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03-11-2017, 06:46 PM
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#381
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJeep22
Here we go again... As we prepare to take off Monday, I thought I'd play some tunes while loading up the coach. The Furrion (living room) entertainment center won't turn on. The TV to the left of it works fine. I'm thinking they may also have blown this fuse when they crossed up the jumper cables. Anyone know where this fuse is, or have a clue about the malfunction?
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That radio runs on 12v, the TV is 110v. There are 12v fuses in the control panel on the 12v side. You can use your new Digital Ohm meter to check each fuse very easily without even pulling the fuses. There is a little hole in the top of each side of the plastic fuse, set the DOM on 12v and put one lead on each side of the fuse, it it shows voltage the fuse is good, no voltage...blown fuse.
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03-11-2017, 06:52 PM
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#382
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 57
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Control panel pic below, AC 110v breakers on the left, 12v fuses on the right, DC converter below...
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03-11-2017, 08:10 PM
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#383
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSLance
That radio runs on 12v, the TV is 110v. There are 12v fuses in the control panel on the 12v side. You can use your new Digital Ohm meter to check each fuse very easily without even pulling the fuses. There is a little hole in the top of each side of the plastic fuse, set the DOM on 12v and put one lead on each side of the fuse, it it shows voltage the fuse is good, no voltage...blown fuse.
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I don't have a 12V on the left side but I have a 20.
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03-11-2017, 08:29 PM
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#384
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSLance
Control panel pic below, AC 110v breakers on the left, 12v fuses on the right, DC converter below...
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I got that much. How hard do you have to push into those little fuse holes? I can see metal in the holes on the 40s, but not the 5s.
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03-11-2017, 08:37 PM
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#385
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World Wide Wanderer
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Sprung Leak, NC
Posts: 1,732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJeep22
I don't have a 12V on the left side but I have a 20.
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Use the 20, in reality the 12V system can top out around 14+ when it is being charged up.
It doesn't take too much pressure to test the fuses through the tops. Not all fuses have the holes.
If you don't find it tonight, I will check tomorrow and see which fuse it is.
Aaron
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03-11-2017, 08:39 PM
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#386
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
Use the 20, in reality the 12V system can top out around 14+ when it is being charged up.
It doesn't take too much pressure to test the fuses through the tops. Not all fuses have the holes.
If you don't find it tonight, I will check tomorrow and see which fuse it is.
Aaron
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Thanks Aaron.
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03-11-2017, 08:46 PM
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#387
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
Use the 20, in reality the 12V system can top out around 14+ when it is being charged up.
It doesn't take too much pressure to test the fuses through the tops. Not all fuses have the holes.
If you don't find it tonight, I will check tomorrow and see which fuse it is.
Aaron
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There are 2 - 40s on that panel. Supposedly they both blew when they crossed up the jumper cables. I have my meter on the left side set to 20 and touched the metal ends on each of them. Nothing! I put in a new 40 and tried to test it... Still nothing.
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2016 Coachman Concord 300DS-SOLD
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03-11-2017, 09:10 PM
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#388
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Land of the Midnightsun
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Midland TX
Posts: 346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJeep22
There are 2 - 40s on that panel. Supposedly they both blew when they crossed up the jumper cables. I have my meter on the left side set to 20 and touched the metal ends on each of them. Nothing! I put in a new 40 and tried to test it... Still nothing.
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Hey Steve. The fuse your looking for is number 6 on right side. It is 15amp it runs your tv boost and the head unit to right of tv.
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03-11-2017, 09:13 PM
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#389
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World Wide Wanderer
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Sprung Leak, NC
Posts: 1,732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJeep22
There are 2 - 40s on that panel. Supposedly they both blew when they crossed up the jumper cables. I have my meter on the left side set to 20 and touched the metal ends on each of them. Nothing! I put in a new 40 and tried to test it... Still nothing.
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I will look at those tomorrow. Put the meter on the 20k down around the 7 o'clock position and test the fuse when it is out of the holder. If it goes to zero or close to it the fuse is good. If the meter doesn't read anything the fuse it bad.
Are you getting power at the batteries when you are plugged in? You should get a reading in the 13.x Volt range.
Aaron
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03-11-2017, 09:14 PM
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#390
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World Wide Wanderer
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Sprung Leak, NC
Posts: 1,732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjSpeedwagon
Hey Steve. The fuse your looking for is number 6 on right side. It is 15amp it runs your tv boost and the head unit to right of tv.
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Glad someone knows which one it is! I am already in for the night, getting cold outside!
Aaron
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03-11-2017, 09:15 PM
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#391
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Land of the Midnightsun
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Midland TX
Posts: 346
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Also something else. If one of the 12 volt fuses break a red light will come on next to busted fuse. Except for the 2 40amp in center of box. Also one more thing. Sslance has a 300ts and his box is different than a 300ds. Watch it
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2016 Coachmen Concord 300DS
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03-11-2017, 09:22 PM
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#392
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjSpeedwagon
Also something else. If one of the 12 volt fuses break a red light will come on next to busted fuse. Except for the 2 40amp in center of box. Also one more thing. Sslance has a 300ts and his box is different than a 300ds. Watch it
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I noticed that. They did tell me during the initial walk through that there were a row of lights that would light up (if blown) next to the little fuses on the right side. None were lit up... then I got curious and looked real close... I don't see any freekin lights. LOL!
THANKS for the tip on #6. For what it's worth...the little "boost" light is ON. I wonder if that's independent from the entertainment center AND the actual antenna booster?
I'm beat... I'll check ol number 6 in the morning. Thanks again John.
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03-11-2017, 09:24 PM
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#393
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
I will look at those tomorrow. Put the meter on the 20k down around the 7 o'clock position and test the fuse when it is out of the holder. If it goes to zero or close to it the fuse is good. If the meter doesn't read anything the fuse it bad.
Are you getting power at the batteries when you are plugged in? You should get a reading in the 13.x Volt range.
Aaron
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I'll try this tomorrow just for practice. Gracias Aaron
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03-11-2017, 09:27 PM
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#394
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
I will look at those tomorrow. Put the meter on the 20k down around the 7 o'clock position and test the fuse when it is out of the holder. If it goes to zero or close to it the fuse is good. If the meter doesn't read anything the fuse it bad.
Are you getting power at the batteries when you are plugged in? You should get a reading in the 13.x Volt range.
Aaron
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I seem to remember, just testing the terminals (on the batteries) they each came in at about 12.7. I left them wired together though.
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03-12-2017, 06:00 AM
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#395
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World Wide Wanderer
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Sprung Leak, NC
Posts: 1,732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJeep22
I seem to remember, just testing the terminals (on the batteries) they each came in at about 12.7. I left them wired together though.
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That is a fully charged battery. It doesn't matter if you check them singly or hooked together for a basic power reading 12 volts is 12 volts. The only time you would need to separate them for power readings is if you are trying to trouble shoot a battery problem.
Aaron
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03-12-2017, 11:08 AM
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#396
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 57
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When I'm chasing an electrical problem, if it's not obvious right away, I'll generally go all the way back to the beginning (when the power starts) find if there is power there then work my way forward along the circuits until the power stops.
Being a DOM noob myself, that generally means finding how to show 12.7v on the DOM at the batteries then working my way to the fuse panel. I then check everything on the fuse panel to see what has power and what doesn't. On that DC board, I'd start with the red and white wire which should show the same voltage the batteries are putting out. Then I'd check each side of each fuse. etc etc...
You can't hurt anything testing +s and -s with the DOM...all it is is a meter to show whats going on between two points. Also, I'd do all of this with the shore power unhooked. Things will act completely different with shore power hooked up because the DC converter will be powering the DC fuse panel, not the batteries.
Remember, find where the power starts at and follow it from there until it stops. If the TV signal booster is working and the radio isn't, it very well could be something directly on the radio itself since both are on same circuit.
Good luck...
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03-12-2017, 11:33 AM
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#397
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
I will look at those tomorrow. Put the meter on the 20k down around the 7 o'clock position and test the fuse when it is out of the holder. If it goes to zero or close to it the fuse is good. If the meter doesn't read anything the fuse it bad.
Are you getting power at the batteries when you are plugged in? You should get a reading in the 13.x Volt range.
Aaron
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That worked great. However, old number 6 proved to be GOOD. When I pulled it, the red light did in fact come on.
Still no power at the entertainment center.
__________________
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2016 Coachman Concord 300DS-SOLD
2011 36QSH TIFFIN PHAETON
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03-12-2017, 11:39 AM
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#398
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSLance
When I'm chasing an electrical problem, if it's not obvious right away, I'll generally go all the way back to the beginning (when the power starts) find if there is power there then work my way forward along the circuits until the power stops.
Being a DOM noob myself, that generally means finding how to show 12.7v on the DOM at the batteries then working my way to the fuse panel. I then check everything on the fuse panel to see what has power and what doesn't. On that DC board, I'd start with the red and white wire which should show the same voltage the batteries are putting out. Then I'd check each side of each fuse. etc etc...
You can't hurt anything testing +s and -s with the DOM...all it is is a meter to show whats going on between two points. Also, I'd do all of this with the shore power unhooked. Things will act completely different with shore power hooked up because the DC converter will be powering the DC fuse panel, not the batteries.
Remember, find where the power starts at and follow it from there until it stops. If the TV signal booster is working and the radio isn't, it very well could be something directly on the radio itself since both are on same circuit.
Good luck...
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Thanks Lance. #6 fuse proved to be good. I unhooked the shore power and still no entertainment center power. John suggested I pull it out and check for a fuse behind it but this isn't a deal-breaker so I may wait till we get to our destination.
__________________
Thanks, Steve & Deb
2016 Coachman Concord 300DS-SOLD
2011 36QSH TIFFIN PHAETON
Garmin RV 660 MLT
2008 Jeep Sahara
-Blue Ox base plate | Ready Brute Elite
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03-12-2017, 02:46 PM
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#399
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World Wide Wanderer
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Sprung Leak, NC
Posts: 1,732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJeep22
Thanks Lance. #6 fuse proved to be good. I unhooked the shore power and still no entertainment center power. John suggested I pull it out and check for a fuse behind it but this isn't a deal-breaker so I may wait till we get to our destination.
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Pulling the unit is my next suggestion. I haven't checked the manual to see if there is an internal fuse. Have you held the power button down for several seconds? The unit has two power down settings, one is a stand by and the other is completely off. In standby the clock stays powered up. I usually power mine completely off.
Aaron
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03-12-2017, 03:02 PM
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#400
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
Pulling the unit is my next suggestion. I haven't checked the manual to see if there is an internal fuse. Have you held the power button down for several seconds? The unit has two power down settings, one is a stand by and the other is completely off. In standby the clock stays powered up. I usually power mine completely off.
Aaron
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I have tried a long press. Nothing. I'll probably wait to remove it until we get to AZ. Aside from that... everything seems to be working. Fingers crossed. Thanks again for all your help Aaron, Lance, John and the others.
You guys are the best.
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