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Old 05-31-2013, 09:28 AM   #11
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Water Hester question

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Originally Posted by 1nshort View Post
It got cold first night in foothills of Virginia, go figure. Turned on heater in the dining area and the AC unit fans came on. Heater cycled off but AC unit Fans continued. Used heater from rear controller (bedroom) same story but with rear AC unit fans. Has anyone asked Coachmen about this? Is it normal? Seems like a very strange operational mode if this is normal. On a hot day AC runs, room reaches temperature that is set, compressor goes off but fan continues to run on AC. Coachmen really needs to work on a good Coach Operations manual to explain how everything functions. Hot water heater DSI fault kept illuminating. I found the detailed manual on-line and found several reasons...had to adjust the air mix tube, gas was pulsing. After the adjustment everything was smooth (combustion) and no more DSI faults. I will post download for the hot water heater and a really excellent troubleshooting site.
Do you have an on-demand wh or standard gas-electric unit? I'm having a difficult time getting our unit to operate efficiently.
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Old 05-31-2013, 08:38 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by mvpmich View Post
Do you have an on-demand wh or standard gas-electric unit? I'm having a difficult time getting our unit to operate efficiently.
I have a gas/electric with electronic ignition. if you have the same, check a few settings that are critical to an efficient burn. 1. check allignment of the gas valve in relation to the air mix tube, it should be centered. 2. make sure that the air mix tube is 1/4 open, loosen securing screw and adjust (with pliers) hold it steady and tighten screw. 3. check the flat plate flame spreader and make sure it is perpandicular to the tube and centered. You know that the flame is burning efficiently if it is blue with very little to no yellow flickers and is not pulsing.
If you have a demand only the gpm (gallons per minute) on the water pump is critical. If you are on the park water flow is still critical and is directly related to pressure. Speaking about pressure, if you have a whole coach water filter, a clogged or wrong type filter will kill pressure. Buy only the type recommended in the manual. Do not believe the 'it's equivalent to your brand' statement. I did, it looked right, it fit, oh yeah, it cut my water pressure in 1/2.
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Old 05-31-2013, 08:56 PM   #13
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If I may... give your ACs a chance. We camped last July in Texas; no shade and it was a heat wave down there at the time. Temps hit over a hundred in the afternoon and yet I was comfortable in the coach all day long. Granted, the ACs ran all day and only shut down for short periods of time before restarting but they got the job done.

I have no issue with the AC set up.

Unlike heating where I'm not certain the bedroom thermostat does anything, when cooling the coach, the bedroom thermostat does control the AC unit over the bedroom.

Regarding the ceiling venting. You will find out, if you experiment, that the ceiling ductwork for the front and rear ACs are connected and that the units operate independently from the thermostats. If the rear AC is on but the living area AC is off you will feel cool air coming from the AC vents in the kitchen. Likewise, if the living AC is on and the bedroom AC is off you will feel cool air coming from the bathroom ceiling vents. So it is one network of vents/ductwork with two ACs connected.

I fiddled with opening and closing vents in an attempt to exercise some control over cool air flow. It's a work in progress. But again, I kept the coach down to 69 degrees in very hot weather (we were there about 5 days). I was happy with the service from the ACs and you know me, I get picky. One qualification.... Cindy was working in Dallas at the time and gone most of the day so it was just me and Miss Vivian (K9). I did run the living room DVR and TV though and they generate quite of bit of heat.

Roll
Roll,
I don't have a problem with the AC units. I think the ducts are running in a split phase format. There are certaint duct outlets that are strong font and rear that are directly attahed to one unit, and the same is true for the other unit. The weak ones are getting air passing through the non opperating unit. Of course if both units are operating and you have weak flow out of a duct or two then my theory is garbage and Coachmen has poor ducting design.
My thinking about a AC/Heatpump replacement, is not wanting to use propane heater, when the heatpump side of the unit could heat the coach on shore power. They have units good down to 30-40 degrees. Dometic HP units, that only draw 15 amps and work with th existing controllers.
Just a thought.
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Old 06-01-2013, 07:36 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by 1nshort View Post
. I think the ducts are running in a split phase format. There are certaint duct outlets that are strong font and rear that are directly attahed to one unit, and the same is true for the other unit. The weak ones are getting air passing through the non opperating unit.
Well that's interesting but I'm not sure I agree. I do not run my ACs just to circulate air (fan mode). When the bed room unit is off I still get air in the bathroom (very close to the bedroom AC unit) from the front AC unit. That front AC also pushes air out to the kitchen and living room of course.

On the opposite side. The bedroom AC pushes air out to the bedroom, bathroom and to the kitchen when the front AC unit is off. The overlap is obvious. My ACs run independently by the way, based on where their thermostats are set. At times they are both running other times it is one or the other but not both. We do not always turn the bedroom AC on actually.

The simplest and most reasonable explanation is that they simply ran ductwork throughout the ceiling and connected two AC units, one to each end of the system.

As for volume, it is true in both the scenarios described that the closer the outlet to the AC unit that is running the stronger the push/higher the volume.

A test might be to close all the ceiling vents, turn on one AC unit and then open only one vent on the opposite side of the coach. I'll wager you'll get some cool air out of that vent.

Those are my observations anyway. By the way I only noticed this effect because we don't always run both units. I just happened to notice one day when the bedroom unit was running that I felt cool air coming out of a kitchen vent.

On the other hand, I could be completely wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.

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Old 06-02-2013, 10:27 AM   #15
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Update on candidate for Combo heat pump/AC rooftop unit:

http://www.dometic.com/b97fb7b3-584c...758792f7.fodoc

http://www.dometic.com/9ad940dc-efdc...af0d81ae.fodoc

http://www.dometic.com/1f24ead8-6316...87ce6bad.fodoc

These look like a drop-in. Most likely woud have to change out thermostat to the system management one that is available.
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:31 PM   #16
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Update on candidate for Combo heat pump/AC rooftop unit:

http://www.dometic.com/b97fb7b3-584c...758792f7.fodoc

http://www.dometic.com/9ad940dc-efdc...af0d81ae.fodoc

http://www.dometic.com/1f24ead8-6316...87ce6bad.fodoc

These look like a drop-in. Most likely woud have to change out thermostat to the system management one that is available.
I can appreciate that the heat pumps would be nice, especially when you consider how much propane you burn on a cold night. And since you plan to do some full timing, it makes sense.

Changing out those units will be a job though and I don't imagine they let them go for cheap.

It does appear they use the same wall controls we have; or they look the same anyway, may not be I suppose.

Roll
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