Fresh water tank drain valve - where is it?

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by MNtraveler

I'm not certain I fully understand your question, but the gist of it seems to be how to get water out of the water pump when the pump resides above the floor of the FW tank and there may be water in the line above that too (i.e., that will now flow back into the FW tank from which it could be drained).

Others have reported that in some units you can just pump out the FW. However, in most units discussed on these boards there is a FW tank drain line (and separate drain lines for the hot and cold water lines).

Even with those, the remaining water needs to be removed from the FW lines in one or both of two ways: 1) blow it out using compressed air attached to the city water inlet using a blow-out plug readily available on Amazon or from Camping World or other sources (there are at least two kinds of plugs depending on your air pressure connection so be careful there, a tire valve type and a quick-connect chuck); and 2) pump RV antifreeze through the lines using the inlet side of the pump (this may already be set up with a valve to switch to winterization mode or that valve can be added to your pump inlet line if it's not there now).

Personal preferences and local weather conditions govern which method or both to use. Around here in MN because it can drop to 30 below, we generally use both methods to get as much water out as possible and then fill every line and drain with antifreeze.

I am concerned with the lines from FW tank to the pump inlet seems to be a couple inches above the bottom of the TW tank.
I do not think that simply running the pump after draining the FW tank will ensure all water is out of the line. I doubt that trying to blow out the line using the "city water" connection will have any effect on the lines in or out of the pump as there has to be a check valve in the pump to prevent water going from pressurized lines on city water side of the pump to the FW tank, so there is some shorter line that "Ts" into the city water pressure lines from the pump somewhere. That line will also collect water that the pump cannot 100% clear out.

Only way I can think of to get antifreeze into all the lines is to:
1. Drain all lines & FW tank.
2. Close FW tank drain and somehow get a couple gal of antifreeze into the TW tank ( not easy with only a hose connection from outside to the FW tank
3. Use the pump to suck antifreeze out of FW tank and into all the lines.
4. Somehow get antifreeze into line on City Water pressure side of system.

I guess I need to build a holding tank (with a hose exit that connects to FW tank fill connection ) that I can easily fill with antifreeze then pressurize it to get antifreeze into the FW tank.

Live in NE Ohio. While this Winter wasn't particularly cold it can get below 0°F so I want to ensure no water collects in low points of lines.

The system in the 2008 Freelander was much better in that it had suction line and all lines could get filled with antifreeze except the FW fill line.
Of course FR used electrical tape to secure some of the hose ends rather than metal or even plastic hose fittings but hey they need to save every penny.

[MNtraveler]

You're correct about the check valve that should prevent air pressure from going "backwards" into the water pump.

Where possible, most people get anti-freeze into the hot and cold water lines by using a winterizing line with a valve on the suction side of the water pump that switches from drawing water out of the FW tank to pulling anti-freeze from a bucket.

If that is not possible for you, another alternative people have used is to pump anti-freeze from a bucket into the city water inlet using an external pump. This could be a pump that plugs into AC or DC power, or there are some that are driven by a power screwdriver. You would just hook this pump up to a hose that goes into the city water inlet and then open all of the faucets inside one by one to distribute the anti-freeze throughout the system.

Either of these two methods may not remove freshwater from the segment of line between the freshwater tank and the pump. If, for some reason, that line does not drain back into the FW tank (and I'm not sure why it wouldn't, but things do happen...), it may be necessary to manually disconnect that piece of line and dump the water out of it. I can't think of any other solution off hand, but others here may have additional ideas.


Land of 10,000 Lakes
2016 Forester MBS 2401R

[Speedilad]

Hi, We also have a freelander 22qb. found the low point drains. remove cabinet louver at the floor below the stove (mine was difficult to remove). the low point drain valves are right there. see picture
did you find the water pump? how did you winterize? thanks Jim

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by Speedilad

Hi, We also have a freelander 22qb. found the low point drains. remove cabinet louver at the floor below the stove (mine was difficult to remove). the low point drain valves are right there. see picture
did you find the water pump? how did you winterize? thanks Jim

I see that FR decided to save $0.20 by not putting a "Low Point Drain" sticker above the lover. You can make the install & removal of the lover panel with some sanding at both ends and top & bottom of the end pieces. (another cost savings for FR as they do not have to pay for your labor to mane the panel fit better)
I has some shorter screws as you only need to get through the end pieces.

RE water pump.
In the basement there is a long panel (8" x 7' or so) on driver side above the floor.

I removed mine and cut it into two so I only need to remove the rear most 3' or so not the entire 7' panel to expose the pump.

FR is suppose to have given you a fitting to go into the inlet side of the pump. MY RV dealer charged me $9 for one. I should have checked on line and saved some $

I got 4' of 1/2" vinyl hose at Lowes.

Pull the blue locking tab and pull out the hose then slip in the short hose with your new barb fitting and lock in.


put other end of vinyl in jug of antifreeze and turn on the pump and it will suck in the antifreeze. When done pull blue lock, remove your temporary hose and re-attach the original line.

Sorry the above picture is not from my 22QB as it is all closed up. but you should get the idea of the blue lock and slip fitting.

you can PM me if you have questions.

[seadoogtx]

My fresh water drains are under the refrigerator behind a louvered panel. Four screws hold it in. Pull it out and you will see three lines that havea T handle. To drain them pull up on the t handle.

[Tireman9]

CAUTION

Different models have different drain locations. Some are labeled some are not. Some have valves with handles that turn and open the valves while sometimes you can turn the handles and the valves do turn and open.

According to my dealer it is the owners fault if the drain valve is faulty so good luck to all.

[Tireman9]

Jim here is the 22QB pump

You can see there is an inlet filter. The plumbing to the pump has TWO blue locking clips. To winterize I only removed the left one and left the filter in place as FR tied the electric cables down so I could not easily pull the clip closest to the pump. In general I like the ability to simply pull the clip and disconnect the water line by pulling the fitting out but this is Flowjet design not a FR feature.