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Old 05-13-2016, 04:44 AM   #91
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Project: Super-Slider

Time for another project: installation of a sewer hose carrier. When we had our TT I stored the hose in the rear bumper... a pretty typical arrangement which worked fine but almost immediately the inside of the bumper tube started rusting... at some point this was going to be a real problem but we traded the trailer before that happened. The MH came with no such storage option so the first time out I coiled the hose into a 5-gallon bucket... less than ideal, and a real space hog in the plumbing compartment. Time for a better solution: the Super-Slider from D&W:

Sanitubes / Sewer Hose Carriers / NEW!! SUPER-SLIDER Adjustable SUPER-TUBE - DW Inc.

First step was to find a suitable place to mount the tube - I put it just forward of the hitch - tight up against the frame at a point where the camper's side walls are sloping up to the rear of the vehicle. This places the tube slightly above the side wall and fairly well protected... I ran a straightedge from the fuel tank to the "skid bracket" beneath the hitch and I'm well above that line. By setting the end of the tube back 8" or so I can easily snake the hose in and out.

The ends of the tube are screwed into the two rear cargo boxes... the box on the utility (driver's) side houses the furnace and water heater, so the next step was to remove the lower left hand drawer in the bedroom and the access panel beneath, exposing the furnace. I verified the furnace is sitting up several inches off the floor of the compartment so I wouldn't hit anything with sheet metal screws driven up from underneath. On the passenger side I used machine screws down from inside the compartment.

I needed some custom length 1/4" inside diameter spacers (I used 1/4-20 machine screws and #14 sheet metal screws)... turns out 1/8" black pipe has an inside diameter of .269" so I picked up some 6" long nipples to cut my spacers from.

The rest was a matter of cutting, priming, and painting the spacers, drilling a few holes, and mounting the tube. It's attached at each end, and rests tight against the frame (where I put some 3/16" self-stick foam to keep the plastic tube from rubbing directly on the steel frame). Being a belt-and-suspenders kind of guy I also strapped the tube to the frame with some 175# zip ties.

Very happy with how this turned out - the tube is large enough to hold the hose with all fittings attached, and long enough to accommodate both my 15' Rhinoflex hose and a 10' extension hose.
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Old 05-22-2016, 02:29 PM   #92
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Just installed a pull-out towel bar under the kitchen sink - something on the DW's wish list after our first trip (pay no attention to the glue squeeze-out, I hadn't wiped it down yet when I took the photos). While I was under there I noticed this... it's the hose going to the pull-out sprayer in the kitchen faucet. Anybody think this might have something to do with my low flow problem?
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Old 05-22-2016, 02:37 PM   #93
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Yup . I bet the flow increases once that is fixed. May have to zip tie the hose to a rigid "U" shaped form to prevent it from recurring.
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Old 05-22-2016, 10:58 PM   #94
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Now I have to crawl in there and look. Another todo. Thanks!
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Old 05-26-2016, 07:57 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duckogram View Post
Now I have to crawl in there and look. Another todo. Thanks!
UPDATE:
No problem with my hose. The problem on mine
was the spray/aerator screens. Plugged with lime
/calcium beyond belief. Also found a crack in the body of the head.
Repaired with bondic. All is well now. BTY, I always use an in-line filter.
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Old 06-19-2016, 09:39 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duckogram View Post
UPDATE:
No problem with my hose. The problem on mine
was the spray/aerator screens. Plugged with lime
/calcium beyond belief. Also found a crack in the body of the head.
Repaired with bondic. All is well now. BTY, I always use an in-line filter.
My problem did turn out to be the placement of the weight and the resulting kink in the hose. I moved the weight up the side of the hose that goes to the faucet head and all is well now.
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Old 06-19-2016, 09:48 AM   #97
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Project: Blue Ox Trac Bar

Yesterday's project was installing the Blue Ox rear trac bar. Aside from having to work in cramped quarters and the resulting contortions (this old body doesn't contort all that well any more) it was pretty straightforward. I did have to start out by chasing all the threads in the supplied parts that were threaded THEN painted, pretty much gumming up all the threads. After that all went well, but today I feel like somebody beat me up. Toughest part was getting the required 250 lb-ft of torque on the bolts holding the bar... working overhead and struggling to find good leverage and something to pull (or push) against. Thanks again to my son for providing the muscle for that.

So a question for those who've installed this particular mod. Have you had any concerns / issues with the chassis-mounted suspension bumper hitting the axle-mounted bracket? See the third picture - the bumper is above and to the right of the bracket. It sure looks like it'll hit the bracket - or the screw in the side of the bracket, before hitting the axle as designed. BTW - these pics were taken with the MH up on the leveling jacks... there's normally much less clearance (and suspension travel) than what's shown here.
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Old 06-23-2016, 06:49 PM   #98
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Which bolts require the 250ftlb torque? Also did you do the CHF on the rear antisway bar?
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Old 06-24-2016, 02:55 AM   #99
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Which bolts require the 250ftlb torque? Also did you do the CHF on the rear antisway bar?
The two 3/4" bolts that pass through the bushings at the ends of the bar. They're Grade 5 bolts and technically should be torqued to 257ftlbs but my 1/2" torque wrench only goes up to 250... that, plus red Locktite should be good enough. And no, I haven't done the CHF either in the front or the rear.


BTW - I do have an interference problem between the axle bracket and the suspension bumper... turns out Blue Ox made a design change to the bracket somewhere along the way, and my kit came with the old style bracket. I have a new bracket on the way from them that will fix the issue.
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Old 06-27-2016, 10:14 AM   #100
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I mounted my frame bracket on the top of the frame rail pointed down. Used a laser to line it up.

Beware: The lower sway bar bracket bolt (longer replacement) on the passenger side (spacer side) tends to loosen. I have retorqued 3x. This time it got loctite red.
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