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Old 10-15-2016, 09:15 PM   #1
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How cold is too cold?

Were camping this week in our Freelandder 23QB and noticed the bathroom was considerably colder than the living space. We had the thermostat set for 72 and were comfortable with the furnace cycling as I would expect when maintaining a temperature. It did get down to 40 outside. The bathroom however felt considerably colder and about the same temperature as outdoors.

Anyone know if FR tests their MH for cold weather limits? Wonder if they establish that no pipes freeze in the bathroom if the outside temperature drops below freezing.
Anyone know how low can the exterior temperature go before we can no longer use the RV plumbing? Are we required to leave the bathroom door open all the time? i can find nothing about minimum camping temperature in FR literaturs or a requirement to keep the bathroom door open at all times to prevent pipe freeze.

Related question. Where can I get the fitting shown in the winterizing instructions that fits into the water pump? Neither the local Camping World or our dealer, General RV, have the part. Is there a special part number for this item?
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Old 10-16-2016, 06:34 AM   #2
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I seriously doubt FR tests their units for coldability. Do you have a heater vent in the bathroom? I haven't had my Concord out in really cold weather yet. But suspect mid to upper 20's is about all it will tolerate without some adjustments. That is hitting those for a low and coming back up above freezing during the day, not sustained temperatures.

What part are you looking for? Camco makes this kit. I have used it on other units, haven't gotten around to setting this one up for it yet. I have also seen an outside port, similar to a city water hookup that would allow you to pull antifreeze in.

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Old 10-16-2016, 06:56 AM   #3
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We have a similiar situation with our Mirada.

I installed a small latch to hold the bathroom door open. I used a small plastic clip, but seen on one of the posts where the person used a small magnet door holder (I like the magnet idea better than my plastic clip.

Latch to hold Bathroom door open | 2001 Coachmen Mirada 300QB

Also, look at your furnace, it may be possible to add a hose to it to run warm air to the bathroom, then install a small heater vent in the bathroom.

I have several areas inside the MH that get cold because there is no air circulating, i.e behind and under drawers. I'm thinking of cutting a couple holes in the paneling and place a couple vent type covers over the holes to allow some air circulation in these cubby holes that never get heat, but have pipes running through them.
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Old 10-16-2016, 07:11 AM   #4
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How cold of temperatures your unit can handle are based on a number of variables that you likely won't find documented anywhere. How long you intend to stay in freezing temperatures has a big effect. An hour below freezing in the morning is a lot different than 3, 4 or a day at those temperatures. A lot depends upon where your piping runs or if the run through the underbelly is it heated. You also need to consider your holding tanks with freezing temperatures. Do they have the heater option?
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Old 10-16-2016, 07:47 AM   #5
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Use a small 7" fan that can be picked up at any Wal-Mart, Meijer, Target etc. (you might still find them on fall clearance), and use it to direct the warmer air into the colder areas. Large throw carpets make a big difference on warmth when camping in colder weather.


If the nights are below 20 degrees and the days don't get above the mid 30's it is too cold for me, but your motorhome may well allow colder temperatures.
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Old 10-16-2016, 07:58 AM   #6
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Cold is determined by the facial expressions of a male brass monkey!
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Old 10-16-2016, 12:17 PM   #7
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My 2008 Freelander had a heat vent in the bathroom. Allowed us to get it nice and warm for taking a shower. My mistake for assuming FR would do the same on the upscale and more expensive 2016. Looking for furnace vents wasn't on my list of things I thought FR would ignore.

As they say shame on me for assuming FR wanted a return customer on this discretionary purchase. When they scrimp on the big stuff like heat to a bathroom then you can just imagine all the corners they cut for stuff you can't see.

I am going to look at installing a fan in the wall between bathroom and living area and wire it to furnace power circuit.

RE water pump fitting. There is a special slip fit fitting that is retained with a blue plastic "U" clip in the inlet side of the water pump.

The FR instructions say to pull the clip then pull the hose fitting out of the pump. Then insert the new slip fitting that has a long hose that you stick into a jug of antifreeze to suck the antifreeze into the system. Of course to do the above you need to empty most of the basement so you can remove the 6' wall panel to see the pump before you can then try and connect into the system,

Here you can see just how much work room FR provided. The blue box like thing on the side of the pump is the clip but you can also see that there is no clearance for hose to be removed. In the picture I am holding a screwdriver and trying to loosen the screws that hold the pump down. Can't get enough torque with my fingertips so it is essentially impossible to winterize my coach per FR instructions. When I asked FR and my dealer I was essentially blown off.

My 2008 had a nice water control panel that made winterizing a snap. Connect hose from jug of antifreeze and turn a couple valves, turn on the pump and you flush the system with AF.
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Old 10-16-2016, 12:40 PM   #8
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Send a message via Yahoo to bob caldwell
When, and if, you get it apart add a section of hose and make that operation remote
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Old 10-16-2016, 01:37 PM   #9
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Our Freelander has some of the plumbing in plumbing chase along an outside wall. Also the fw tank is under the bed and adjacent to the rear storage (unheated) compartment. I insulated the partiion between the tank and storage with fiberglass insulation and added some 2 inch port vents through the fw tank compartment walls. The vents allow heated air to circulate into the fw tank compartment. I plan to insulate between outside walls and plumbing and add port vents to the plumbing chase in the bathroom behind the toilet.
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Old 10-16-2016, 06:00 PM   #10
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My bathroom is always colder than the rest of the camper. I put a 200W elec heater in the bathroom when the temperature is going to drop below 40F.
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Old 10-16-2016, 07:03 PM   #11
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When plugged in, we use two electric heaters, one in the bedroom and one in the living area, and our bathroom is cold unless we keep the door open. I am thinking about installing a louvered door vent or a through wall vent so the the temp will be more equalized. Or, add a heat strip to the roof air unit which would end the hassel of using the two heaters.
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Old 10-18-2016, 05:48 AM   #12
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REALLLY cold

It wasn't a Forest River product, but in an earlier life, we had to stay in Colorado one winter in our Dutch Star motorhome. It got to minus 18 one night, and didn't get up to zero for seven days. We used a lot of propane and a lot of electricity, but were comfortable in the motorhome. None of our pipes froze, but I kept an electric heater going in the basement. My son's 40 year old house had a pipe freeze and break that had never frozen before. The worst problem was that I had to pull out of the rv park and get more propane and the ice was very bad on the roads. That wasn't any fun, driving a 40' motorhome on rutted ice roads. But we survived.
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Old 10-18-2016, 05:57 AM   #13
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Depends where your pipes and such run.

I have low drain points under the camper that have water in them regardless of tank or city source. They are below the belly cover. They will be the coldest.

Running water won't freeze, so if you let a faucet drip that should help.

Water expands as it freezes - it depends where it freezes whether you will have damage or hot - some ice in a holding tank should be an issue - it can expand upward.

In the flexible pipes I'd imagine it would be OK. In faucets, the pump and a full water heater tank I'm thinking you'd have issues.
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Old 10-18-2016, 08:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Still Kickin View Post
Cold is determined by the facial expressions of a male brass monkey!
now that is funny. Thank u
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Old 10-20-2016, 12:17 PM   #15
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We've never had a MH where the bathroom stayed warm. Usually just keep the door open. Never had tubes freeze either and one time we were in -19 in Denver for 3 days. Just kept the furnace at 68 and crossed my fingers.


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Old 10-20-2016, 07:22 PM   #16
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I have the same situation with my 28QB. I hang a tarp behind the rear axle then toward the rear as far back as the drain line. I use bungee cords to hold it up front, rear, and sides to keep wind from blowing through. An incandescent trouble light hung inside tarp provides enough heat to keep tanks from freezing. Light on generally only at night.
Fresh water line outside has pipe insulation around it with a heat tape inside the insulation and on the supply riser.
We use a small electric heater to keep inside warm and rarely need the gas heater.
I have removed a cabinet panel to let warm air get to the water heater and supply lines more easily when in the teens or twenties.
Have not had any issues doing this even with snow and ice in the morning.
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Old 10-25-2016, 01:50 AM   #17
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Our bathroom stay warm or cool what ever the coach thermostat dictates. Funny threads. I spent 23 yrs above the artic circle.
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Old 10-25-2016, 02:00 AM   #18
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What do y'all do when it rains? Sorry
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Old 10-26-2016, 09:11 AM   #19
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Thumbs up Thanks

Thanks for all the comments, suggestions and answers. I guess I made a basic mistake in thinking that FR would meke improvements when designing a newer and more expensive version of the same coach. i.e. 21QB > 23QB

They had some nice functional features in the low cost entry level 21QB such as heat duct in the bathroom and external suction line for winterizing.

I guess the "race to the bottom" is just too strong for an RV company to consider continuous improvement as better than continuous cost cutting.

I know this has taught me to never recommend any FR product to friends. Have already steered a close friend away from FR for his purchase this fall as I do not want to be blamed for suggesting he buy an RV from a company with such a poor track record on quality and functionality.
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Old 11-01-2016, 08:59 PM   #20
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In mid September we were at Coachmen for warranty work on our Freelander 20CB Micro.

During a factory tour of the build of class C Freelanders, the tour guide, Dave Miller, mentioned that Coachmen builds their products with the temperature range of +20 degrees to +90 degrees as an average.

I bet if they built their products here in Minnesota, that +20 would be a bit lower!! Or not...
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