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Old 07-23-2014, 11:24 AM   #11
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Its not unusual to find an open wire connection to the heater. Poor connections and/or wire crimps from the factory that pull apart on the road. I have camped with several families who said that the heater never worked on ac. I made new friends in minutes with a crimping tool.
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Old 07-23-2014, 11:32 AM   #12
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I hope its something that simple. Ours has never moved from our seasonal yet.

Is there anyway to turn down the water temp on the gas WH? The wife says it's to hot on the gas operation. The AC was just right. Never fouled with this WH before.
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Old 07-23-2014, 11:59 AM   #13
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The temp is set by a fixed sensor. Its probably 140. This makes sure there is enough hot water available from a small tank. Everyone complains its too hot.
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Old 07-26-2014, 06:25 AM   #14
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BoatDude - did you find the problem? I am curious because our last few trips mine would work for 1-2 days on AC and then quit. Replacing the element fixes it. Gas works fine.
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Old 07-26-2014, 06:30 AM   #15
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BoatDude - did you find the problem? I am curious because our last few trips mine would work for 1-2 days on AC and then quit. Replacing the element fixes it. Gas works fine.
Going through elements is not normal.

Is your voltage too high? - Incorrect voltage can damage the element.

Is your water supply constant? Letting the water heater empty with the element on will burn it up.

Do you have acid well water? How is your anode?
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Old 07-26-2014, 06:59 AM   #16
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I hope its something that simple. Ours has never moved from our seasonal yet.

Is there anyway to turn down the water temp on the gas WH? The wife says it's to hot on the gas operation. The AC was just right. Never fouled with this WH before.
Most wh come with 130 d limits, someone could of changed the 12 v limit to 140d. Only way I know is to check the part no. as the ones I have do not have a temp stamped on them. You can order 120d, 130d & 140d limits for 12v and 110.
I changed both of ours to 140d as we use less hot water.
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Old 07-26-2014, 07:04 AM   #17
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If I missed it forgive me.
One season used is one season it could fail.
While you have the tank apart replacing and checking parts I would suggest you flush the tank out.

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Old 07-26-2014, 07:04 AM   #18
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If it is too hot you can mix at the faucet (My technique is open the hot water valve full and crack open the cold water valve till the temp is good for me), or crack the winterizing bypass valve to mix cold water at the hot water heater.
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Old 07-26-2014, 07:10 AM   #19
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Hot water tank

I too had a problem with my hot water tank not heating water on 120 VAC. Make sure you check the electric plug for the H/W tank did not get bumped and unplugged. Also check the outside 120 VAC switch to make sure it is on?? Mine became corroded and had to flip it back and forth to get 120VAC to work. Try this after all the other suggestions have been checked.
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Old 07-26-2014, 08:37 AM   #20
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We've been running it on gas this week. We go back today...so I will get a meter and troubleshoot next week when we return.

I was looking to see where the electric element is....I think it's accessible from the outside. There is a metal black cover at the lower area of the WH. I plan to order a new element and switch when I get home. Just in case. I hope it's an easy replacement. ...it looks difficult to access the back of the WH. And tips on replacing the element? Is there a gasket....etc?
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