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Old 02-25-2017, 03:59 PM   #1
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2016 Coachmen Freelander 21RS Electrical Block Diagram

I have attached my own electrical block diagram for the 2016 Coachman Freelander 21RS. Disclaimer: I could be wrong. I have concocted this from a few weeks experience with my rig and the need to be able to understand what is going on and plan upgrades. Also, I was surprised that the slide motors were on the battery side of the battery switch. They are still hooked up though the battery switch is off. I found this out by accident. I also became aware of the engine alternator connection to the house batteries. My diagram shows an inverter which will be an upgrade. I would appreciate any worthwhile critique of this. In particular, I have not traced the routing of the Furrion 10A solar connector. I suppose that it is routed directly to the batteries through a 7A fuse or breaker. I would appreciate any input.
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File Type: pdf 21RS wiring.pdf (346.9 KB, 1928 views)
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Old 02-27-2017, 05:53 AM   #2
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I have attached my own electrical block diagram for the 2016 Coachmen Freelander 21RS. Disclaimer: I could be wrong. I have concocted this from a few week’s experience with my rig and the need to be able to understand what is going on and plan upgrades. Also, I was surprised that the slide motors were on the battery side of the battery switch. They are still hooked up though the battery switch is off. I found this out by accident. I also became aware of the engine alternator connection to the house batteries. My diagram shows an inverter which will be an upgrade. I would appreciate any worthwhile critique of this. In particular, I have not traced the routing of the Furrion 10A solar connector. I suppose that it is routed directly to the batteries through a 7A fuse or breaker. I would appreciate any input.
Bentspoon
Looks about right. Did you try to contact FR for a copy of the wiring diagram?

Yes the Furrion Solar input is fused and runs directly to the battery.

Aaron
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Old 03-01-2017, 03:43 PM   #3
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Nice diagram, thanks for sharing. I have a Leprechaun so may be different but I have an electric heater/fireplace that shares 120VAC breaker with combo gas/electric hot water heater. You do not separately show HWH so wondered if yours is gas only (with 12VDC igniter circuit). It makes no sense to me that the "battery disconnect" switch does not completely isolate the house batteries. Also, do you know if your rig has some sort of isolater installed that would prevent draining engine battery while battery disconnect switch is in closed position? I am trying to figure this out about my rig. Owner's manual is pretty lean on content/detail. Thanks again for sharing.
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Old 03-01-2017, 07:07 PM   #4
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Nice diagram, thanks for sharing. I have a Leprechaun so may be different but I have an electric heater/fireplace that shares 120VAC breaker with combo gas/electric hot water heater. You do not separately show HWH so wondered if yours is gas only (with 12VDC igniter circuit). It makes no sense to me that the "battery disconnect" switch does not completely isolate the house batteries. Also, do you know if your rig has some sort of isolater installed that would prevent draining engine battery while battery disconnect switch is in closed position? I am trying to figure this out about my rig. Owner's manual is pretty lean on content/detail. Thanks again for sharing.
On my Concord there is a relay to cut power to the water heater when the fireplace is in use. On every motor home that I have ever worked on there has been a battery isolator that keeps the house batteries from draining the engine start battery, they allow power from the alternator to feed back to the house batteries when the engine is running. They do occasionally fail, usually in an open mode which means the power won't flow in either direction. In addition there is usually a momentary switch somewhere in the circuit that will allow you to connect the coach batteries to the engine battery to help with the starting. Typically it is a silver push button on the dash within reach of the driver.

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Old 03-02-2017, 01:05 AM   #5
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Other thought on the diagram

Thanks for the replies. I am still learning. I am an avid manual reader. I read em like mystery novels. I have to agree with Gman2 - very little plot in the manuals. Re: heaters and such. Everything in my rig that utilizes heat (or cold) is propane. That is why I used the term "Electric Ignition LP devices" on that block. The 12 volt use is ancillary. Even the fridge uses limited AC when available. Re: alternator block. There was mention of a battery isolator on the line with the vehicle alternator. I can't imagine that one wouldn't be there so it is assumed. However I wonder if the alternator block is on the other side of the battery switch. I can't test that until I get her out of storage. I am still trying to understand the electrical position of the slide motors. Not sure why one would do that.
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Old 03-02-2017, 02:14 AM   #6
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That's pretty neat. THANKS

The site team also merged the duplicate threads you had on this subject.
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Old 03-04-2017, 06:41 AM   #7
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I can't comment on your rig exactly. I have a 2009 Freelander with 2 slides and both are after the battery switch. All this wiring is in the battery box under my step. The feed goes from the b+ to the disconnect and back to a buss bar in the battery box where it is divided to generator start, invertor in/out, & slides. Also the coach battery is connected at that point thru a separate solenoid to charge the house battery when the engine is running. This solenoid is also the "emergency start feature" That allows you to connect the house batteries to the couch batteries to help start the engine.

Having the slides hooked up before the switch is to me a Friday afternoon or Monday morning situation at the Factory. It is against everything that should be. Also may be previous owner,etc.
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Old 03-04-2017, 07:53 AM   #8
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Thanks Wahoonc. I found the "isolator" relay in footwell battery box. I do not have the battery boost switch or button in my rig apparently. I guess for extended parked time at home, between trips, I would need to connect a battery tender trickle charger to my engine battery to maintain it's charge? I do not think I have a cutout relay for fireplace/hwh. My HWH seems to work with fireplace on or off, doesn't seem to care. I have so much to learn and really appreciate the sharing of knowledge here.
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Old 03-04-2017, 04:26 PM   #9
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Thanks Wahoonc. I found the "isolator" relay in footwell battery box. I do not have the battery boost switch or button in my rig apparently. I guess for extended parked time at home, between trips, I would need to connect a battery tender trickle charger to my engine battery to maintain it's charge? I do not think I have a cutout relay for fireplace/hwh. My HWH seems to work with fireplace on or off, doesn't seem to care. I have so much to learn and really appreciate the sharing of knowledge here.
I would bet on their being a relay for the FP and WH, they are both wired on the same 15 amp circuit on mine. If they are on separate circuits you won't have the relay.

I have never seen a gas powered motorhome without the "boost" button, but I guess there is always a first time.

I would suggest the Trik-L-Start to keep the engine battery charged up, especially if you are plugging in at home.

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Old 03-18-2017, 06:20 PM   #10
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I would bet on their being a relay for the FP and WH, they are both wired on the same 15 amp circuit on mine. If they are on separate circuits you won't have the relay.

I have never seen a gas powered motorhome without the "boost" button, but I guess there is always a first time.

I would suggest the Trik-L-Start to keep the engine battery charged up, especially if you are plugging in at home.

Aaron
Update: There is definitely a cutout for FP when EWH is on in my rig. I did not look for the relay yet but I know it exists. I love both elec WH and FP in cold weather. Also, definitely no "boost" button on my rig. Would be easy enough to add but hope I never need it. I did get the Trik-L-Start and installed it today. Thanks.
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