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Old 08-29-2016, 03:53 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Joe_GA View Post
I see that your unit is the same year as mine. What happened to damage your roof at such a young age?
I branch from a tree put a whole in the rubber about the size of a dime, I never knew it, the rain got into it and delaminated about 1 square foot of plywood, it was soft and separating it, as plywood will when it gets wet, never came through the ceiling I found it and put esterbond tape over the whole. that only stopped it from getting worst. I could have lived with it but claimed it on my comp. ins. they took care of it. The factory said they couldn't just repair that area because the way it is made and I needed a to replace the whole roof. The dealer said they could just cover it with new wood screwed to it and put a seem in it covering it. Mickey Mouse repair, so I had the Factory do it. The factory told me and my insurance company that it would not last and being the way they build them they had to do it because no dealer could make that repair correctly...
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Old 08-29-2016, 03:56 PM   #12
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Roof

Contact RV Armor, this product is amazing. No maintenance, lifetime warranty!
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Old 08-29-2016, 04:15 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Witch Doctor View Post
I branch from a tree put a whole in the rubber about the size of a dime, I never knew it, the rain got into it and delaminated about 1 square foot of plywood, it was soft and separating it, as plywood will when it gets wet, never came through the ceiling I found it and put esterbond tape over the whole. that only stopped it from getting worst.
I had a tree branch do that also, but I knew it. Next day, got it patched. Hoping it dried out and will not rot. My camper does have an attic vent, so hoping that also helps with the drying out issue.
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Old 08-29-2016, 04:24 PM   #14
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Contact RV Armor, this product is amazing. No maintenance, lifetime warranty!
Life time warranty will not cover a whole from a branch...
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Old 08-29-2016, 04:31 PM   #15
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I had a tree branch do that also, but I knew it. Next day, got it patched. Hoping it dried out and will not rot. My camper does have an attic vent, so hoping that also helps with the drying out issue.
I also have a vent, but once it delams, it will never be the same. My plywood was dry, but separated like leaving a piece of plywood out in the rain the drying out. That's why I repaired it. If I would trade it in they would ding me for it, but I'm not buying any new trailers anymore, this is my last, so I'm trying to keep it in the best condition I can. It seems to me that they built better trailers 4 years ago from the horror stories I read on here now, and I got all them bugs worked out, don't want to do that again at my age...
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Old 08-30-2016, 10:00 AM   #16
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Not self-leveling

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Originally Posted by Joe_GA View Post
Hey Ken, I too use Eternabond tape for preventative measures. It is great stuff! I went to their WEB site to see about Eternacaulk. They don't say if it is self leveling or not. How is it to work?
Joe, It does not flow or self-level like Dicor. But it drys with a less porous surface, looks smoother and stays cleaner. I use it everywhere I once used Dicor. But you will get your fingers sticky smoothing it out. I had a joint that moved about 1/16" at the channels at the base of the front where that channel meets the cap. The other product would fail but the Eternacaulk has continued to hold that seal.

I also prefer the Eternacaulk for going along the edges of the Eternabond tape. It seems to hang on to the TPE backing on the tape better than the competitor.

Ken
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Old 08-30-2016, 10:24 AM   #17
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Lay down Eternabond at the cap to roof rubber before it leaks

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where are you talking about preventative maintenace, like where the cap and roof material meet? Thanks

Exactly. After having the cap to roof seams leak on multiple trailers, I decided this time I would clean off as much of the factory sealant as possible, then lay down a 6" Eternabond over-seam that seal the roof to the fiberglass cap. I use the 'double-stick' to smooth out the transition on either side of the channel. I also use the Eternabond primer.

From this point forward I won't have to lay down sealant every couple of years along an 8' seam. I just inspect the ends and edges to make sure they are holding up. This limits the amount of sealant (Dicor or Eternacaulk) required to keep that 8' seam sealed. I've reduced the potential leaking seam area.

After 2 years I've only touched a couple of places (2-3") with Eternacaulk just above the front gutter at that point where the cap meets the side channels.

Re-seaming the joints where the fiberglass cap meets the roof rubber saves you a lot of Dicor or Eternacaulk in future. I've re-seamed two trailers like this and never had another leak using this technique.

It is a lot easier to do this before the factory sealant gets old, black and cracked. The surface must be clean and it works best if you remove as much of the old sealant as possible. But the primer is designed to improve the Eternabond 'bond' to those old materials if you can't get them off.

I also use Eternabond around sun lights. It's good stuff.

Ken
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Old 08-30-2016, 11:29 AM   #18
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If you can't afford a new plywood substrate for your roof consider this DIY option.

1. Dry out roof completely as possible after removing all trim.

2. Drill multiple small holes thru damaged plywood. Try not to drill thru the entire plywood sheet just enough to get to the final layer but not thru it.

3. Inject low viscosity epoxy into holes. Use a marine grade epoxy that is compatible (as much as it can be) with wet wood.

4. Put heavy object on damaged area to compress playwood back together as much as possible.

5. Apply appropriate glue to plywood and glue roof to it.

6. Apply widest available eternabond tape over seam between roof and cap.

EDIT: LOOKING AT YOUR ROOF WOOD, IT LOOKS LIKE OSB AND NOT PLYWOOD.

It doesn't look like the OSB is bulging but I'm sure it is a little soft.

In lieu of epoxy, I'd use thin Cyanoacrylate glue which is activated by moisture in the wood. Be careful, the heat of activating when curing especially in face of mositure can cause skin burns.

Another option:

Cut the rotted wood out install new wood sexction: Not that difficult: See video:
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