Fresh water tank drain valve - where is it? - Page 2

pobox1067 · 10-07-2015, 09:27 PM

Thank you Leprechaun. That seems to do it. Originally I had considered that maybe you were supposed to pull up on them and I did that a little bit but not very aggressively. (Didn't want to fill the coach up with water). But when I went back after reading your reply it worked.

That was my major hurdle but I still have a couple of questions. I wouldn't be asking if I hadn't already tried the owner's handbooks, etc but they were no help.

The compartment where you put water in has a lever labeled city water in one direction and the other direction is labeled fresh water/winterize. I hooked the city water to the city water supply and all is well. The rig came with a full fresh water tank so I haven't filled it. But it appears that you use the same (only) hose inlet and flip the lever to fill it. No problem. But if I want to winterize, it would appear that the antifreeze is going to go right into the fresh water tank. The owner's manual would seem to support this. Is this what I want to do? My fifth wheel had one bypass lever for the fresh water tank and one for the hot water heater. Not so here. And in any event, how do I keep the antifreeze out of the hot water heater? Is there some type of secret valve for this also?

I would again appreciate any help you could offer. Thanx.

Badlands · 10-08-2015, 07:49 AM

pobox, your drain valve questions, and the answers, have helped me greatly, too. I really appreciate the answers, and don't mean to jump on your thread, but also have a winterizing question that you or others may know the answer to.

My previous TT's have had a fresh water filter, usually located beneath the bathroom sink. The owner's manual for my Leprechaun makes mention of a water filter system, but like everything else in the manual, it's so generic that it's nearly no value.

I'd hate to miss a filter when winterizing, since that would guarantee a break in the system. Does the Leprechaun 319DS (model year 2016) have a filter system, and if so, where?

Many thanks to you and the others who know about this unit, and can perhaps answer this question.

To your question, during our walk-through, the tech told us the hot water heater bypass valves were located behind the panel beneath the Atwood range. I haven't looked yet, but the panel has four screws. In previous units with a similar set-up, I'd drain the low-water points (and fresh water tank), pull the water heater's anode valve and drain it, and then turn the two valves in the opposite direction from what they were, which prevented antifreeze from entering the water heater when I pumped the antifreeze through the rest of the water system.

Thank you!

Marksha83 · 10-08-2015, 09:16 AM

Here is a pic of the bypass valves on the back of my HW heater on my 2016 319DS. It is under the stove as badlands described. I am getting ready to winterize in the next couple weeks as well. Badlands I have no water filter unit on my 2016 either; I asked our dealer about this when we purchased and they said there isn't one.

Badlands · 10-08-2015, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marksha83

Here is a pic of the bypass valves on the back of my HW heater on my 2016 319DS. It is under the stove as badlands described. I am getting ready to winterize in the next couple weeks as well. Badlands I have no water filter unit on my 2016 either; I asked our dealer about this when we purchased and they said there isn't one.

Excellent, and thank you for sharing that info. On my prior Forest River trailers, they used a proprietary filter that went for around thirty bucks each (from them, or PUR), so I'm not disappointed the 319DS lacks one, but I sure didn't want to miss removing it for winterizing if they did.

Again, thank you!

pobox1067 · 10-09-2015, 11:36 AM

Thank you marksha and badlands for your help. I have removed the panel and found the valves. Do you turn both of them?

I am not aware of a water filter in our rig.

Still wondering how you keep the antifreeze out of the fresh water tank when winterizing by the non-compressed air method. Or maybe you don't?

Thank you.

pobox1067 · 10-09-2015, 12:56 PM

Photos

DocP · 10-09-2015, 01:58 PM

My setup looks identical to you picture. Coming right of my fresh water tank (under the bed) there is a valve that shuts off the tank from the rest of the water supply.

Badlands · 10-11-2015, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pobox1067

Thank you marksha and badlands for your help. I have removed the panel and found the valves. Do you turn both of them?

I am not aware of a water filter in our rig.

Still wondering how you keep the antifreeze out of the fresh water tank when winterizing by the non-compressed air method. Or maybe you don't?

Thank you.

In my situation, I'll be adding the RV antifreeze directly into the fresh water tank, and that allows me to pump it throughout all lines and faucets, until the liquid coming from the faucets is pink, so I know all lines have been winterized. With the outside shower, the outside kitchen unit, and the kitchen and bath faucet, as well as the shower, I believe five gallons will do it. I'll put additional RV antifreeze down each of the three traps, and enough in so I know I have a small quantity in the gray tank and the black tank.

I also am extra cautious with the two inside faucets, since they operate from a single paddle handle. Unless you turn those faucets to both hot and cold until the antifreeze comes out, the side you miss will freeze and break, and believe me, I learned this from experience!

Even in the years I used the compressed air method for winterizing, I still added a small amount of antifreeze to the three tanks, just as an added precaution. In the spring, I always sanitize my freshwater system using the bleach method, and that pretty well dilutes the antifreeze taste from the water. That, and filling the fresh water tank with fresh water after treating, and running lots of that water through the system.

Hope this helps.

Marksha83 · 10-11-2015, 08:13 PM

Here is what I just did for winterizing. I bought the white valve you see in the pic with the clear hose connected to it. I installed the valve on the 'In' side of the pump, when I turn the valve it will close off the flow from the fresh water tank and suck from the clear tube. Therefore no antifreeze in the fresh water tank.

I will put the end of the clear tube into a gallon jug of antifreeze and turn on the pump to push the antifreeze through all the faucets, etc. I will still blow everything out before this with compressed air. Maybe overkill to do both compressed air and antifreeze but better safe than sorry.

It's my first time winterizing an RV so I want to make sure I do it right.

Racer Joel · 10-16-2015, 12:42 PM

We also have an 2015 Coachmen 22QB. The drain valves are behind a grill under the oven. There a four long screw holding the grill on. I used a cordless drill to remove the screws, You will see three valves, there is a forth to the left under the sink and another one higher up for the hot water tank. Good luck trying to figure out which is which. There is also a drain plug on the hot water tank, open the pressure relief valve at the same time. I opened all four one at a time and used compressed air to clear them after they drained. I also open each faucet one at a time and did the compressed air dance with each faucet. A short drive around the block with the valves open seemed to remove what was left.

Drove our 22QB to Alaska and back from Columbus Ohio and it worked like a Champ. Anybody tells you the Alaska Highway is in Alaska and is a Highway Lied to you twice. Make sure you carry a Spare and check your tires pressure daily. With that said, can't wait to go back. 10,071 miles.

MarsMan · 10-16-2015, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DocP

I'm not trying to hijack this thread, but I'm having the same problem. I have the 2016 Coachmen Leprechaun 319DS, and I have looked (literally) all around the bottom, around the low-point drains, etc., and cannot locate a dedicated fresh water tank drain valve. I've been doing the camper/travel trailer thing for 35+ years, but this motorhome has me stumped with the drain plug location! The only way I have found to drain most of the tank is to run the water pump and open the faucets so that the water drains into the grey tank (which then needs to be emptied). There has got to be a faster way! Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

Perhaps this info will help- was useful for my MH

DocP · 10-16-2015, 08:20 PM

MarsMan: the information and pictures were very useful. Thanks so much!

Marksha83 · 10-16-2015, 10:20 PM

MarsMan those instructions are great! Where did you get them? Our Dealer didn't give us anything like that. One thing I want to confirm about our Leprechaun is there is no fresh water tank drain other than the low point drain?

Appears that the low point drain IS the fresh water tank drain.

Thanks!

Mark

DocP · 10-17-2015, 05:08 AM

Marksha83: I initially thought that as well, until I located a third drain valve on the left side of the outside kitchen area. It is very difficult to trace it back to its origin, but I believe that it may be for the fresh water tank, since the water tank is so close.

MarsMan · 10-17-2015, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marksha83

MarsMan those instructions are great! Where did you get them? Our Dealer didn't give us anything like that. One thing I want to confirm about our Leprechaun is there is no fresh water tank drain other than the low point drain?

Appears that the low point drain IS the fresh water tank drain.

Thanks!

Mark

Mark- Glad you were able to utilize the info. I too was frustrated by the lack of a coach manual and learn most of my stuff on this and the Sprinter forum. However, I made contact with Coachmen and asked for help .I figured they would have the details for our MBS based coaches. They sent me this info. I find them very responsive for a few things I have requested.

I was pleased to hear I can easily introduce the pink stuff into my system and keep out of the FW and HW tanks.... I did blow out the lines 1st...

Marksha83 · 10-17-2015, 10:22 AM

MarsMan thanks....did you just contact Coachmen by email or calling? That's good to hear they are responsive.

DocP thanks for that piece of info. I haven't actually utilized the outside kitchen yet but we are making one more camping trip next weekend and I plan to winterizing it before we leave the campground. Where is this drain valve located? I did see an on/off valve for the water line but didn't look for a drain valve in that area. I was going to slide under the rear area and look for a fresh water drain valve.

2013leprechaun319dsf · 10-17-2015, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pobox1067

Thank you Leprechaun. That seems to do it. Originally I had considered that maybe you were supposed to pull up on them and I did that a little bit but not very aggressively. (Didn't want to fill the coach up with water). But when I went back after reading your reply it worked.

That was my major hurdle but I still have a couple of questions. I wouldn't be asking if I hadn't already tried the owner's handbooks, etc but they were no help.

The compartment where you put water in has a lever labeled city water in one direction and the other direction is labeled fresh water/winterize. I hooked the city water to the city water supply and all is well. The rig came with a full fresh water tank so I haven't filled it. But it appears that you use the same (only) hose inlet and flip the lever to fill it. No problem. But if I want to winterize, it would appear that the antifreeze is going to go right into the fresh water tank. The owner's manual would seem to support this. Is this what I want to do? My fifth wheel had one bypass lever for the fresh water tank and one for the hot water heater. Not so here. And in any event, how do I keep the antifreeze out of the hot water heater? Is there some type of secret valve for this also?

I would again appreciate any help you could offer. Thanx.

To keep the antifreeze out of hot water heater, there is a panel under the stove, I believe, with two screws holding it on.
Take the drain plug out of hot water heater (don't have water pump or any hose with water pressure hooked up).
Once the panel it off, get a flashlight and look into the hole. You'll see heat/AC silver piping. To the right way back in there are 3 valves. Then all 3 90 degrees. That bypasses the water heater (to de-winterize, reverse the procedure).

Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

pobox1067 · 10-17-2015, 01:58 PM

Well, I got it winterized...I think. Thank you for everyone's input. Still a lingering question, though. I, too, received a prompt reply from Ronald Ross at Coachmen, along with the same PDF file shared by MarsMan. In the text of his answer he states with regard to the water heater bypass valves, " For normal mode all the valves are horizontal, for bypass mode they are vertical." However, in the PDF file, figure 2, if you look very carefully, the top and bottom valves are in the vertical (shutoff) position but the middle one is in the horizontal (flow-through) position. Further, the PDF file says to reverse the position of all three valves from the previous position. This is what I did and it ended up looking exactly like the figure 2...two off and one on. No pink stuff came out of the water heater (with the plug out) during the process. I hope I'm OK?

Also, I have the propane-only water heater (what a drag!) and when I pulled the plug there was no anode rod attached there or anywhere else that I can tell. Thinking about it, I guess that makes sense if it is not electric but I would appreciate confirmation. Documentation that came with water heater not helpful. Also, I know that even the propane models need 12 volt to run, but I wouldn't expect that to cause electrolysis...right?

Thank you all for all the help and comments previously.

DocP · 10-17-2015, 02:17 PM

This is the diagram I work off of, and I believe that it is consistent with what Ronald Ross told you.

pobox1067 · 10-17-2015, 02:51 PM

Thank you so much DocP! If only I had had that diagram a week ago. That is exactly how mine is set up. And you are right...it is consistent with what Ronald Ross told me. The confusion was in the terms vertical and horizontal. I thought he was talking about the orientation of the valve with respect to the hose. Now that I know he is talking with respect to the floor, everything makes sense.

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