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Old 04-09-2016, 01:57 PM   #61
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Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 950
Originally Posted by MNtraveler View Post
I'm not certain I fully understand your question, but the gist of it seems to be how to get water out of the water pump when the pump resides above the floor of the FW tank and there may be water in the line above that too (i.e., that will now flow back into the FW tank from which it could be drained).

Others have reported that in some units you can just pump out the FW. However, in most units discussed on these boards there is a FW tank drain line (and separate drain lines for the hot and cold water lines).

Even with those, the remaining water needs to be removed from the FW lines in one or both of two ways: 1) blow it out using compressed air attached to the city water inlet using a blow-out plug readily available on Amazon or from Camping World or other sources (there are at least two kinds of plugs depending on your air pressure connection so be careful there, a tire valve type and a quick-connect chuck); and 2) pump RV antifreeze through the lines using the inlet side of the pump (this may already be set up with a valve to switch to winterization mode or that valve can be added to your pump inlet line if it's not there now).

Personal preferences and local weather conditions govern which method or both to use. Around here in MN because it can drop to 30 below, we generally use both methods to get as much water out as possible and then fill every line and drain with antifreeze.
I am concerned with the lines from FW tank to the pump inlet seems to be a couple inches above the bottom of the TW tank.
I do not think that simply running the pump after draining the FW tank will ensure all water is out of the line. I doubt that trying to blow out the line using the "city water" connection will have any effect on the lines in or out of the pump as there has to be a check valve in the pump to prevent water going from pressurized lines on city water side of the pump to the FW tank, so there is some shorter line that "Ts" into the city water pressure lines from the pump somewhere. That line will also collect water that the pump cannot 100% clear out.

Only way I can think of to get antifreeze into all the lines is to:
1. Drain all lines & FW tank.
2. Close FW tank drain and somehow get a couple gal of antifreeze into the TW tank ( not easy with only a hose connection from outside to the FW tank
3. Use the pump to suck antifreeze out of FW tank and into all the lines.
4. Somehow get antifreeze into line on City Water pressure side of system.

I guess I need to build a holding tank (with a hose exit that connects to FW tank fill connection ) that I can easily fill with antifreeze then pressurize it to get antifreeze into the FW tank.

Live in NE Ohio. While this Winter wasn't particularly cold it can get below 0F so I want to ensure no water collects in low points of lines.

The system in the 2008 Freelander was much better in that it had suction line and all lines could get filled with antifreeze except the FW fill line.
Of course FR used electrical tape to secure some of the hose ends rather than metal or even plastic hose fittings but hey they need to save every penny.

I write a blog on RV tire application and safety.
Also give seminars on tires at RV events across the US. 40 years experience as tire design & quality engineer for major tire mfg. Freelander 23QB on Chevy chassis is my RV
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Old 04-09-2016, 03:34 PM   #62
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Posts: 1,265
You're correct about the check valve that should prevent air pressure from going "backwards" into the water pump.

Where possible, most people get anti-freeze into the hot and cold water lines by using a winterizing line with a valve on the suction side of the water pump that switches from drawing water out of the FW tank to pulling anti-freeze from a bucket.

If that is not possible for you, another alternative people have used is to pump anti-freeze from a bucket into the city water inlet using an external pump. This could be a pump that plugs into AC or DC power, or there are some that are driven by a power screwdriver. You would just hook this pump up to a hose that goes into the city water inlet and then open all of the faucets inside one by one to distribute the anti-freeze throughout the system.

Either of these two methods may not remove freshwater from the segment of line between the freshwater tank and the pump. If, for some reason, that line does not drain back into the FW tank (and I'm not sure why it wouldn't, but things do happen...), it may be necessary to manually disconnect that piece of line and dump the water out of it. I can't think of any other solution off hand, but others here may have additional ideas.

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