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Old 05-05-2015, 12:45 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Brentf View Post
38FLCamper - thanks for posting that. I have the same fridge but no ice maker. That looks like about 6 amps per hour. I think I read the inverter takes a half amp for itself.

If you are not boondocking but just want to run the fridge while towing that would suggest that you need a
100 amp battery to supply 48 amps over 8 hours or
150 amp battery(s) to supply 75 amps for 12 hours or about the longest you would drive without hooking up. (not counting the trickle charge from the truck).

Or if you had a 150 amp battery you would need to recharge every 12 hours. I am basing that on the recommendation that your batteries last longer is you don't discharge down below 50%.

If you had enough solar to fully recharge during the day and run the fridge then you would need that 150 amp battery to run the fridge overnight (not counting everything else).

I am going to replace my dealer installed marine/rv battery with the biggest trojan that will fit in the battery compartment looks like it is the T1275 which is a 12 volt 150 amp golf cart battery. If that proves too little I'll add a second one to round it out at 300 amps.

I am also trying to figure out if pulling a dedicated 12 volt line off one of my upfitter switches would keep the battery up while towing. The F250 has 2 25amp and 2 10 amp upfitter switches/lines.
When calculating wire size for a desired amp draw, remember to double the length of wire in the calculation. Here is a website that may be of assistance. Amps and Wire Gauge - 12V Circuit

Unless you use a dedicated correctly sized wire, you can never get a good charge on the trailer battery from the TV.
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Old 05-05-2015, 02:02 PM   #12
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38fl....Thanks for the good test...so a current model 18cuft Fridge uses about 150 amp hours per day in moderate temperatures with the ice maker on... and maybe 120amp hours with the icemaker off. This suggests that anyone running a similar sized fridge + normal 12V loads ought to have around a 400ah battery bank like you do ... and that a "normal" 200amp hour bank is really quite inadequate for even 24 hours of boondocking...though it will get you down the road for a long drive till you can plug in again.
Thanks...valuable information!
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Old 05-05-2015, 05:41 PM   #13
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Don,

No problems here.

I'm just trying to do my homework on this purchase, so I don't have regrets after buying.

Everyone,

I noticed, based on pictures, 2016 Cedar Creek 36CKTS have a different model 18 cu ft refrigerator. The handles are different, as is the shape of the top. The picture matches model WRT138FZDM on whirlpool.com that uses 22% less power than the model Cedar Creek was using. It is Energy Star qualified. It would be nice if that is what Cedar Creek is now installing!

It is rated 370kWh (vs 475kWh) per year, which I think equates to ~ 102 AH per day. Those ratings are for no icemaker, which I think would be the same if equipped but turned off. The formula I used is 370kWh/365 days * 1000 watts per kWh / 10V = 102 daily AH use. I used 10 instead of 12V to account for about 20% efficiency loss in the inverter. Does that formula sound right?

Chris
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Old 05-05-2015, 06:13 PM   #14
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I will be installing my 40amp battery charger soon, I don't think CC has a good converter


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Old 05-05-2015, 06:28 PM   #15
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That was the first thing I did - tear out the WFCO converter and installed new Progressive Dynamics 9260 converter
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Old 05-05-2015, 06:40 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brentf View Post
...150 amp battery(s) to supply 75 amps for 12 hours or about the longest you would drive without hooking up. (not counting the trickle charge from the truck)...
Depending on your truck alternator and the size of the charge wire, the factory alternators can put out from 85A-170A (depending on the size alternator) while running down the highway which is more than a trickle charge. Once the initial charging of the battery after starting, there is minimal draw on the alternator to run the electrical system.
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Old 05-05-2015, 08:15 PM   #17
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I figure from 38FLCampers' tests to plan on around 145 amp hours a day with an ice maker. I am going to fish my amp meter out of the barn and put it on the wiring to tell what it pulls when the fridge is on. The complication is that you have a lot of 12v loads on the battery (pilots, CO/Propane leak monitor, etc.) and you have the inverter and the wiring losses. Then you have the 'how hot is the camper so how hard does the fridge have to work?'. Guess we are looking for some general parameters.
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Old 05-05-2015, 10:35 PM   #18
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Yes lots of little draws and items running power on the 12Volt side... From another post I put up...

Here are some numbers of our power usage by device/appliance... These are all measured as 12V power draw (120V AC Appliances as measured through the Inverter use). Inverter power use at Idle is based on nothing plugged into the inverter. All measurements are done using a Trimetric 2030RV with 500Amp Shunt.




Items Amps
12 Volt Use
IDLE - Phantom Loads 0.90

Lights
1 - LED Puck Light 0.20
2 - LED Puck Light 0.40
3 - LED Puck Light 0.70
4 - LED Puck Light 0.80
Dining Light (3 - Incandescent Bulbs) 4.20
Porch/Step Lights (3 - Incandescent Bulbs) 3.60

Appliances
Water Pump 1.20
Fantastic Fan Vent
Low 1.00
Medium 1.40
High 1.70
Heater (Blower) 7.80
TV Riser Motor 6.50
TV Antenna Amplifier 0.10
Rear TV (12 Volt Jensen) 3.40
Sony DVD/BlueRay Player 0.30

AC Power Use
2000 W Demension Inverter
Idle - No draw 0.90
Fridge On - No compressor 1.00
Fridge On - Compressor 12.60

1000 W Xantrex Inverter (Entertainment)
Idle 0.40
TV and Satellite Box (Standby) 2.00
TV and Satellite Box (On) 18.70
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Old 05-05-2015, 10:59 PM   #19
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Great data, really useful.

One question though
Quote:
Originally Posted by 38FLCamper View Post

Power: 4x6-Volt Batteries (226AH

30 Hours on DC/Inverter - Total Draw was 182 AH.

Battery bank was drawn down to 88% (Based on Trimetric)
Using 182AH out of a 226AH bank should leave you with 19% left instead of almost 90%, since you used most (182 of 226) of the system capacity.

Is my math off?
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Old 05-05-2015, 11:07 PM   #20
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Total battery capacity is actually 226 x 2 for a total of 452 ah. The % is based on the Trimetric gauge and it is possible I have programmed wrong...as the math still doesn't work right
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