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Old 03-17-2013, 10:31 AM   #61
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LEDs
Light color is measured in degrees kelvin. The highher you go the 'whiter' the light color. Go too high and it llooks blue. That said, Warm White (softer) is around 2600-4500K and Soft White is around 5600-6500K. Here is good site for our halogen replacements. I have ordered 20 and 10 watt equivalent replacements of both tempsK and will post results.
Http://m4products.com our overhead replacement is a g4.
I'm interested in what you think. I read that to fit these LEDs you have to drill out the heat shield to make them fit. You bought the ones labeled micro with 9 LEDs each I assume, they are marked Warm Light and sell for $7.99 each?

Roll
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:08 PM   #62
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ordered LEDs

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I'm interested in what you think. I read that to fit these LEDs you have to drill out the heat shield to make them fit. You bought the ones labeled micro with 9 LEDs each I assume, they are marked Warm Light and sell for $7.99 each?

Roll
Roll,
I ordered 1 of each Warm White and Cool White, 10 & 20 watt equivalents. The 20 watts are 1 1/2 inches long. The 10 watts are 1 1/4 inches long. I measured my lights. I have 1 1/2 inches at the reflector. Worst case I will have to take out the reflector for the 20 watt (2 screws). I want it brighter in the kitchen/dining area so I think I will use the 20 watt equiv's. Livingroom I will probably do 10 watt. Now what I like about these units is that they have 10-30 volt circuiotry so they will not be effected by D.C. voltage fluctuations/levels in the RV. Not all LEDs have this built in. They are also dimmable, also not found in all LEDs. A LED dimmer switch would be so easy to install. I did not order micro LEDs. They are 1 inch long. A quick disclaimer here....all measurements are 'plus isolator' also length is diameter since they are all circular. I will post results and possibly pictures.
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:48 PM   #63
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OOPS! Forgot to mention m4 products light 1156-4-HP-BW+ is a reading lite replacement. It only comes in bright white, but then if you are reading that is what you should use to avoid eye strain. It is a direct replacement for among others the 1139IR lamp which is in my 2013 Encounter 37TZ (3 of 'em).
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:57 PM   #64
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OOPS! Forgot to mention m4 products light 1156-4-HP-BW+ is a reading lite replacement. It only comes in bright white, but then if you are reading that is what you should use to avoid eye strain. It is a direct replacement for among others the 1139IR lamp which is in my 2013 Encounter 37TZ (3 of 'em).
I think I have 5. Two over the couch; one over the attached island in the kitchen; and two over the head of the bed. I'm thinking I have two over the desk in the living room as well, but I can't be sure they are exaclty the same type of light and so didn't count them. The desk lights may be puck lights, can't seem to recall.

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Old 03-17-2013, 04:34 PM   #65
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Roll,
OK, ya got my curiosity up. Braved the sleet and went out and inventoried lights. 37TZ; 2 two tube flourescents in bedroom and 2 1139IR reading lamps. The lou has 4 wedge slot bulbs (3 over sink, 1 in shower). The dining table fixture has 4 wedge slot. Over the sink is a two tube flourescent. Over the stove are two lites integrated into the convection microwave (AC). The attached island is an 1139IR reading lamp. Over the livingroom desk 1 wedge base bulb. Over couch 2 1139IR reading lamps. The halogens in the living area and kitchen/dining are standard sized BUT the two in the cockpit (map lites) are micro halogen)....whew! I will use the halogens converted to leds for spares for the basement lites (if that is what they are, if not they will be wedge based, and I'll have the ones from the coach). If you order 10 or more leds from M4 products they give you a 10% discount. Looks like I will qualify.
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:51 PM   #66
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Darn! One of these days I'll get everything in one post. If your shower and desk are like mine (you might have one or two of these go6car) M4 Products Double Aluminum Plate unit would be a good fit. It comes in both Warm and Bright White.
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:43 PM   #67
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Yet another post...it might interest readers of this post to subscribe to some neat newsletters about rv'ing (of course you may already be subscribing)
Go to http:rvtravel.com select an edition to read and look for a box that offers subscriptions to news letters then follow directions. There is the weekly that covers latest news and other items of interest. A daily tips newsletter, neat rv accessories etc. A lot of good reading in there. Just a suggestion.
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:28 AM   #68
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Those are great newsletters - I subscribe to everything! LOL!

Very interested in the whole LED replacement - Please let us know how you make out. I definitely want warm LEDs for everything (I have a real problem with that bluer-colored light; also am overly sensitive to glare. The warmer spectrum helps a lot. I even have a program on my home PC that "warms" up the background whites which helps me out a lot).

I keep getting more and more confused when reading about all the LED options out there, and how these retro-fit into the halogen puck lights and what you're supposed to watch out for, etc. I'm hoping for just a simple solution (i.e., buy this light; screw it in, done.).
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Old 03-18-2013, 12:30 PM   #69
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I'm hoping for just a simple solution (i.e., buy this light; screw it in, done.).
I guess Go-six and I are alike. Regarding above.....same here.

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Old 03-18-2013, 08:12 PM   #70
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When it comes to LEDs there are some things that are VERY nice to have. They are diodes so they can be polarity sensitive + and - are important, they are DC voltage sensitive, too low they fail to conduct current, too high and they have a shortened life span and generate more heat (remember, in an earlier post I said heat was the enemy). They do generate some heat so heat sinks are important to cooling. Among all the sites that I researched M4 products impressed me the most. Their units have on board circuitry that automatically handle polarity. Their circuitry also handles an impressive range of DC voltage 10V to 30V, I think they have some sort of shunting circuit that handles the over voltage spikes. I am researching their LED florescent tube replacement devices. Some sites warned that their units generated heat that needed to be handled if DC voltage goes much above 12 volts...that is caused by the unit not being able to handle spikes in the DC voltage. The dual aluminum plate wedge base LED (like our desk and shower unit) has an air gap between the LEDs and the substrate that has to be attached to the fixture. Other units I have seen attach directly to the fixture with no air gap so the heat generated by the LEDs has to be absorbed by the fixture, which also weakens the glue bond...not good. If you look at the wedge base units that replace the 921's (found in our bathroom lites and the dining table Lite) have an aluminum substrate to handle the LED heat. Others I have seen use a plastic or varnished cardboard, not good for heat dissipation. Over engineering in this case is good. So when you look at other LED units, look deep at the construction...in the long run life of unit depends on how it handles heat. Now for the halogen replacement units, I was not able to find out if our bulbs were 10 or 20 watt. If they are 10 watts then you should order the 10 watt equivalent units, unless you want the area brighter and then I would recommend you install a dimmer...oh yeah, not all LEDs are dimable so pay attention to that little feature. Gosh, so simple,yet complex. Any questions, just ask, if I do not know the answer I will find it..I have some amazing work resources to draw on...I am the ACINT technology integrator at ONI..they buy me toys to play with...the fun part of my job...the not so fun part is making all the crap they buy work!
Denis
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