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Old 01-01-2015, 11:52 AM   #11
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You need the batteries installed...
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Old 01-01-2015, 01:22 PM   #12
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How about taking jumper cables and connecting to the truck battery and to the battery cables on the rig?? Frank
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Old 01-01-2015, 01:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eaglelover View Post
How about taking jumper cables and connecting to the truck battery and to the battery cables on the rig?? Frank
That may work also,
Thanks Frank
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Old 01-01-2015, 01:41 PM   #14
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I'd think that would work but the OP stated he has isolated and insulated his battery cables (IOW wrapped them in tape?). So probably too much trouble. But a good flashlight would work.
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Old 01-01-2015, 05:03 PM   #15
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Mine is in storage right now, i use the truck to power the slides, and the onboard for the interior light(also recharges the units batts .leave it running) works great. If i just try to use coach batteries to open it up for inspections and just general cks it drains them quick. But i have to have the batteries installed to and switched on for the lights. only runs the Slides
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Old 01-01-2015, 08:10 PM   #16
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using the slides w/o batteries

A master tech told me the main cause of slide failure is caused by operation with low power. IOW, low or no batteries. The converter doesn't provide enough power. They may move, but they are being damaged. Like running the A/C on only 20 amps.
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Old 01-01-2015, 10:08 PM   #17
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Any time you use any electric motor with lower than recommended voltage you run the risk of damaging it.
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Old 01-29-2015, 12:27 PM   #18
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For those of you who when in storage operate slides solely off your pigtail connected to the truck ... you're putting an insane current draw upon a 14 gage (maybe 12 gage) charging wire on your tow vehicle. That's why it is s-l-o-w moving and lights dim down. It doesn't do your pump motor any good. I'd bet you could barely touch the TV charging wire with a bare hand after opening the slides.
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