BlackJeep22's Concord 300 DS Newbee Questions

[BlackJeep22]

Looking to purchase a few more accessories for the coach. Looks like etrailer has a "low price guarantee". I'm finding that the 2 leading manufacturers are CAMCO and VALTERRA. Anyone have an opinion whether one is typically better than the other? Is it a Ford or Chevy thing?

I'm looking to buy:

• Sidewinder type sewer hose support
• Drinking water filter
• Flush King type black water tank flush

Thanks,
Steve

[jjSpeedwagon]

I've got some camco stuff. Water filter. I think my water fittings brass Y, elbow , water regulator ..get on Amazon and put in camco rv. My water hoses are quality with stainless fittings ...poop hose is rino brand ,don't forget clear 45 degree fitting so u can see when black tank is clean

[BlackJeep22]

Originally Posted by jjSpeedwagon

don't forget clear 45 degree fitting so u can see when black tank is clean

Got that one already. Thanks.

I was thinking about a "Y" fitting for water. Having NEVER hooked up to a camping site, I've never seen whether there are multiple water hookups or typically just one. Seems like a good idea to screw on a "Y" and hook both hoses to it.

[wahoonc]

The smaller Camco stuff is decent, buy a fair bit of it myself. I avoid their more pricey electrical stuff, seem to have problems with it.

I carry a wide range of adapters and such for water and electrical.

In my freshwater plumbing box I carry: a wye, a water thief and a water diverter, 90° elbow, a short 6" extension hose, 2 white water hoses, 10' and 20' I think, regular 15' garden hose, a couple of the cheap regulators and one good adjustable regulator some screw in plugs for the end of the water lines where they go in the faucets. I have had a faucet go bad, I was able to plug the end of the line and keep on camping, and a couple of the blue water filters. I usually write the date I start using the filter on it with a sharpie, figure they are good for 6 months/season or until they get plugged up. Last one got silted up pretty quickly due to chunky well water at one campground we stayed at. I need to add a couple of shark-bite fittings in whatever size the pex is in the unit along with a couple of short pieces of pex.

Electrical: Portable EMS, 50/30 amp adapter, 30/15 amp adapter, spare male 30 amp end, 30 amp extension cord, 25' 12 ga drop cord and a 3way power block. Along with some fuses for the 12 volt size.

I probably have more than that, but that is what crosses my mind at the moment. I may not need all of it, but some things have come in handy helping out fellow campers.

Aaron

[BlackJeep22]

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[BlackJeep22]

So, I finally crawled underneath today to take a look at the plumbing, etc. The Black tank and the 2 Gray tanks are pretty obvious, and it looks like the Gas tank is the big metal one in the center of the chassis. I didn't see anything obvious regarding the water tank. Where exactly is the water tank located?

Looking at the plumbing, and trying to remember what the tech briefly touched on during the walk through, I don't see any way to dump the gray tanks into the black tank to help flush it out. It looks like all they will do is flush out the stinky slinky. I could have sworn she said the gray tanks dump last to help clean out the black tank.

I found the 3rd knife valve for the gray tank on the passenger side. It's currently pulled OUT as expected. What do you suppose this valve is for, since there is another one in the dump station location? Seems like belt and suspenders.

Looking at the potable water connections behind the door, (photo attached) could someone please explain the sequence these were meant to be used?:

• What is the Pump Switch for?
• What does the Light Switch do?
• The Blue Valve. I know there is a diagram there, but (for clarity) could someone explain this a little better please?
• The White knob is for flushing the Black tank, using the hose for just this purpose? I'm assuming this is done with the black tank knife valve closed to build up some weight, being careful not to overfill? I'm planning to get one of these, to assist with the flushing. Is a water pressure reducer required for this?
• The Black Inlet connection is to fill the potable water tank, with the Blue Valve in the horizontal position? Is a water pressure reducer required for this?

Thanks again, in advance.

[wahoonc]

The fresh water tank is above the floor in the bedroom underneath the wardrobe towards the front of the coach, remove the black panel (4 or so screws) and you will see it.

Gray water won't rinse the black tank, just the outlet and the stinky slinky which is why you dump black first.

The valve on the right side is for winter use. If you are in freezing weather you don't want the gray water from the right side tank sitting in the pipe, it could freeze and break the pipe so you close the valve at the tank and turn the tank heaters on. The gray dump valve for that tank on the left side is for convenience. Now you know why I want to switch to electric. Eliminate one valve and control everything from the left side.

The light switch... wait for it... lights up That provides the light for that panel. Amazing ain't it.

The pump is so you can pull antifreeze into the system when you are winterizing (at least that is how I think it works, I missed that part of the class too. )

The white fitting is for the black tank flush, it is STRONGLY recommended that you leave the tank valve open. I am functionally illiterate and close my black tank valve to allow water to build up in the tank. However you need to be extremely careful not to overfill the black tank it will create one helluva mess. I haven't done it, but have observed the aftermath of someone that did. You may or may not need a pressure reducer on it depending on just how much pressure you are dealing with.

I do run the pressure regulator anytime I am hooked up to city water or filling the water tank.

The blue valve has two positions, the one you have it in right now is for filling the tank or pulling antifreeze into the system. If it is pointed down you are using city water and bypassing the tank, no pump needed.

Aaron

[BlackJeep22]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

I carry a wide range of adapters and such for water and electrical.

Aaron

Aaron,

Thanks so much for all your help. So, in your typical setup for the fresh water, what is the sequence of all of your various fittings? Do you first screw the pressure regulator onto your campground faucet or elbow... then your "Y". Do you have "quick disconnects" at each outlet of the "Y"?

Not sure how that Water Thief/Bandit works, must be for old worn out threads?

Any opinions regarding ordering from etrailer vs. RV & Auto Parts? etrailer has a "best price guarantee" but RV & Auto Parts beats them at everything on my list.

[wahoonc]

I don't normally use the quick disconnects I carry a pair of pump pliers in my tool bag to tighten things up with.

The order of things varies a bit depending on how long I am going to be staying somewhere and where the water spigot is located, how close to the ground, etc.

Typical setup is the water diverter on the campground sillcock, then a hose, then the filter, then the flex hose, then the pressure reducer then the 90° elbow. I want the filter to get water at a higher pressure to push through the filter medium.

I have bought from etrailer and have no complaints, I have not purchased from the other one. Most my stuff comes off Amazon as add ons to my larger orders. I have a prime account so stuff ships free. I also buy from RVupgrades.com for some stuff, as well as a quasi-local dealer a couple of hours up the road, they are an older dealer and have a huge stock of small bits and pieces that can be hard to find in small quantities.

The water thief/bandit is for damaged threads or no threads, if no threads you may have to run a hose clamp around it to make it work. It does not like high pressure.

Aaron

[wahoonc]

I also buy stuff at Wallyworld if I happen to be spending the night or passing through. Not my favorite place to shop. For some reason they have had the best price on the blue filters... usually.

Aaron

[BlackJeep22]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

Typical setup is the water diverter on the campground sillcock, then a hose, then the filter, then the flex hose, then the pressure reducer then the 90° elbow. I want the filter to get water at a higher pressure to push through the filter medium.

Aaron

So the water thief/bandit is for a potential bad sillcock? Your setup makes perfect sense.

You use the water diverter INSTEAD of a "Y"? I thought I'd use a Y with my white drinking water hose on one side and the utility hose on the other. I'd have the pressure regulator just before the elbow on the white hose, that way I'd have full pressure on the utility hose for washing the car/motorhome and flushing. Not sure if full pressure could be dangerous for flushing.

I was thinking about using brass quick disconnects on the flush and fill connections behind the door on the motorhome.

Thanks again for all your help Aaron.
Steve

[jjSpeedwagon]

I have another heads up and that is lube for your slides. First thing I did when got concord home was wash and wax. Well I waxed sides of slides to. Don't do that it will stick to rubber seals when sliding in or out. So I go to rv sales place and ask for can of lube for seals. He tells me you can get it at lowes a lot cheaper. But I did buy a can of lube from him for drive motors and tracks for slides. It is different lube than you would lube your seals with. Seal lube is called dry lube. I use Teflon dry lube there is another one can't think of name but both about same. Your drive motor and track lube is more along the lines of and oil base. My bedroom slide started to pull to one side A little after last trip so I lubed both track and seals now it rolls even

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by BlackJeep22

So the water thief/bandit is for a potential bad sillcock? Your setup makes perfect sense.

You use the water diverter INSTEAD of a "Y"? I thought I'd use a Y with my white drinking water hose on one side and the utility hose on the other. I'd have the pressure regulator just before the elbow on the white hose, that way I'd have full pressure on the utility hose for washing the car/motorhome and flushing. Not sure if full pressure could be dangerous for flushing.

I was thinking about using brass quick disconnects on the flush and fill connections behind the door on the motorhome.

Thanks again for all your help Aaron.
Steve

I prefer the diverter, I have stiff hands and trying to turn the little valves on the wyes doesn't always work well for me. Also if I am on a full service site I will put a wye on the diverter to use with my Sewer Solution and the black water rinse. still keeping the unit hooked up to water.

I typically do use full pressure for the black tank flush, but if for some reason you have really high pressure (60psi+) then you would want the pressure reducer. If you put too high a pressure on the black tank wash you may cause a leak at the fitting where it goes into the camper, there is a check valve in there that can leak under high pressure. So far I haven't managed to have that issue.

Aaron

[wahoonc]

I prefer the diverter, I have stiff hands and trying to turn the little valves on the wyes doesn't always work well for me. Also if I am on a full service site I will put a wye on the diverter to use with my Sewer Solution and the black water rinse. still keeping the unit hooked up to water.

I typically do use full pressure for the black tank flush, but if for some reason you have really high pressure (60psi+) then you would want the pressure reducer. If you put too high a pressure on the black tank wash you may cause a leak at the fitting where it goes into the camper, there is a check valve in there that can leak under high pressure. So far I haven't managed to have that issue.

Also John said something about slide lube... I use CRC Power Lube with PTFE, it is what Schwintek says to use on the slide mechanism. I use regular silicone spray on the actual seals, just gently wiped on. Some people use 303.

Aaron

[BlackJeep22]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

I prefer the diverter, I have stiff hands and trying to turn the little valves on the wyes doesn't always work well for me. Also if I am on a full service site I will put a wye on the diverter to use with my Sewer Solution and the black water rinse. still keeping the unit hooked up to water.

I typically do use full pressure for the black tank flush, but if for some reason you have really high pressure (60psi+) then you would want the pressure reducer. If you put too high a pressure on the black tank wash you may cause a leak at the fitting where it goes into the camper, there is a check valve in there that can leak under high pressure. So far I haven't managed to have that issue.

Also John said something about slide lube... I use CRC Power Lube with PTFE, it is what Schwintek says to use on the slide mechanism. I use regular silicone spray on the actual seals, just gently wiped on. Some people use 303.

Aaron

Yes, I too am experiencing stiff fingers and knuckles these days. They sold us this stuff when we bought the motorhome, if it's no good... I guess we can take it back. We have some other stuff that we're taking back.

Since exterior storage is a premium on this Class C, (as compared to some of the As that we looked at) has anyone built any kind of underneath stinky slinky storage? I have an idea that I got from a Youtube video:
https://youtu.be/MLAvi33zWyg

Where do you find all these valves and check valves Aaron?

[wahoonc]

By check valve I assume you mean the one on the black tank sprayer? It is an inline valve that is built into the system. I think we can access ours by going inside of the bathroom vanity against the side wall. There should be a similar valve for the outside shower too, same general area.

There are a multitude of ways to store a stinky slinky outside, I have seen people use a section of 6" PVC thin wall pipe with a screw on cap fitting on the end, sections of PVC fence post and one guy had a vinyl mailbox.

Aaron

[BlackJeep22]

Although my motor home is technically "New", I think it was probably on the lot for 6-7 months and most likely made it to a couple of RV shows, thus the missing manuals... That I'm still waiting on. I was checking all the tank levels the other day and everything is empty except for the fresh water tank. It appears to be about 3/4 full. Who knows when/where that was filled?

Aaron has explained a couple of ways to drain this tank, but I'm concerned that it may have slime and algae in the tank. Has anyone used this or something similar? How and where do you add things like this or the winterizing solutions? I see where to fill the tank with water, but how do you add an ounce or 2 of something else? Should I add something to the existing water before draining?

[BlackJeep22]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

The pump is so you can pull antifreeze into the system when you are winterizing (at least that is how I think it works, I missed that part of the class too. )

Aaron

Been looking into sanitizing the fresh water tank, and found some Forest River videos. They explain how to mix up a bleach solution and pump it into the system using a submersible pump in a 5 gallon bucket. Are you saying I should be able to mix up a solution in a bucket, and simply drop a hose in the bucket and connect the other end to the FILL connection... then press this external pump switch to pull the solution into the fresh water tank?

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by BlackJeep22

Been looking into sanitizing the fresh water tank, and found some Forest River videos. They explain how to mix up a bleach solution and pump it into the system using a submersible pump in a 5 gallon bucket. Are you saying I should be able to mix up a solution in a bucket, and simply drop a hose in the bucket and connect the other end to the FILL connection... then press this external pump switch to pull the solution into the fresh water tank?

That was my understanding but I haven't tried it yet. If you want to be the guinea pig... go for it! I would try with clear water and see if the pump will pick it up. Might have to open a water faucet to get a flow going. Or it may just pump the tank dry..

We don't drink the water out of our tank, just use it for washing and flushing. I also use chlorinated water when putting water in the tank so it stays good for a while.

Aaron

[BlackJeep22]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

I also use chlorinated water when putting water in the tank so it stays good for a while.

Aaron

I'll give it a shot today, hopefully. I watched a couple videos where a guy spliced into his on-board water pump lines, hooked up an electrical on/off toggle switch, etc. This would be GREAT if it's already set up.

So how do you get chlorinated water in your FW tank, if you don't use this external pump switch and a bucket?