I am with SeaDog. We run with some water in the freshwater tank... maybe 15 gallons or so, up to full if we think we need it. Problem is that is over 400# if it is full.
There is a blue "switch" where you hook the water hose up, you want it on "city" if you are planning on using the city water, you switch to "tank fill/Winterize" if you want to put water in your tank. The drain down valve for the fresh water tank is behind the furnace air intake under the stove, slow to drain down too. I learned a long time ago to ALWAYS keep some water in the tank. I was at a campground near Charleston, SC when a storm came through and knocked out the power for several hours. The campground was on well water, within an hour they no longer had water pressure. Those of us that had the foresight to have water in our tanks could take showers, flush toilets, etc.
You will need to add a port of some sort if you want to use your portable stove, where you put it will determine what you need to do to your stove. I haven't bothered to delve in to it yet. I know that if you go off tank pressure (if front of the regulator) you will need to leave a regulator on the stove, go behind the regulator and you will need some sort of adapter to replace the regulator on the stove. Right now I just haul a 20# cylinder in a milk crate in my rear rack. Eventually I want a smaller FRP cylinder. I also keep a couple of the 1# cylinders as back up.
The fridge defaults to ac power if available, if not it will run on LP as long as you have 12v power available for the control board. You can over ride the fridge so it will run on gas if you need your electrical amps for something else.