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Old 03-03-2016, 02:08 PM   #1
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Coachmen Leprechaun CB230 Heating Pads???

We own a 2015 Leprechaun CB230 and it does not have heating pads etc for cold weather use. Does anyone know if they can be added, is it worth it, and the approximate cost. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
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Old 03-05-2016, 06:37 PM   #2
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Seems nobody out there has a clue...so I called Bretz RV today, and got a very vague answer...$170 x 2 for the heating pads, $20 or so for switches, and worst case senerio ?$1,000 labor.... they didn't know labor costs until they got the unit up and saw what was needed. Amazing that they didn't know whether the tanks were exposed or not so they couldn't give me an accurate estimate for the labor. And this is the dealer I bought this unit from. I have decided to pass...any suggestions are appreciated.
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Old 03-05-2016, 06:54 PM   #3
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Missed this the first go around. Yes you can add heating pads to your tanks, don't forget the pipes and valves while you are at it.

Ultra-heat is the good stuff. They have the prices on their website. The only problem that I know of using the 12 DC pads is the power draw is pretty substantial and you WON'T be running them long on battery power alone. I have the tank pads on my new Concord, I am also looking at what it will take to add insulated boxes around the tanks so I can put hot air heat down into them to help keep the tanks from freezing up. I don't camp in extremely cold temps, but I do boondock quite a bit.

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Old 03-08-2016, 02:35 PM   #4
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We have a Coachmen Freelander 28QB. Exposed tanks and no heat pads. We have not boondocked, but have been at campgrounds with cold weather and lite snow. The following has worked for us as we had electric.
We use a 10'x12' tarp placed behind the rear axle and extended rearward beyond the rear most sewer lines. It is held up front, rear, and sides with bungee cords to block out air. I place a trouble light with an incandescent bulb (Home Depot "work" light bulb) inside the tarpped area. So far we have been okay. Be sure to keep the tarp sides inside of the RV exterior wall so that moisture running down the RV exterior does not collect in the tarp.
We also use a pipe heat tape on our potable water supply line, pressure regulator, and water source riser. These are covered with pipe insulation to help hold the heat.
Additionally, I remove the inside access panel to the water heater to ensure it gets some heat from the electric heater we use. This way we are not using much propane.
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Old 03-08-2016, 10:52 PM   #5
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Beware of those suggested labor prices. I have a 2016 Leprechaun 319DS, and just spent a couple hours crawling under the motorhome, installing a brake indicator light for my Blue Ox tow bar system.

The tank bottoms were exposed, and the pads attached directly to the bottom, with the wires running up and feeding into wire looms. I realize that there are switches involved, and the need to locate the master switch, but overall, the system looks to be very straightforward. I don't know how your unit looks for the bottom side, but on mine, running the loom and wire and avoiding the V10 exhaust system, as well as the exhaust pipe from the generator, wasn't an issue.
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:51 AM   #6
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That labor rate sounds like about a full day at current shop rates. Not outrageous. Depending on where you plan to mount the switches and chase the wires I could see it chewing up most of a day. If you plan ahead and know where everything is you might be able to do it in less time.

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Old 03-11-2016, 09:43 AM   #7
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Winter water supply protection.

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