97 Catalina furnace

[Basballace]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Check wiring diagram in the PDF I provided.

Find the 6-pin connector at the furnace. .

I can see the 6 pin connector but can’t reach it lol anyway to pull the furnace out without unhooking a bunch of stuff? Also did you see the 2 blue wires posted befor? Those come out of the 6 pin and are cut. One has a wire wire on the end and the other has a red wire which is hot 13v

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Basballace

I can see the 6 pin connector but can’t reach it lol anyway to pull the furnace out without unhooking a bunch of stuff? Also did you see the 2 blue wires posted befor? Those come out of the 6 pin and are cut. One has a wire wire on the end and the other has a red wire which is hot 13v

If the two blue wires coming out of the 6-pin are the same connections as the two blue wires going into the 6-pin at #2 and #5, you should be able to short them together. It doesn't matter if they are shorted at the connector or at the ends, provided they are the "same" wires.

But if you don't have 12VDC to the 6-pin connector, or if the circuit breaker is tripped, shorting the two wires together won't do anything, because you won't have any power to the furnace.

UPDATE: I just realized that there MAY be an On/Off switch. It's shown on the wiring diagram just to the left of the circuit breaker. There's a note that says it MAY be combined with the circuit breaker. If you have the switch, it may not be located next to the circuit breaker, although it most likely will be. It's probably located in a "easy" to access spot. So check that out.

[Basballace]

I’m a idiot.. they are marked what they are. One is thermostat+ and the other is thermostat. The on/off switch is on. Are those the 2 wires that should be connected?

[B and B]

Originally Posted by Basballace

I’m a idiot.. they are marked what they are. One is thermostat+ and the other is thermostat. The on/off switch is on. Are those the 2 wires that should be connected?

Yes they should. it 12 volts jut blow a little Fuse if you are wrong.

[Basballace]

It turns on for about 1/2 a second then blows the ODS fuse

[rockfordroo]

What do you mean by "ODS" fuse? Is this the fuse at your TT's power center?

[Basballace]

Yeah that’s it. Yes it’s the main fuse panel under the stove

[rockfordroo]

Did the fan motor come up to speed before the fuse blew?

[Basballace]

I don’t believe so. It happens pretty quick

[rockfordroo]

So something is shorting. If the fan starts, it sounds like it might be closing the sail switch, then something in the switch or downstream is then shorting out. Could be the sail switch itself or the limit switch, the gas valve, or the ignition control unit.

Do you have a multi-meter?

[Basballace]

Yeah I do

[rockfordroo]

This is difficult from afar, but here are some thoughts.

1. I'd pull the two red leads off the gas valve and measure resistance across where the red lead was plugged onto the gas valve and the yellow lead. The valve has two separate coils, one on each side, so you need to measure resistance from the red to yellow on the left and again on the right. I don't know what you should read, but it should not be "zero." Probably something around 10 ohms, maybe, but I'm just guessing.

2. I suppose there's a possibility that the electrode has somehow shorted out (or something has gotten into it to short it out. I'd inspect the electrode for anything that doesn't look right. There should be a gap between the two sides of the electrode.

3. Another outside possibility: A rodent has chewed a wire and it's shorting out somewhere. Inspect as much of the wiring as you can.

4. It seems highly unlikely that the sail switch or limit switch are shorting to ground, so if you didn't find anything odd in items #1 thru 3 above, I'd think the ignition control unit would be the bad actor.

I don't think there's much more I can do to help you from here.

Someone else may have some suggestions.

Good luck.

[Basballace]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

This is difficult from afar, but here are some thoughts.

1. I'd pull the two red leads off the gas valve and measure resistance across where the red lead was plugged onto the gas valve and the yellow lead. The valve has two separate coils, one on each side, so you need to measure resistance from the red to yellow on the left and again on the right. I don't know what you should read, but it should not be "zero." Probably something around 10 ohms, maybe, but I'm just guessing.

2. I suppose there's a possibility that the electrode has somehow shorted out (or something has gotten into it to short it out. I'd inspect the electrode for anything that doesn't look right. There should be a gap between the two sides of the electrode.

3. Another outside possibility: A rodent has chewed a wire and it's shorting out somewhere. Inspect as much of the wiring as you can.

4. It seems highly unlikely that the sail switch or limit switch are shorting to ground, so if you didn't find anything odd in items #1 thru 3 above, I'd think the ignition control unit would be the bad actor.

I don't think there's much more I can do to help you from here.

Someone else may have some suggestions.

Good luck.

I appreciate all the help. It started raining on me here so I have called it a night. I’ll get to checking it out within the next few days and check back.

[rockfordroo]

Let us know your ultimate fix. It may help someone else.

[rockfordroo]

I found a value of 30-50 ohms for the gas valve on this website. There are some other troubleshooting ideas here.

Troubleshooting the RV Furnace

Good luck.

[B and B]

Was working sorry,

The fan bearing might be ceased and possibly drawing too much current blowing the fuse. See if it spins freely.