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Old 01-05-2014, 10:54 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by jonrjen View Post
Just keep in mind that the Goodyear tire has a 110 psi rating, that doesn't mean that your 4 factory installed wheels mounted with the Master Track tire are rated for 110 psi.

Kind of goes back to that old saying about a chain is only as strong is it's weakest link.
A good point. So here's a generalization from the Tire and Rim Association ... 14" Alum Wheel -50 psi, 15" Alum Wheel - 80 psi, 16" Alum Wheel - 110 psi. Those numbers are cold inflation pressures.
Wheels MAY be used at loads over those numbers under certain circumstances which would be designated by the manufacturer.
Your FR wheels most likely came from Lionshead. They import from China. Bottom line is that, in The OP's case, the weak link is the axle at 6000#.
Alum wheels SHOULD have the max pressure cast into the rear of the wheel. Steel rims should be stamped with that info. A 30RL loaded will likely call for 80-85 psi in the G614.
FYI, I ran into the above info when I was pulling my 36CKTS with a single rear wheel TV that came with 17" rims. Had to upgrade to 18" rims to get G rated tires for the load. It's all
about safety. And it doesn't matter what the wheel is rated for if it has a hole in it...
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Old 01-05-2014, 11:12 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Duckogram View Post
A good point. So here's a generalization from the Tire and Rim Association ... 14" Alum Wheel -50 psi, 15" Alum Wheel - 80 psi, 16" Alum Wheel - 110 psi. Those numbers are cold inflation pressures.
Wheels MAY be used at loads over those numbers under certain circumstances which would be designated by the manufacturer.
Your FR wheels most likely came from Lionshead. They import from China. Bottom line is that, in The OP's case, the weak link is the axle at 7000#.
Alum wheels SHOULD have the max pressure cast into the rear of the wheel. Steel rims should be stamped with that info. A 30RL loaded will likely call for 80-85 psi in the G614.
FYI, I ran into the above info when I was pulling my 36CKTS with a single rear wheel TV that came with 17" rims. Had to upgrade to 18" rims to get G rated tires for the load. It's all
about safety.Attachment 44555
Good information, that's for sharing.
The wheels on our WC did come from Lionshead. The made in China as well as the max load rating are cast into the rear of the wheel. But when I had a tire removed to be repaired neither me nor the two owners of the tire/wheel shop could located any where on the wheel that gave the max PSI of the aluminum wheel.
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Old 01-06-2014, 06:33 AM   #23
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Would it pay me to upgrade to the 7,000 lb axle? Not now but when I put the goodyear's on. I wonder what that would cost? With the cheap china tires on camper would it pay to keep Nitro in the tires? I plan to put internal TPMS in the tires, I keep the air checked on the tires, before I take a trip. I have to start checking the air with a digital gauge.
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Old 01-06-2014, 08:34 AM   #24
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I wouldn't worry about upgrading the axles, nor do I think the benefits would out weight the cost to do so.

If you will simply keep your tires aired up to the proper pressure, stay at or under the tires rated speed, keep an eye on them for signs of wear/weather signs you should be just fine. Problem with most tire failure will be that the cause will not be something you can see if it has to do with internal/belt construction issues. A TPM will warn you of low or high tire pressure. If you get the TPM with temp readouts it will warn you of heat build up.

The one big thing you could do is to load you trailer the way you plan to do so when hitting the road. We're talking food, cloths, sheets, towels and the water capacity you plan to put in the fresh water tank for a normal trip. Then get the trailer weighed, try to get the weight for each tire location. If you can't get each tire weighted at least get it weighed by each side and axle weight. Once you get these weight numbers you may find that you need or want to redistribute some of the weight of the items you placed in your trailer to balance the load and not over load a given axle/tire/wheel.

If you want to stick with the factory tires rather than replace them just maintain them. After all, if you pull off the tires made in China, the replacement selection is still import tires.
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Old 01-07-2014, 05:26 AM   #25
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Would it pay me to upgrade to the 7,000 lb axle? Not now but when I put the goodyear's on. I wonder what that would cost? With the cheap china tires on camper would it pay to keep Nitro in the tires? I plan to put internal TPMS in the tires, I keep the air checked on the tires, before I take a trip. I have to start checking the air with a digital gauge.
Unless you are over GVWR I see no advantage to upgrade to 7k. If you want to
upgrade, you might want to consider going to the MorRyde Independent Suspension. As for Nitrogen use. There are Waaay to many threads on the subject. Bottom line: Don't waste your $'s.
Add on internal TPM sensors are easy.
TST 507 Internal Tire Sensors (Sold Individually) |TST Trucking Systems
If you use them you can have your tires balanced at the same time.
I use the flow thru external sensors. I was able to move them
from the Creek to the MH easily.
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:17 AM   #26
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Oh one other thing, what speed should I be going with these tires. On my trip to Yellowstone there were a few days that I was running 80mph, mostly 65 but a few times more.

Did the dealer put the spare on ?????

I personally would never pull any trailer at 80 mph, A have seen too many wrecks, 65 on most trailer tires should be max. Just my 2 cents.

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Old 01-07-2014, 07:23 AM   #27
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I went to Yellowstone in 08 and I drove 55mph and I passed 2 cars there and back, now days I run 63mph and I get passed a lot by campers. If I have to get there in a hurry I speed up. At 63mph I get passed a lot by campers, and not just going 65, I can run 75mph, it just cuts into my gas mileage.
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Old 01-07-2014, 02:40 PM   #28
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I wouldn't worry about upgrading the axles, nor do I think the benefits would out weight the cost to do so.

If you will simply keep your tires aired up to the proper pressure, stay at or under the tires rated speed, keep an eye on them for signs of wear/weather signs you should be just fine. Problem with most tire failure will be that the cause will not be something you can see if it has to do with internal/belt construction issues. A TPM will warn you of low or high tire pressure. If you get the TPM with temp readouts it will warn you of heat build up.

The one big thing you could do is to load you trailer the way you plan to do so when hitting the road. We're talking food, cloths, sheets, towels and the water capacity you plan to put in the fresh water tank for a normal trip. Then get the trailer weighed, try to get the weight for each tire location. If you can't get each tire weighted at least get it weighed by each side and axle weight. Once you get these weight numbers you may find that you need or want to redistribute some of the weight of the items you placed in your trailer to balance the load and not over load a given axle/tire/wheel.

If you want to stick with the factory tires rather than replace them just maintain them. After all, if you pull off the tires made in China, the replacement selection is still import tires.
Thanks, I will load up camper and get the campers weight some
times this spring. The first thing I am going to do this year is get TPMS, I worry about the tires. You never know when you have picked up a nail and the trailer tires are hard to see from the truck. I thought some trailer tires were not made in china, the better ones. I thought the good LT tires were not made in china. I plan to keep there tires as long as I can, but I think I will keep the N in the tires, everyone has a opinion
, its like rear ends everyones has one, its what you like, I plan to buy a Nitro kit and keep in camper.
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