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Old 10-07-2015, 10:27 PM   #21
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Winterizing a Leprechaun 319DS

Thank you Leprechaun. That seems to do it. Originally I had considered that maybe you were supposed to pull up on them and I did that a little bit but not very aggressively. (Didn't want to fill the coach up with water). But when I went back after reading your reply it worked.

That was my major hurdle but I still have a couple of questions. I wouldn't be asking if I hadn't already tried the owner's handbooks, etc but they were no help.

The compartment where you put water in has a lever labeled city water in one direction and the other direction is labeled fresh water/winterize. I hooked the city water to the city water supply and all is well. The rig came with a full fresh water tank so I haven't filled it. But it appears that you use the same (only) hose inlet and flip the lever to fill it. No problem. But if I want to winterize, it would appear that the antifreeze is going to go right into the fresh water tank. The owner's manual would seem to support this. Is this what I want to do? My fifth wheel had one bypass lever for the fresh water tank and one for the hot water heater. Not so here. And in any event, how do I keep the antifreeze out of the hot water heater? Is there some type of secret valve for this also?

I would again appreciate any help you could offer. Thanx.
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Old 10-08-2015, 08:49 AM   #22
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pobox, your drain valve questions, and the answers, have helped me greatly, too. I really appreciate the answers, and don't mean to jump on your thread, but also have a winterizing question that you or others may know the answer to.

My previous TT's have had a fresh water filter, usually located beneath the bathroom sink. The owner's manual for my Leprechaun makes mention of a water filter system, but like everything else in the manual, it's so generic that it's nearly no value.

I'd hate to miss a filter when winterizing, since that would guarantee a break in the system. Does the Leprechaun 319DS (model year 2016) have a filter system, and if so, where?

Many thanks to you and the others who know about this unit, and can perhaps answer this question.

To your question, during our walk-through, the tech told us the hot water heater bypass valves were located behind the panel beneath the Atwood range. I haven't looked yet, but the panel has four screws. In previous units with a similar set-up, I'd drain the low-water points (and fresh water tank), pull the water heater's anode valve and drain it, and then turn the two valves in the opposite direction from what they were, which prevented antifreeze from entering the water heater when I pumped the antifreeze through the rest of the water system.

Thank you!
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Old 10-08-2015, 10:16 AM   #23
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Here is a pic of the bypass valves on the back of my HW heater on my 2016 319DS. It is under the stove as badlands described. I am getting ready to winterize in the next couple weeks as well. Badlands I have no water filter unit on my 2016 either; I asked our dealer about this when we purchased and they said there isn't one.
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Old 10-08-2015, 10:04 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marksha83 View Post
Here is a pic of the bypass valves on the back of my HW heater on my 2016 319DS. It is under the stove as badlands described. I am getting ready to winterize in the next couple weeks as well. Badlands I have no water filter unit on my 2016 either; I asked our dealer about this when we purchased and they said there isn't one.
Excellent, and thank you for sharing that info. On my prior Forest River trailers, they used a proprietary filter that went for around thirty bucks each (from them, or PUR), so I'm not disappointed the 319DS lacks one, but I sure didn't want to miss removing it for winterizing if they did.

Again, thank you!
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Old 10-09-2015, 12:36 PM   #25
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Thank you marksha and badlands for your help. I have removed the panel and found the valves. Do you turn both of them?

I am not aware of a water filter in our rig.

Still wondering how you keep the antifreeze out of the fresh water tank when winterizing by the non-compressed air method. Or maybe you don't?

Thank you.
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Old 10-09-2015, 01:56 PM   #26
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Winterize 319DS

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Old 10-09-2015, 02:58 PM   #27
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My setup looks identical to you picture. Coming right of my fresh water tank (under the bed) there is a valve that shuts off the tank from the rest of the water supply.
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Old 10-11-2015, 08:35 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by pobox1067 View Post
Thank you marksha and badlands for your help. I have removed the panel and found the valves. Do you turn both of them?

I am not aware of a water filter in our rig.

Still wondering how you keep the antifreeze out of the fresh water tank when winterizing by the non-compressed air method. Or maybe you don't?

Thank you.
In my situation, I'll be adding the RV antifreeze directly into the fresh water tank, and that allows me to pump it throughout all lines and faucets, until the liquid coming from the faucets is pink, so I know all lines have been winterized. With the outside shower, the outside kitchen unit, and the kitchen and bath faucet, as well as the shower, I believe five gallons will do it. I'll put additional RV antifreeze down each of the three traps, and enough in so I know I have a small quantity in the gray tank and the black tank.

I also am extra cautious with the two inside faucets, since they operate from a single paddle handle. Unless you turn those faucets to both hot and cold until the antifreeze comes out, the side you miss will freeze and break, and believe me, I learned this from experience!

Even in the years I used the compressed air method for winterizing, I still added a small amount of antifreeze to the three tanks, just as an added precaution. In the spring, I always sanitize my freshwater system using the bleach method, and that pretty well dilutes the antifreeze taste from the water. That, and filling the fresh water tank with fresh water after treating, and running lots of that water through the system.

Hope this helps.
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Old 10-11-2015, 09:13 PM   #29
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Here is what I just did for winterizing. I bought the white valve you see in the pic with the clear hose connected to it. I installed the valve on the 'In' side of the pump, when I turn the valve it will close off the flow from the fresh water tank and suck from the clear tube. Therefore no antifreeze in the fresh water tank.

I will put the end of the clear tube into a gallon jug of antifreeze and turn on the pump to push the antifreeze through all the faucets, etc. I will still blow everything out before this with compressed air. Maybe overkill to do both compressed air and antifreeze but better safe than sorry.

It's my first time winterizing an RV so I want to make sure I do it right.
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Old 10-16-2015, 01:42 PM   #30
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dran valves on the 22qB

We also have an 2015 Coachmen 22QB. The drain valves are behind a grill under the oven. There a four long screw holding the grill on. I used a cordless drill to remove the screws, You will see three valves, there is a forth to the left under the sink and another one higher up for the hot water tank. Good luck trying to figure out which is which. There is also a drain plug on the hot water tank, open the pressure relief valve at the same time. I opened all four one at a time and used compressed air to clear them after they drained. I also open each faucet one at a time and did the compressed air dance with each faucet. A short drive around the block with the valves open seemed to remove what was left.

Drove our 22QB to Alaska and back from Columbus Ohio and it worked like a Champ. Anybody tells you the Alaska Highway is in Alaska and is a Highway Lied to you twice. Make sure you carry a Spare and check your tires pressure daily. With that said, can't wait to go back. 10,071 miles.
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