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Old 05-28-2014, 09:50 AM   #1
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Tank valves, what's the secret????

Good day all!
Earlier this year my wife and I pick up a 2011 CC 34RLSA.
We bought it home this past weekend to load up items that we have stored for our past pull trailer, as we are taking it out this weekend for it's maiden voyage!
After cleaning and loading I thought I would go over a few things and make sure they are in working order...
Think things are ok other that the fans in the main living area and bedroom, think I broke them by not turning them off properly...
They still work but now make a noise :-(.
I them moved on to try to dump some grey water which we had in the tanks from de-wintering it and cleaning...
When pulling any of the valves they don't seem to come out much!
Maybe 3/4 of an inch...
We called the people we bought it from and they said they never had any issues with them.
Please advise if we are doing something wrong? (Really would like to go out this week end and be able to use the Bathroom!!!!)
Thanks!
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Old 05-28-2014, 09:54 AM   #2
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What are your tank level indicators showing?
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Old 05-28-2014, 10:25 AM   #3
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Levels are still read empty but the fresh was full and now reads 3/4 due to us using water to test the heater, add chem. to the toilet and do some cleaning...
That's why I had tried the drain valves and noticed both greys and even the black only pull out about 3/4 to an inch...
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Old 05-28-2014, 10:29 AM   #4
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Doesn't sit well with me. I would get my lubricant out and spray the stems (if you can get to them) while working them back and forth. Mt forward tanks required a slot to be cut in the membrane to access the valves. I lube mine spring and fall as a minimum.
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Old 05-28-2014, 10:47 AM   #5
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Oh, OK now I understand read your first post wrong. The gate valves should open a distance slightly more than the pipe size (3" pipe 3 to 3.5" stroke) but I guess you already knew that. If lubing the stems don't work, I can only suggest (with empty tanks) disassembling the valves (not difficult to do) inspect and look for something blocking the valve stroke then clear the blockage if it can't be cleared replace them. It is odd that they both have the same problem at the same time though, did you stroke them up and down using some force? perhaps the rubber seals are dried out if the camper has been setting for some time.
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Old 05-28-2014, 10:55 AM   #6
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I'm hesitant to say this but will anyway, how hard are you pulling? All three having the same problem at the same time is pretty far out there, I think you need to put more effort into pulling the handles.
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Old 05-28-2014, 11:06 AM   #7
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Thanks guys, will head out later today and pick up some "Valve Lube" for the tanks and maybe if the weather gods are with us this weekend will look at pulling off a panel on the underside and see "What's up"!
I will also try pulling a little harder as DDC suggested but at being 6'2" and 260 lbs, I didn't want to pull the panel off!
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Old 05-28-2014, 11:19 AM   #8
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There is stuff made from coconut oil that I put in the tanks to lubricate the valves at the beginning of each season.seems to work.

http://www.amazon.ca/Camco-40246-Dra.../dp/B000EDSSG6
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Old 05-28-2014, 11:25 AM   #9
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And just to make sure, since your gauge is reading empty, make sure they are not already pulled open by pushing all the way closed. Sure you know this but covering all the basics.

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Old 05-28-2014, 11:38 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by dcheatwood View Post
And just to make sure, since your gauge is reading empty, make sure they are not already pulled open by pushing all the way closed. Sure you know this but covering all the basics.
That was my thought too! When I picked up my RV, the PDI left all three valves fully OPEN. I didn't get around to checking them until 2 days later. At a glance, they looked fine but then I realized they were all open instead of closed!
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Old 05-29-2014, 01:17 AM   #11
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Had to google it first to find out what a 2011 CC 34RLSA is, it is one heck of a nice trailer.
If the previous owner had no issues with the tank valves then I would spray some Lithium Lube on the exposed cable and let it sit for a few minutes and just push and pull and see if it opens up. If not you might have to do the same on the valve side and give it some time, the lube needs time to do its job, the blade valves should slide almost effortless. Just don't use any sticky grease since it will pick up dust and debris and turn into a hard mess. Reg. the fans, if you need replacements I might have 3 Fantastic fans with power lid available soon that are almost brand new. We are in the Medicine Hat area.
And congratulations to your nice trailer.
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Old 05-29-2014, 05:40 AM   #12
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I had a similar problem but with the black tank. It turned out to be tolet paper causing the gate valve not to open. Not sure what could keep the gray valve from opening.
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Old 06-07-2014, 03:58 PM   #13
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UPDATE...
Will back from our "maiden voyage" and again thank all the the info above and a big thanks to DDC!
He was right...this big baby was not pulling the valves hard enough!
The valves on the 5er are a little different than the ones we had on out TT and I was afraid to pull them too hard...
We did also take the advice and place some tank conditioner in the tanks as we as lube the valve rods a little...
"So much to learn"!
Thanks again to all!
LJ
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Old 06-08-2014, 06:17 PM   #14
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Mine are very hard to operate, both closing and opening. I suppose I'll have to find a way to lubricate the cables and valves. They've been difficult since new.
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Old 06-09-2014, 09:18 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe_GA View Post
Mine are very hard to operate, both closing and opening. I suppose I'll have to find a way to lubricate the cables and valves. They've been difficult since new.
X2. I think the cables might be too long or routed improperly, but it is difficult to see back there.
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Old 06-09-2014, 10:41 PM   #16
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Don't put much faith in those tank indicators- they are almost useless and generally wrong. I haven't looked at mine in YEARS!!!
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