-off wheel. While you have them disconnected you can also pull the cable out of the housing and smear some grease on it when you slide it in. I also put a auxiliary shut off valve on the end of my sewer pipe. I can connect my hose to that. I have just left it in place to catch any drips or leaks from the main valves before I hook my sewer hose on.
__________________
2015 Chev Silverado 3500 dually D/A
2016 Cedar Creek 36CK
B&W Patriot 18K, Trail-Aire pinbox,
Level up, dual panes & all that stuff...
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06-03-2016, 09:20 PM
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#7
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Old Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 48
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I have a 2005 Daydreamer which has Drain Master electric valves. These valves have proven to be most unreliable. Mind you they are 10yrs old. I've taken them out, cleaned and lubed them. Still untrustworthy. The folks at Drain Master are a pleasure to deal with and I have just ordered and received 2 new valves. I intend to replace the valves on the gray water tanks with these. For the black tank I have bought a cable valve and will see if I can install it without too much issue. The reasoning being that I can access the gray tanks "reasonably easy". The black tank is more difficult. I can leave the gray tanks open if need be as there is a manual valve at the hose connection. In fact, my gray tanks are open now and the wire harnesses are unplugged.
Cedar Creek did not install these valves as recommended by Drain Master. That may be a large part of the problem. I was able to reinstall one of the valves to meet the manufactures specifications but the rest require modifications to the plumbing. This project is going to take a few days.
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06-04-2016, 09:31 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 119
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My black valve started leaking and it Was NOT the valve. It was the cable. It is a braided wire cable that starts to puff out with use and wont go into the cable sheathing. Replaced the cable works fine. All three valves are very hard to open and close. This is the cable not the valve.
__________________
2015 Cedar Creek 36 CKTS
2016 Ford F350 DRW
2016 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic Low
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06-04-2016, 02:03 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 172
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I replace my kinked cable black valve with a Manuel one little trouble to get to but it workes
__________________
North Ga
2015 40' cls
Never to be moved
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06-04-2016, 04:10 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Haslet Texas
Posts: 774
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I agree I don't think it is the actual valve that is the primary issue, I think it's the cables.
We have our summer trip planned around a wedding in the middle of July so I'll pull the pans off when we get back and see what I'm getting into.
Opening and closing all 3 valves have been difficult from the day we got our trailer and I'm sure it's the cables and that's one reason I am thinking about going electric. You really have to lean into it to open or close all of them.
__________________
Former Owner of
2016 Cedar Creek 36 POS (My Last FR Product)
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06-04-2016, 05:39 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 119
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Yes. And putting that much pressure ruins the braided cables.
__________________
2015 Cedar Creek 36 CKTS
2016 Ford F350 DRW
2016 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic Low
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06-04-2016, 07:23 PM
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#12
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2007 WildCat 32QBBS
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick03hd
Yes. And putting that much pressure ruins the braided cables.
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When I added a cable control to our galley valve, the replacement cable was solid wire inner cable. It came in a 6 foot length. Might be a better option for you.
__________________
*Current: 2005 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually 6.0 diesel 4x4*
*Retired: 1987 F350 Crew Cab Dually 6.9 turbo diesel
2007 Forest River WildCat 32QBBS
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06-04-2016, 08:34 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 119
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That's what the cable I replaced on the black was a solid wire.
__________________
2015 Cedar Creek 36 CKTS
2016 Ford F350 DRW
2016 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic Low
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06-06-2016, 10:18 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 95
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Seems to me that a solid wire cable is the only way to go. Wouldn't a braided cable bunch up when pushed?
__________________
Doug & Cindy
2014 36 CKTS: Titan Disc Brakes, EMS, Trav'lr, 20k GooseBox
2016 Ram 3500 CTD 4x4 CCLB DRW, Laramie, Factory Rear Air Suspension, 3.73
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06-06-2016, 11:32 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 119
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That's exactly what happens to the braided cable. That's why I had to replace.
__________________
2015 Cedar Creek 36 CKTS
2016 Ford F350 DRW
2016 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic Low
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06-06-2016, 11:43 AM
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#16
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2007 WildCat 32QBBS
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJNCJ
Seems to me that a solid wire cable is the only way to go. Wouldn't a braided cable bunch up when pushed?
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Exactly. I didn't think they even used a braided wire on any of them. Doesn't make much sense.
__________________
*Current: 2005 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually 6.0 diesel 4x4*
*Retired: 1987 F350 Crew Cab Dually 6.9 turbo diesel
2007 Forest River WildCat 32QBBS
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06-10-2016, 05:46 PM
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#17
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Old Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 48
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I have replaced the black tank's electric valve with a manual cable valve. That will give me a lot of comfort. I put 2 new Drain Master electric valves in the grey tanks. I only have to drop half a belly panel to access these valves. Replacing the grey valves with manual would be a real pain.
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06-20-2016, 07:34 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Carrollton
Posts: 184
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My cvable type black valve was also sticking and turned out to be quite the task. Had to remove the plastic belly covers under the trailer then I found the dump valve and generously lubed it with WD-40 There are grooves and cracks i worked it into. After a generous lubing and working it in and out a few times it works smooth as new now. My old trailer had the same issue. I seems like they get sticky in time. I'm not sure if the 0=rings dry up or solids get attached to the blade portion of the valve. But the WD-40 always seems to work.
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08-22-2016, 09:20 AM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 67
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So how hard is it to replace the cable? I've got a stuck open black valve that maybe is just the cable and not the valve..
Thanks
Greg
__________________
Truck: 2015 F350 Platinum
Trailer: 2013 Cedar Creek 36CKTS
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08-22-2016, 12:24 PM
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#20
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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The cables aren't that hard to change. If you have the enclosed underbelly, gaining access to the valves is the problem, and that isn't a huge problem depending on whether you want to cut a hole in it or not.
You can go to Valterra's site and download the instructions if you want to see how it's done.
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Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
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