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Old 08-13-2016, 09:44 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post

Typical setup is the water diverter on the campground sillcock, then a hose, then the filter, then the flex hose, then the pressure reducer then the 90 elbow. I want the filter to get water at a higher pressure to push through the filter medium.

Aaron
So the water thief/bandit is for a potential bad sillcock? Your setup makes perfect sense.

You use the water diverter INSTEAD of a "Y"? I thought I'd use a Y with my white drinking water hose on one side and the utility hose on the other. I'd have the pressure regulator just before the elbow on the white hose, that way I'd have full pressure on the utility hose for washing the car/motorhome and flushing. Not sure if full pressure could be dangerous for flushing.

I was thinking about using brass quick disconnects on the flush and fill connections behind the door on the motorhome.

Thanks again for all your help Aaron.
Steve
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Old 08-13-2016, 11:38 AM   #32
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I have another heads up and that is lube for your slides. First thing I did when got concord home was wash and wax. Well I waxed sides of slides to. Don't do that it will stick to rubber seals when sliding in or out. So I go to rv sales place and ask for can of lube for seals. He tells me you can get it at lowes a lot cheaper. But I did buy a can of lube from him for drive motors and tracks for slides. It is different lube than you would lube your seals with. Seal lube is called dry lube. I use Teflon dry lube there is another one can't think of name but both about same. Your drive motor and track lube is more along the lines of and oil base. My bedroom slide started to pull to one side A little after last trip so I lubed both track and seals now it rolls even
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Old 08-13-2016, 02:58 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJeep22 View Post
So the water thief/bandit is for a potential bad sillcock? Your setup makes perfect sense.

You use the water diverter INSTEAD of a "Y"? I thought I'd use a Y with my white drinking water hose on one side and the utility hose on the other. I'd have the pressure regulator just before the elbow on the white hose, that way I'd have full pressure on the utility hose for washing the car/motorhome and flushing. Not sure if full pressure could be dangerous for flushing.

I was thinking about using brass quick disconnects on the flush and fill connections behind the door on the motorhome.

Thanks again for all your help Aaron.
Steve
I prefer the diverter, I have stiff hands and trying to turn the little valves on the wyes doesn't always work well for me. Also if I am on a full service site I will put a wye on the diverter to use with my Sewer Solution and the black water rinse. still keeping the unit hooked up to water.

I typically do use full pressure for the black tank flush, but if for some reason you have really high pressure (60psi+) then you would want the pressure reducer. If you put too high a pressure on the black tank wash you may cause a leak at the fitting where it goes into the camper, there is a check valve in there that can leak under high pressure. So far I haven't managed to have that issue.

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Old 08-13-2016, 03:02 PM   #34
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I prefer the diverter, I have stiff hands and trying to turn the little valves on the wyes doesn't always work well for me. Also if I am on a full service site I will put a wye on the diverter to use with my Sewer Solution and the black water rinse. still keeping the unit hooked up to water.

I typically do use full pressure for the black tank flush, but if for some reason you have really high pressure (60psi+) then you would want the pressure reducer. If you put too high a pressure on the black tank wash you may cause a leak at the fitting where it goes into the camper, there is a check valve in there that can leak under high pressure. So far I haven't managed to have that issue.

Also John said something about slide lube... I use CRC Power Lube with PTFE, it is what Schwintek says to use on the slide mechanism. I use regular silicone spray on the actual seals, just gently wiped on. Some people use 303.

Aaron
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Old 08-13-2016, 05:36 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
I prefer the diverter, I have stiff hands and trying to turn the little valves on the wyes doesn't always work well for me. Also if I am on a full service site I will put a wye on the diverter to use with my Sewer Solution and the black water rinse. still keeping the unit hooked up to water.

I typically do use full pressure for the black tank flush, but if for some reason you have really high pressure (60psi+) then you would want the pressure reducer. If you put too high a pressure on the black tank wash you may cause a leak at the fitting where it goes into the camper, there is a check valve in there that can leak under high pressure. So far I haven't managed to have that issue.

Also John said something about slide lube... I use CRC Power Lube with PTFE, it is what Schwintek says to use on the slide mechanism. I use regular silicone spray on the actual seals, just gently wiped on. Some people use 303.

Aaron
Yes, I too am experiencing stiff fingers and knuckles these days. They sold us this stuff when we bought the motorhome, if it's no good... I guess we can take it back. We have some other stuff that we're taking back.

Since exterior storage is a premium on this Class C, (as compared to some of the As that we looked at) has anyone built any kind of underneath stinky slinky storage? I have an idea that I got from a Youtube video:
https://youtu.be/MLAvi33zWyg

Where do you find all these valves and check valves Aaron?
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Old 08-13-2016, 06:41 PM   #36
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By check valve I assume you mean the one on the black tank sprayer? It is an inline valve that is built into the system. I think we can access ours by going inside of the bathroom vanity against the side wall. There should be a similar valve for the outside shower too, same general area.

There are a multitude of ways to store a stinky slinky outside, I have seen people use a section of 6" PVC thin wall pipe with a screw on cap fitting on the end, sections of PVC fence post and one guy had a vinyl mailbox.

Aaron
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Old 08-13-2016, 07:56 PM   #37
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Sanitizing the fresh water tank?

Although my motor home is technically "New", I think it was probably on the lot for 6-7 months and most likely made it to a couple of RV shows, thus the missing manuals... That I'm still waiting on. I was checking all the tank levels the other day and everything is empty except for the fresh water tank. It appears to be about 3/4 full. Who knows when/where that was filled?

Aaron has explained a couple of ways to drain this tank, but I'm concerned that it may have slime and algae in the tank. Has anyone used this or something similar? How and where do you add things like this or the winterizing solutions? I see where to fill the tank with water, but how do you add an ounce or 2 of something else? Should I add something to the existing water before draining?
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Old 08-15-2016, 10:36 AM   #38
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The pump is so you can pull antifreeze into the system when you are winterizing (at least that is how I think it works, I missed that part of the class too. )

Aaron
Been looking into sanitizing the fresh water tank, and found some Forest River videos. They explain how to mix up a bleach solution and pump it into the system using a submersible pump in a 5 gallon bucket. Are you saying I should be able to mix up a solution in a bucket, and simply drop a hose in the bucket and connect the other end to the FILL connection... then press this external pump switch to pull the solution into the fresh water tank?
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Old 08-15-2016, 10:41 AM   #39
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Been looking into sanitizing the fresh water tank, and found some Forest River videos. They explain how to mix up a bleach solution and pump it into the system using a submersible pump in a 5 gallon bucket. Are you saying I should be able to mix up a solution in a bucket, and simply drop a hose in the bucket and connect the other end to the FILL connection... then press this external pump switch to pull the solution into the fresh water tank?
That was my understanding but I haven't tried it yet. If you want to be the guinea pig... go for it! I would try with clear water and see if the pump will pick it up. Might have to open a water faucet to get a flow going. Or it may just pump the tank dry..

We don't drink the water out of our tank, just use it for washing and flushing. I also use chlorinated water when putting water in the tank so it stays good for a while.

Aaron
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Old 08-15-2016, 10:49 AM   #40
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I also use chlorinated water when putting water in the tank so it stays good for a while.

Aaron
I'll give it a shot today, hopefully. I watched a couple videos where a guy spliced into his on-board water pump lines, hooked up an electrical on/off toggle switch, etc. This would be GREAT if it's already set up.

So how do you get chlorinated water in your FW tank, if you don't use this external pump switch and a bucket?
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