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Old 02-24-2017, 09:29 PM   #301
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Originally Posted by BlackJeep22 View Post
Portland is VERY similar. How you doing Larry?
Doing well, Steve, doing well.
We're on "Baby Watch". We're on DD +1..... Due Date +1. My oldest son and his wife had a due date of yesterday. Waitin' for a call to head to that dreaded D.C. area to see my granddaughter.
Hit 84 degrees here today. Been in the 70's most of the week. Supposed to be down in the 50's tomorrow. Where the heck did Spring go?!?! We're back to winter tomorrow!!!!
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Old 02-25-2017, 05:37 AM   #302
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Ya, well... (I might), the thing is...I was just there 2 days ago. It's 30 miles, but usually STOP and GO most of the way on the freeway.
Yuck... I get your hesitation. In that case, and again if were me (and I understand it's not!) I might pull the batteries myself and toss 'em in the back of the Jeep and take that... if your dealer was amenable to your not bringing the motorhome back in.
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Old 02-25-2017, 06:50 AM   #303
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To load test a battery they put it on the charger and make sure it is fully charged, then let it rest. Then they hook up a 'machine' that puts a heavy draw on the battery and take voltage readings. If the readings drop too fast the batteries are toast.

I would take the dealer up on the replacement batteries, then you will know you have good ones. There are other ways to test a battery too, I have used a spectrometer to check the specific gravity of the acid in each cell, as well as checking individual cell voltages.

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Old 02-25-2017, 09:35 AM   #304
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Yuck... I get your hesitation. In that case, and again if were me (and I understand it's not!) I might pull the batteries myself and toss 'em in the back of the Jeep and take that... if your dealer was amenable to your not bringing the motorhome back in.
My wife just suggested that very thing. Sounds like it's worth a try. Since the coach is still under warranty, I assumed they would frown on me doing the swap myself.
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Old 02-25-2017, 09:37 AM   #305
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To load test a battery they put it on the charger and make sure it is fully charged, then let it rest. Then they hook up a 'machine' that puts a heavy draw on the battery and take voltage readings. If the readings drop too fast the batteries are toast.

I would take the dealer up on the replacement batteries, then you will know you have good ones. There are other ways to test a battery too, I have used a spectrometer to check the specific gravity of the acid in each cell, as well as checking individual cell voltages.

Aaron
Thanks Aaron.
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Old 02-26-2017, 03:38 PM   #306
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Doing well, Steve, doing well.
We're on "Baby Watch". We're on DD +1..... Due Date +1. My oldest son and his wife had a due date of yesterday. Waitin' for a call to head to that dreaded D.C. area to see my granddaughter.
Hit 84 degrees here today. Been in the 70's most of the week. Supposed to be down in the 50's tomorrow. Where the heck did Spring go?!?! We're back to winter tomorrow!!!!
Good luck with the new family member. Our's turns ONE on Tuesday.

I have a question for you regarding your turnbuckle setup for your ReadyBrute...
  • Once you get everything (brake cable) adjusted, is there enough slack to remove the cable from the toad, (by simply unhooking the carabiner) or do you have to adjust the turnbuckle?
Gracias amigo...
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Old 02-26-2017, 03:41 PM   #307
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Yuck... I get your hesitation. In that case, and again if were me (and I understand it's not!) I might pull the batteries myself and toss 'em in the back of the Jeep and take that... if your dealer was amenable to your not bringing the motorhome back in.
My dealer said there was no need to bring the coach all the way back there. Told me to just bring in my batteries and he's swap them out. Very cool. Much better to drive a 30+mpg nimble car through that traffic, than a lumbering 10 mpg rig.
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Old 02-26-2017, 08:44 PM   #308
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Good luck with the new family member. Our's turns ONE on Tuesday.

I have a question for you regarding your turnbuckle setup for your ReadyBrute...
  • Once you get everything (brake cable) adjusted, is there enough slack to remove the cable from the toad, (by simply unhooking the carabiner) or do you have to adjust the turnbuckle?
Gracias amigo...
Thanks for the well wishes with the new granddaughter. We're at DD+3. It will be a big difference compared to our 13 year old grandson.

Turnbuckle setup - If you want to count DW depressing the brake peddle for slack, yes I can use the carabiner to unhook the cable. Otherwise I have NO slack once I have it adjusted and foot off the brake. Slack while towing would defeat the purpose of the cable/turnbuckle setup. Acordaron?
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Old 02-26-2017, 08:54 PM   #309
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Thanks for the well wishes with the new granddaughter. We're at DD+3. It will be a big difference compared to our 13 year old grandson.

Turnbuckle setup - If you want to count DW depressing the brake peddle for slack, yes I can use the carabiner to unhook the cable. Otherwise I have NO slack once I have it adjusted and foot off the brake. Slack while towing would defeat the purpose of the cable/turnbuckle setup. Acordaron?
So... You don't have that 2 inches of slack that they recommend?
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Old 02-26-2017, 08:58 PM   #310
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So... You don't have that 2 inches of slack that they recommend?
No sir. And haven't had any issues.
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Old 02-26-2017, 09:24 PM   #311
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No sir. And haven't had any issues.
Cool, that actually makes more sense. We're heading out for Tuscon, AZ in about 10 days. I'm in a dilemma whether to change my oil now, (3200 miles) or wait until we get there, (1400 more miles).
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Old 02-27-2017, 09:50 PM   #312
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To load test a battery they put it on the charger and make sure it is fully charged, then let it rest. Then they hook up a 'machine' that puts a heavy draw on the battery and take voltage readings. If the readings drop too fast the batteries are toast.

I would take the dealer up on the replacement batteries, then you will know you have good ones. There are other ways to test a battery too, I have used a spectrometer to check the specific gravity of the acid in each cell, as well as checking individual cell voltages.

Aaron
Well, after charging the batteries for 4 days, (with the disconnect turned ON)... I stopped by today to find that absolutely nothing related to the batteries worked. Swapping them out later this week, hopefully nothing else is damaged.
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Old 02-28-2017, 06:24 AM   #313
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Well, after charging the batteries for 4 days, (with the disconnect turned ON)... I stopped by today to find that absolutely nothing related to the batteries worked. Swapping them out later this week, hopefully nothing else is damaged.
Did you have the unit plugged in? If no 12 volt works you most likely have a blown fuse/breaker somewhere. I am on the road and will be home Wednesday and will take a look at the wiring diagrams and see if I can point you in the right direction. The 12 volt should work with the unit plugged in, batteries or no batteries. The converter normally provides 12 volt power as well as charges up the batteries. Did you see if the batteries had charged up?

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Old 02-28-2017, 09:58 AM   #314
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When I went over to the coach it was raining, and as I remember... I was in a hurry and just wanted to see if they had charged. So, (again, as I remember) I just checked to make sure the lights were on, on the surge protector and unplugged it. Then I checked to see if anything worked. I tried a few lights and nothing but the carbon monoxide monitor (beeping in the background) was working.

I can say, that after they crossed up the jumper cables and plugged it into 50 amp shore power, we were able to retract the entry steps.
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Old 02-28-2017, 05:32 PM   #315
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When I went over to the coach it was raining, and as I remember... I was in a hurry and just wanted to see if they had charged. So, (again, as I remember) I just checked to make sure the lights were on, on the surge protector and unplugged it. Then I checked to see if anything worked. I tried a few lights and nothing but the carbon monoxide monitor (beeping in the background) was working.

I can say, that after they crossed up the jumper cables and plugged it into 50 amp shore power, we were able to retract the entry steps.
The CO detector beeping usually means low battery voltage...

Sounds like you may need to take it back to the dealer and let them deal with it.

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Old 02-28-2017, 05:34 PM   #316
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The CO detector beeping usually means low battery voltage...

Sounds like you may need to take it back to the dealer and let them deal with it.

Aaron
Yes, I discovered that a few months ago. It's there now.
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Old 03-01-2017, 06:51 PM   #317
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Batteries Update:
The batteries were replaced and still no 12V power. They found a couple blown fuses, but also that the converter wasn't getting and juice from shore power. They looked into that and found an apparent loose connection between the coach power cord and the chassis. They could shake the cord and power would go off and on. Suppose to all be covered under warranty. Suppose to be ready tomorrow. DAMN!
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Old 03-01-2017, 06:55 PM   #318
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Batteries Update:
The batteries were replaced and still no 12V power. They found a couple blown fuses, but also that the converter wasn't getting and juice from shore power. They looked into that and found an apparent loose connection between the coach power cord and the chassis. They could shake the cord and power would go off and on. Suppose to all be covered under warranty. Suppose to be ready tomorrow. DAMN!
Sounds about right... at least they are fixing it ASAP.

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Old 03-01-2017, 07:09 PM   #319
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Sounds about right... at least they are fixing it ASAP.

Aaron
Exactly... We have reservations in Tuscon on March 17. [emoji3]
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Old 03-04-2017, 02:42 PM   #320
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The Blown Fuses

To be a little specific on just what fuses blew when they crossed up the jumper cables... this is what the tech told me.

In the first photo... this is the black plastic cover when entering on the driver's side. It pulls right up, a little tricky to get it loose from the seat belt, but underneath this cover are a couple of fuses that work in conjunction with allowing the Ford alternator to charge the coach batteries. These 2 fuses were blown.

In the second photo... the fuse panel. Both 40 amp fuses and one 15 amp fuse were blown. These allow the converter to it's job of turning 110 into 12V. These 3 were blown. Not sure about the 15 amp fuse, but he said the light WAS on, helping to see which were blown. The 2 40 amp fuses do not have idiot lights.

Hope this helps you Concord owners.
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