What Happens When A Ram On The Hydraulic Level Up Goes Out?

[ionasilverback]

I do not have a problem with my hydraulic level system (yet) and hope I never do but what happens to the trailer if one ram goes out? I see posts on rv forums about an o-ring failure or a hose failure and I wonder what effect this has on the trailer. If you lose a front ram does the nose of the trailer drop to the ground or on the truck bed? Or does the system have a built in "auto-brake" function. If you lose hydraulic pressure to the ram how can you, or do you, raise or lower the ram to set the trailer off the truck or hitch up to get repair service?
Just curious about this since I always try to have an idea what to do when things happen while on the road.

[Jim34RL]

Without a hydraulic schematic it is hard to answer your questions! I would direct these questions to Cedar Creek sales people for a proper answer. Otherwise you will get a lot of speculation and this is what happened to a neighbor and or friend. If you are looking for facts than I would contact Cedar Creek.

I am a retired engineer who spent 20 years in hydraulic design and I have no worry on my level up system. I don't worry about items I have no control over and when it fails and all mechanical items will fail at sometime I have a very handy tool to fix the item. It is called a cell phone and charge card.

[wls]

not sure if this is what the original poster is asking. But my brother owns a DRV, the guy told him, when he is hitching up to the truck, after the king pin is hooked, make sure and use the auto retract.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by ionasilverback

I do not have a problem with my hydraulic level system (yet) and hope I never do but what happens to the trailer if one ram goes out? I see posts on rv forums about an o-ring failure or a hose failure and I wonder what effect this has on the trailer. If you lose a front ram does the nose of the trailer drop to the ground or on the truck bed? Or does the system have a built in "auto-brake" function. If you lose hydraulic pressure to the ram how can you, or do you, raise or lower the ram to set the trailer off the truck or hitch up to get repair service?
Just curious about this since I always try to have an idea what to do when things happen while on the road.

I don't know never of heard of that problem, but even if you blew a hose or a seal it would still hold until it drained your reservoir. I know of no safety system on them, I doubt if the valve would lock out, maybe someone will enlighten us. Good question

[MeepMeep]

Originally Posted by ionasilverback

I do not have a problem with my hydraulic level system (yet) and hope I never do but what happens to the trailer if one ram goes out? I see posts on rv forums about an o-ring failure or a hose failure and I wonder what effect this has on the trailer. If you lose a front ram does the nose of the trailer drop to the ground or on the truck bed? Or does the system have a built in "auto-brake" function. If you lose hydraulic pressure to the ram how can you, or do you, raise or lower the ram to set the trailer off the truck or hitch up to get repair service?
Just curious about this since I always try to have an idea what to do when things happen while on the road.

Unfortunately, I have personally experienced a full level-up failure due to a failed hydraulic pump. It happened while trying to disconnect from the tow vehicle. We thought we were stuck for the duration, but a local RV tech showed us how to use a drill to run the pump. As far as a blown hose situation, I suspect you’d be stuck until the hose is replaced

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by MeepMeep

Unfortunately, I have personally experienced a full level-up failure due to a failed hydraulic pump. It happened while trying to disconnect from the tow vehicle. We thought we were stuck for the duration, but a local RV tech showed us how to use a drill to run the pump. As far as a blown hose situation, I suspect you’d be stuck until the hose is replaced

I didn't know you could do that to the pump, to the valves yes, how do you do it to the pump? Thanks ahead of time

[MeepMeep]

Originally Posted by Witch Doctor

I didn't know you could do that to the pump, to the valves yes, how do you do it to the pump? Thanks ahead of time

There’s a place on the back of the pump ( it may be under a sticker ) where you can insert a 1/4” drive. Then it’s just a matter of running the drill forward or reverse, depending on which direction you want the level up or slides to go. Be sure to use your individual slide isolation valves so you’re only running one slide at a time - or you’ll burn up your drill (ask me how I know [emoji37])

[Witch Doctor]

Thanks for the directions good to know, I'll have to file that away to some empty brain cells.

[mbbutler]

Originally Posted by MeepMeep

There’s a place on the back of the pump ( it may be under a sticker ) where you can insert a 1/4” drive. Then it’s just a matter of running the drill forward or reverse, depending on which direction you want the level up or slides to go. Be sure to use your individual slide isolation valves so you’re only running one slide at a time - or you’ll burn up your drill (ask me how I know [emoji37])

X2 Now a proud owner or a new Bosch 20v drill.

[mbbutler]

Originally Posted by mbbutler

X2 Now a proud owner or a new Bosch 20v drill.

Also use low speed screw driver setting #1 and not drill speed #2 unless you like to see smoke coming out of your hydraulic pump windings.

[dieselguy]

mbbutler ... please explain your thoughts on burn up windings while using a drill motor in emergency situations????? There's no voltage going to the pump motor when using an auxiliary drill motor.

[dalford]

Originally Posted by MeepMeep

There’s a place on the back of the pump ( it may be under a sticker ) where you can insert a 1/4” drive. Then it’s just a matter of running the drill forward or reverse, depending on which direction you want the level up or slides to go. Be sure to use your individual slide isolation valves so you’re only running one slide at a time - or you’ll burn up your drill (ask me how I know [emoji37])

I think you also have to override the level up valve by using an Allen wrench. Look at your Lippert manual and it will tell you about overriding the valve. There are valves for the slide and valves for the level up.

When using the system normally when you press the level up buttons or the slide button the controller sends a signal to the correct hydraulic valve to route the fluid to the correct hydraulic rams. When manually operating motor you need to override the valve for what you want to operate.

[Scrapper]

Mind you, I don't have a hydraulic system on my TT.

I do have a lifetime of experience working with hydraulic cylinders and hoses on machinery. I have replaced both several times in the last 53 years.

Cylinder seals will hold up extremely well under conditions where they are not subject to abrasion. Leaks around the seals will start slowly, then worsen over time. Always look for any dust sticking to the cylinder. The dust will stick to oil leaking from the seal and when you see it the dust will be moist with oil. If you see oil leaking around the cylinder then it's time to have the cylinder rebuilt. Take it to a hydraulic shop to have it repaired. They will inspect the ram (the part that moves up & down) for scratches or gouges in the chrome finish. Any found can be repaired at the shop before reassembly. Some scratches or gouges may cost more to repair than to just replace with a new cylinder.

Hoses are a different matter. They can fail for several reasons, from abrasions, twisting, getting pinched, failure of the crimped fitting on the hose, or the fitting getting bumped or pulled on. Many times they fail because of age. Never try to repair a hose, always replace with a new one. Try to replace them with at least a 2 braid or better hose. Hoses are easy to find at Tractor Supply, Farm & Fleet, Fleet Farm or NAPA Auto Parts. If you have an odd sized hose then a hydraulic shop can make one up for you. Try to stay away from the vinyl hoses.

When you replace a hose make sure that you don't let it get twisted. Use two wrenches where needed and if the hose fitting uses an o-ring, always replace it with a new one, usually with a neoprene o-ring.

Hope this helps.

[Scrapper]

One other thing I forgot to mention before, the seal on the ram will not suddenly blow out. They will always show signs of leakage first.

[rjshiflet]

I keep a copy of the Lippert Master Owner's Manual for Towables on my "Dropbox" account - which means I have a copy on my laptop, my iPhone and my iPad at any time, any place. It's full of great information including the tactics discussed here:

https://www.lci1.com/support-master-manuals-6c6 - and then click the TOWABLE button.

And Dropbox has a FREE version you can download here: https://db.tt/AIO81vOF8B

[Rich5117]

Unfortunately I have had a single ram failure, a severe leak from the bottom seal. It happened in Florida. We were moving to another park. Managed to get all legs up. I stopped at a local hydraulic shop they looked at ram they could not fix, but we're able to put together a adapter fitting to bypass the bad leg. Cost was around $50. I now keep this adapter in my tool box hope it never happens again. Leg was replaced under warranty, but it had to be shipped and installed by a mobile tech.

[Witch Doctor]

Wow, that's bad, must not have been a front landing leg, makes me think what would a person do if a front one fails at a CG already set up. If your still on the hitch fine, but if not what would happen to the camper? Can one hold the front end up?

[ionasilverback]

"If your still on the hitch fine, but if not what would happen to the camper? Can one hold the front end up?"

That is my original question....so far nobody has responded with that particular information so I am assuming it is not an issue.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by ionasilverback

"If your still on the hitch fine, but if not what would happen to the camper? Can one hold the front end up?"

That is my original question....so far nobody has responded with that particular information so I am assuming it is not an issue.

I think I will call Lippert and get the question answered, stay tuned[emoji196]

[ionasilverback]

I have been going to call Lippert but was interested in what the rv community had experienced/solved. I am aware of the emergency use of drill/drivers to deploy/retract hydraulic rams but was curious about how the rams stayed extended after the hydraulic pressure loss. I look forward to you sharing the info from your contact with Lippert.