Which Connection Does What?

mekkerlc · 05-10-2016, 08:44 PM

New-to-us Silverback 35QB4, and I finally got the chance to start de-winterizing today. I drained all of the pink-stuff through the low point drains.
I then started to 'figure' out the plumbing system.

First off - I can't figure out how many tanks I have. There are three valves in the docking area (Black, Bath, Galley)...then there are two valves on the exterior through the underbelly behind the tires (Black, Grey). I assume five tanks. But on the control panel, it lists Black, Grey 1, and Grey 2. Then, there is a tank 'status' box in the rear 1/2 bath. Lastly, there are only three tank vents on the roof.
The five tank dump valves do not move in and out easily...how much pressure/force is safe for these?

Second, I cannot figure out the two water inlets with white caps in the picture. One has a sticker above it about Sewer Tank Flusher. Am I to assume both white caps are tank flushers? Or just the one the sticker is above? I traced both water lines and they both lead up into the wall above the basement storage (odd). And the white Potable sticker above that...is it a general notice? Or is it supposed to be over the FW tank inlet?

Lastly, the fresh water tank. I belelive I finally figured out how to fill it after fiddling around a while. The blue valve needs to be turned to 'Gravity', which means the pump will be used...and the external water supply is diverted to the fresh water tank. Correct?
And to empty the FW tank...I opened what I believed to be the FW Drain Valve...however, water only comes out in slow drips. What am I missing?

And, next to what I believe to be the FW Drain Valve, is another tube, with no valve or plug. Any idea what that is?

I hope someone out there has a similar set-up...as I cannot come across someone else with the same model as this. Thank you thank you!!

dmdrj5 · 05-10-2016, 09:13 PM

OK Luke and Carolyn,

That is a lot of questions. If your control panel only lists 3 tanks, then that is what you probably have. I haven't seen an RV with 5 tanks before. Usually one grey tank is for kitchen and one for bath and washer if you have one. Dump valves are usually cranky. Try squirting some WD-40 in and it might help a bit.

One of those white caps is definitely your black tank flush. Maybe you have a grey tank flush as well? Do not know why potable water would be needed for flushing. Probably just placed label in wrong position.

Gravity feed fills your fw tank and city feed runs directly through your lines.

Are you sure the fw tank was full when you went to drain it? You can try opening a faucet.

The tube next to the drain tube is your fw tank overflow for filling it.

Hope I got to all of your questions.

Good luck,
Don

dieselguy · 05-10-2016, 11:13 PM

Holy Smoke ... didn't you do a PDI and have one of the dealer's techs walk you thru basic operations? Sorry I don't mean to be demeaning. First the low point drains do not drain every little bit of fluid from the water lines ... be sure and flush the lines well by running water thru every faucet, shower, and stool. Looking at your floor plan, you probably have 5 tanks. The usual 3 up front grey (bath tank), black (stool tank), grey (kitchen galley tank). Since you have a rear bathroom, you will have a black and grey tank for it as well with their own monitor. You may even have a second sewer hose hookup back there. Just guessing, the two white water connections are both flush since you have 2 black tanks. The black colored connection just below your valve that switches from city to gravity is your fresh water hook up. As said, the two hoses below your fresh water tank are the drain (with valve) and the tank vent/overflow. You have to have a couple of gallon of water in the fresh water tank to have any appreciable drainage as the drain is not necessarily the exact low point. Just to the right of your water filter are two valves. In their current positions you are ready to normally use your fivers water system. With the lower one shut off and the upper one turned on, you are in water heater bypass mode and are ready to winterize. The hose going in to the wall off the upper valve pulls out and goes in your antifreeze jug(s) As for the red battery cutoff switch ... if you can pull the red switch lever out of the switch, you have the battery shut off from the fiver. If you can't pull the key out, you are ready to use your campers 12VDC electrical

dieselguy · 05-11-2016, 07:54 AM

PS ... even if you have the battery cutoff switch in the off position say in storage ... parasitic drag from circuit boards and your CO2 detector will suck a battery down in as little as a week. Oddly enough the main disconnect does not shut off power to absolutely everything. Many of us just install a battery cutoff switch to either wire straight off the battery ... I won't get in to the pros and cons of which wire to switch (+ or -).

ScottBrownstein · 05-11-2016, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselguy

PS ... even if you have the battery cutoff switch in the off position say in storage ... parasitic drag from circuit boards and your CO2 detector will suck a battery down in as little as a week. Oddly enough the main disconnect does not shut off power to absolutely everything. Many of us just install a battery cutoff switch to either wire straight off the battery ... I won't get in to the pros and cons of which wire to switch (+ or -).

I believe that manufacturers wire the batteries that way since it is some sort of safety code. The CO detector apparently has to be hard wired to the battery and on many RVs, the steps will continue to open and close even though the main switch is off. Perhaps there are also differences between TTs and RVs since there are a bunch of fuses on the BCC that are always hot as well.

mekkerlc · 05-11-2016, 09:38 AM

Thanks for all the information dieselguy...seems all my assumptions are correct!
There was no PDI because I bought it via private seller...and that seller only owned it for one year and didn't know anything about it! They used it as a seasonal for one season...and had it moved and set-up and winterized by someone else. So no help whatsoever from them unfortunately.

Regarding the FW drain...I checked it before I left for work this morning...and it is still dripping slowly. Could tell it was dripping all night based on the water on the driveway. So I am thinking there is a blockage in that line somewhere. I'll try and blow out the line, assuming the air should come out the overflow tube.

Oakman · 05-11-2016, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselguy

PS ... even if you have the battery cutoff switch in the off position say in storage ... parasitic drag from circuit boards and your CO2 detector will suck a battery down in as little as a week. Oddly enough the main disconnect does not shut off power to absolutely everything. Many of us just install a battery cutoff switch to either wire straight off the battery ... I won't get in to the pros and cons of which wire to switch (+ or -).

On my Silverback the cutoff switch in the OFF position cuts off the draw on the battery with absolutely no parasitic draws. My cutoff switch must be in the ON for 12 volt power to go to the trailer for lights, fridge, etc. My trailer was in storage for three months and still had a full charge.

The landing gear and I believe the slideouts are hard wired to the battery but neither are parasitic draws.

**Iwritecode** · 05-11-2016, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmdrj5

I haven't seen an RV with 5 tanks before.

Sabre 36QBOK has 5 tanks. 2 Black, 3 grey.

Just an FYI.

dieselguy · 05-11-2016, 10:46 AM

Bob ... your are fortunate with your 29RL. As with anything that comes from FR or other manufacturers, it seems no 2 are wired, plumbed, or constructed near the same. My CO2 detector, my level up, and my antenna booster, and 12 VDC power plug in basement as well as the slides stay powered up cut-off switch or not. I have 3-4 camping acquaintances that have FR and Keystone products that the battery cut-off switch doesn't cut off everything as well. As I mentioned, we just put a cut-off switch right on one of the battery cables otherwise our batteries won't last a week in storage.

redlinmktg · 05-21-2016, 01:49 PM

I did not spend the time reading through the responses so if this is redundant...I am sorry. I have this exact same unit so here is the outlay.

1. The 2 inlets with the caps are your tank flushes for the 2 lack tanks. There is one for the front bath and 1 for the rear tank. Be sure to monitor "very closely" when using since this process does add water to the tank and will create back pressure if you are not careful. Could be a real mess.

2. The 2 handles in the rear are for the rear black and grey tanks. Of course one is for the toilet and the other is where your sink in the bathroom and the outdoor kitchen drains into.

As far as draining the winterizer, you will need to hook up the city connection and toggle through the bypasses until clean water is observed flowing from both hot and cold low water points. Be sure to turn your bypasses back to the correct position to allow water to flow through the system.

You should have the following tanks: 1- fresh tank, 2 Black (front and rear), 2 grey (front and rear) and 1 galley.

I hope this helps

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