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Old 03-30-2012, 11:56 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
Just me, but before I went crazy replacing bushings I would weigh the thing.
Lou quick question my rig is still winterized so not much in it, so should I weigh it now or should I weigh it as loaded when we use it? Seems to me empty weight won't tell me if I am overloaded
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:02 PM   #32
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jalvin, since your tires are wearing on the inside, it might be that your axles have simply sagged from age and mileage. Before going to a whole bunch of trouble, just take a carpenter's level out to the camper, and see if your wheels are leaning in or not. If they are, it is your axles.
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:22 PM   #33
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jalvin, since your tires are wearing on the inside, it might be that your axles have simply sagged from age and mileage. Before going to a whole bunch of trouble, just take a carpenter's level out to the camper, and see if your wheels are leaning in or not. If they are, it is your axles.
OK I just went out and tried it if they are leaning in it doesn't seem to be much hard to tell cant quite get level on rim without tire interfering. How would you adjust camber on axles? I have thought about alignment but seems to me if axle was out then one tire would wear on inside opposite tire would wear on outside or is my thinking wrong?
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:50 PM   #34
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" I have thought about alignment but seems to me if axle was out then one tire would wear on inside opposite tire would wear on outside"
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At least it wouldn't be all 4 with the same wear.
Might just have to take it to the alignment shop.
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Old 03-30-2012, 01:53 PM   #35
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Will it make a difference weighing it today? Sure, maybe a couple hundred pounds. But at this point you really need to know what you have.
as far as alignment is concerned, that is a process of bending the axles. If the PO had hit something (large pot hole for instance) the axle tubes could be straight or have too much bow in them. A good truck/trailer shop should be able to re-arch the axles for you to the correct specs prior to installing new tires.
Your trailer is very close to mine as far as weight are concerned, so I have a really good idea of what you need to do to make it right.
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:31 PM   #36
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Lou quick question my rig is still winterized so not much in it, so should I weigh it now or should I weigh it as loaded when we use it? Seems to me empty weight won't tell me if I am overloaded
Sorry, I was out working on the camper all day.
I think you answered your own question anyway.
Loaded for camping is the only way to know what is going on.

So, LONG answer to SHORT question:

Remember it is a 2 step process.

Step 1) Weigh the combination with the truck's front wheels on one platform; the trucks rear wheels on the second platform; and the camper's wheels on the third platform. Ask the operator to record the weights and print your ticket.

Pull away from the scales and DISCONNECT the camper.

Step 2) Pull back on the scales with just your truck. Weigh the truck with the front wheels on one platform and the trucks rear wheels on the second platform. Ask the operator to print the second ticket. (The second weigh just costs a buck at a CAT Scale.)

Hook back up and drive home with your two tickets.

What do you do with the tickets? Glad you asked...

1) Subtract the Truck only ticket total weight from the truck's MAX gross weight to find allowable PAYLOAD.

2) Check the combination weight of truck and camper to make sure it is less than the truck's MAX COMBINED WEIGHT RATING

3) ADD the front and rear axle weights of the Combined ticket to find the trucks GROSS weight and check to make sure it is less that the trucks Maximum Gross weight.

4) Subtract the trucks unhitched weight from (1) from the actual gross weight (from 3) to get the actual PIN weight.

5) Add the pin weight (from 4) to the camper's "connected" wheels weight from the 3rd platform to get the actual camper weight.

Compare the actual camper's weight to the camper's max gross weight from the yellow sticker on the camper (you may have to add the "UVW to the posted camper payload to get the max gross weight of the camper).

Take the camper's wheel loading (platform 3 weight) and divide by 4 (or the number of wheels the camper has) to get the actual tire load. With this number you can tailor the tire pressures to exactly the amount needed for 100% tread/road contact per your manufacturer's tire pressure chart.

Other cool things you can get are the actual axle loadings of your truck and camper. You can compare the actual load to the axle's rated load.
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Old 03-31-2012, 04:13 PM   #37
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So Jalvin, did you get it weighed today between downpours?
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Old 03-31-2012, 05:09 PM   #38
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So Jalvin, did you get it weighed today between downpours?
no, scales are closed on sat. couldn't fit in work and play yesterday + there hasn't been much between on the downpours.
I did talk to alignment guy yesterday am going to take it in monday or tues to have checked. will weight when I do that as scales are on the way
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Old 03-31-2012, 07:48 PM   #39
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So I just found cedar creek owners forum and going by posts on it the problems I am having are very common on CC trailers some owners went to mor- ride some heavier axles some just the wet kit. Some food for thought I guess
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:24 AM   #40
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Glad you found us. Since your weights are very similar to mine, once you do the wet bolt kit, and the equalflex or morride equalizer and an alignment I think you will be good to go. CC's are very heavy for their size though so next step will be brake inspection.
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