Those breakers are HARD TO SEE. They pop out slightly when an overload. You just push them in to reset. On the Silverback, mine are located in a protected housing in the forward storage compartment.
On the battery side. The breakers are in a row from top to bottom. Any needing reset will be popped up/out. Push them ALL back in fairly snug.
Don't know on your RV as we don't know what model you have. On my CC 33IK this breaker buss is accessible from the front basement behind a rounded plastic cover that is held in place by being wedged in the corner. The breaker is mounted straight back on the wall and yes it is behind the battery/hydraulic compartment.
Thank you JohnVtx. I found it. I pressed the black botton and held it in for about 10 seconds. It didnt solve my problem but at least i can cross that off possible solutions. I still don't have my slides or jacks working.
Jdb.. you found the breaker John pointed out but did not fix your problem. Did you look for the breaker bar I sent a pic of? It is about 4" long, looks like a buss bar, but is not. The micro buttons are on the side. You should be able to trace the red wire from your hydraulic pump back to it. That is how my 33IK is wired and other s have had the same issue. That's all I know to help..
I had a problem with my slides not working and it turned out to be several loose wire connections. I didn't try my jacks, so I don't know if they worked or not. In the photo next to the hydraulic fluid reservoir, you will see a large red and a large white wire. Check to see that they are tight along with all the wires going to that block. Mine were loose and after tightening them the slides worked fine.
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2014 Chevy CC Duramax 4X4 Long Bed
2017 Cedar Creek 36CKTS
MORryde independent suspension with disc brakes
Jdb, Brought our 33IK home today and took photos of the electrical components. I will try to walk thru them..
Sorry pics are rotated but seems the way things sometimes work on this site..
The first pic is the hydraulic motor and I am pointing at the 2 black wires that supply power to it. The direction the power is supplies determines if it runs cw or ccw.
The second pic is the relay. The direction of the power is determined by the relay in the top right pic. The relay in my unit is mounted to the right of motor. Just trace one of the black wires back to find it. The relay switches the Plus and minus to the motor. If you look at the top middle on the relay you see a red wire. This is +12V feed and it goes back to a breaker in the front basement.
The third pic is looking into front basement at the tubular protection panel.
Move that panel away and there is the breaker strip in the bottom right photo. (Last pic) It is mounted back against the wall.. I am pointing to the +12 volt wire coming from the center of the relay in top right pic. The other side is the +12 volts from the battery. There are small push buttons to reset these breakers on the side.
To troubleshoot take a voltmeter and measure the voltage at the red lead on the relay. Should be +12 volts. If no +12 volts then go back to breakers. Measure on the left side. That is the +12 volts buss from the battery. Should be +12 volts if the battery is good. Reset breaker to get 12 volts to relay. The buttons are on the side.
If you have 12 volts at the breaker then the relay is not activating or the motor is damaged. To test the motor, remove the 2 black wires and jump one side to negative on your battery and other side to plus. Does not matter which way as the motor is meant to run bi-directional. If the motor runs then the problem is either the relay or the control to the relay.
Thank you to everyone that responded to my problem. I learned a lot from all the posts. The end result is that my pump overload the system. The rv dealer put an additional 40 amp fuse in the system so this doesn't happen again. Apparently the hydrolic pump draws more power than forest river thinks and it damaged one of the breakers which could not be reset. Cost $101.
Lippert was helpful over the phone. My front jacks were stuck in the down position. As a last ditch effort they instructed me to disconnect the pump and use jumper cables from another bbattery to operate it. Jacks went up right away.
Thank you to everyone that responded to my problem. I learned a lot from all the posts. The end result is that my pump overload the system. The rv dealer put an additional 40 amp fuse in the system so this doesn't happen again. Apparently the hydrolic pump draws more power than forest river thinks and it damaged one of the breakers which could not be reset. Cost $101.
Lippert was helpful over the phone. My front jacks were stuck in the down position. As a last ditch effort they instructed me to disconnect the pump and use jumper cables from another bbattery to operate it. Jacks went up right away.
Sorry, buy part of me can't stop from doing root cause analysis.
Jdb95661, what CC do you have? I am curious, did the dealer make the determination that you needed an additional 40 Amp fuse, or did FR? Is this a larger fuse or same size as before? I am not a fan of putting a larger fuse into a system to get things working, unless I am certain that there was a design flaw.
When you have low voltage, motors draw more current. This could also explain why jumper cables from another battery worked. I would have the battery or batteries checked. Hopefully the dealer checked for loose connections and remedied that as well.
Batteries good. The first thing I checked. We have had this issue since we purchased the unit to a lesser degree. There have been times that the hydrolic system has not worked, but it has never not failed completely before last week.
I spoke to both Forest River and Lippert. The people at Lippert were really helpful. They told me exactly how much power the motor draws. It draws slightly more than the factory fuse. The dealer suggested increasing the fuse capacity. I have been dealing with this dealer for 20 years. They have never steered me wrong.
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