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Old 02-09-2019, 02:27 PM   #1
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residential fridge

I have a 2018 cedar creek silverback , model#35IK with a Whirlpool residential fridge . I can not find the valve for the water going to the ice maker. Can anyone with a 35IK tell where it is ?
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Old 02-09-2019, 02:34 PM   #2
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I have a 37MBH; I never found a valve, when I winterized, I blew it out and ran pink through it.
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Old 02-09-2019, 02:36 PM   #3
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Open the refrigerator and write down the model number of the refrigerator, not the trailer. Then Google will find the refrigerator owner's manual for you. The valve is typically under the refrigerator. If there's a separate shut-off to the trailer water system it'll be up stream of that.

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Old 02-09-2019, 03:08 PM   #4
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On our Riverstone, there is a valve under the kitchen sink for the ice maker.
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Old 02-09-2019, 03:47 PM   #5
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Start at your water manifold, you may have a dedicated line.
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Old 02-09-2019, 04:03 PM   #6
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Ice maker

I have a 2015 Cardinal and my shut off valve for the fridge is in the front bay behind the water connections and dump valves.
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Old 02-09-2019, 05:28 PM   #7
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I have a Cedar Creek 2014 model and the valve is above the tire on the slide the refrigerator is on.
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Old 02-10-2019, 07:34 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spock123 View Post
I have a Cedar Creek 2014 model and the valve is above the tire on the slide the refrigerator is on.
This should be the first place you look, that's where ours is on our River Stone.
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Old 02-10-2019, 11:34 AM   #9
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Just a note, it was a hard valve to turn so I just leave my valve open all the time. I winterize my ice maker too but itís really the line that I winterize. The ice maker itself is supposed to freeze
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Old 02-10-2019, 08:31 PM   #10
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Check underneath of the kitchen slide for this valve. It is for the ice maker and it a push pull valve.
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Old 02-20-2019, 10:38 PM   #11
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Refrigerator power

If anyone has the resi fridge, I'd be interested to know what the current draw is on the resi fridge in the Hathaway. And also how long it will run on 1 battery .

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Old 02-21-2019, 07:48 AM   #12
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The wattage of the refrigerator should be on the data plate inside the refrigerator. Watts is watts -- but only in a perfect world as the inverter consumes power during the imperfect conversion. If listed in amps multiply by the data plate voltage which is often 115 volts

My Whirlpool residential refrigerator (here in my kitchen) looks like what I've seen in some RVs draws 7.5 amps (max load) or about 860 watts.

860 watts at 115v is about 70 amps at 12v (860/12). Typical dealer provided single Group 24 12v battery has about 56 useful amp hours which means my refrigerator would run about 48 minutes at max load on a inverter that runs at 100% energy conversion (only in a perfect world) before the battery voltage dropped too low to do anything.

Your amperage and wattage will be model dependent, of course, and I'm curious what current these draw.

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Old 02-21-2019, 08:04 AM   #13
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Yes, that's exactly how I figured it too. My goal is to have batteries ready to install when our 34IK gets delivered in late March.
The dealer is going to provide one battery which I've requested to be an AGM. I will need to then buy another one (assuming amp draw requirements of 750-900 watts) to get a longer duration when not on shore power.
We overnight at WallyWorld fairly often so its critical to have at least 24 hrs of capacity. Keeping in mind that the fridge only draws during it's on cycle time of about 10-15 min. every hour.
My current setup is 2x92AH batteries carrying only the 700 watt fridge. Works fantastic. Held up for 36 hours during a breakdown when we couldn't get towed to a site due to lack of availability.
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Old 02-21-2019, 08:34 AM   #14
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to tcrossan - why not have the dealer install both new batteries? require that they are a matched set. you'll have to pay him for the 2nd one but get a matched set. that might be more difficult if you have to go out yourself to find a 2nd one that matches what the dealer installed. if you have a specific battery in mind either have the dealer install those, or buy them yourself and take them to the dealer to install. have him issue a credit for the one he was going to install.
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Old 02-21-2019, 09:14 AM   #15
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Much better idea!
That's why I love this forum!!!
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Old 02-21-2019, 09:20 AM   #16
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Looks like a pair of batteries will run the refrigerator for a day and a half with a 700watt max load. Not sure how similar the RV model refrigerators are -- or if there even are RV versions of them. First camper we walked into at the RVA show a couple of weekends ago had what looked like the same unit I have in my kitchen but I wasn't curious enough to check how many amps it pulled. Same Whirlpool model was in several of them.

I prefer the LP versions with automatic switching to 110vAC and back depending on available power. Too many brown- and power-outs in the summer at some campgrounds to trust my beer and ice cream to just 110v power. And it runs on propane on the road. I think I can run a month on one propane cylinder.

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Old 02-21-2019, 09:21 AM   #17
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- What make and size is your Inverter

- Are there any other circuits/outlets powered by the Inverter

most ClassA RVs today, with a residential style 120v fridge, come with at least two batteries - sometimes two 12v in parallel, and sometimes two 6v in series.
some of these RVs will have other outlets powered by the Inverter, if sized larger, or may only be for the fridge, with a smaller inverter...

How long you can have a fridge in cooling mode certainly depends on many factors, though as noted, it does not run constantly. One battery may well be enough for many campers, and yet may not be for others, depending on their usage, how often they open the fridge door(s), how much 'bulk' food they have in the fridge, the temperature in the coach, and outside, etc., etc., which is why it's really difficult to 'tell' anyone how long their fridge will 'run' on their battery setup.
Some folks even shut their fridge off, or to a higher temp setting, when they go to bed, because the fridge, being a large 'cooler' of sorts, will hardly fall in temperature too much during the overnight anyway. Even ice cream in the freezer will be o.k...

With Inverters and 120v residential fridges, electrical usage and management come into play, more than the typical 12v only rv.

Having 'too much' battery storage is never a bad thing, but it also requires more charging, so even then there is a trade-off. Solar can come into play, at least during sun hours, but the generator is typically the battery charger of choice, unless of course, you are traveling and your vehicle/alternator can provide trickle charging to the House batteries while underway.



enjoy : )
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Old 05-20-2019, 01:11 PM   #18
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this is correct for our 18 29re. has anyone had problems with freezer freezing up and refridge not getting cold enough?
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Old 05-20-2019, 01:37 PM   #19
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We have a remote solar operation with six 200 watt solar panels. At one time, we had ten 12v deep cycle batteries in parallel to run a few lights, fans and a residential fridge. Got tired of the low voltage alarm beeping me awake at 4 am because of the fridge start up amp draw.
Switched to eight T-105 Trojan 6v batteries, wired in series to a 48v inverter (3600 wave pure sine wave). No more problems. Of course those 8 batteries weigh 492 lbs but probably not much more than a 5.5 kw generator and fuel.

Whirlpool fridges are notoriously power hungry. Much more than the GE or LG.
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Old 05-22-2019, 01:58 PM   #20
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Sporadic ice

Our 34IK has the Insignia 4 door fridge w ice maker. sometimes it makes ice, sometimes it doesnt. Called factory "tech support " and was advised to unplug it for several hours to defrost the unit. Then it would work again. I'm not buying that advice.
Looking for suggestions.
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