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Old 06-27-2016, 09:24 AM   #101
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Yeah... my interference problem is with the sway bar axle bracket on the driver's side. See photo. The frame-mounted suspension bumper (above and to the right of the bracket) looks like it will hit the "wing" on the side of the Blue Ox bracket, and if not will definitely hit the set screw sticking out the side of the bracket. Apparently somewhere along the line Ford made some sort of design change and Blue Ox followed suit - the axle bracket no longer has those side "wings" and set screws - it's now just flat so it clears the frame & rubber bumper as the suspension does its up-and-down thing.

I got the old style bracket in my kit... which has the same part number as the new kit. Definitely a configuration management problem. Got my replacement (new style) bracket from BO over the weekend - haven't swapped it out yet. Of course I used red Locktite on everything when I put it together... so this should be fun. :-)
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Old 08-22-2016, 03:05 PM   #102
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More Atwood Water Heater fun

OK - a quick update. Got the Blue Ox Trac Bar axle bracket swapped out with the new one provided by the manufacturer. Works great, and while it "seems" really close to the frame I've noticed no evidence that it hits after two decent length road trips and the difference in handling is amazing. The rig is now a pleasure to drive on the road with none of that "wandering" feeling it had before. Two thumbs up for this mod!

Another update: I've had an ongoing dialog with Nate Hedges about the heat problem with my pursuit (hot bedroom & cold living area due to inadequate airflow up front). The result: I'm taking a road trip to Middlebury, IN in late October so they can fix it at the factory. Got an appointment with Bob Jewell at the factory service shop to fix this and any lingering warranty issues...

...speaking of which, to the title of this post. Just got back from a 3-day weekend at a local State Park and I now have a new issue with my Atwood LPG-only water heater. Originally I was experiencing intermittent DSI fault issues - the heater would light normally, then for some reason decide there was no flame and shut down with a DSI fault. That seemed to be a problem with the spark/sense electrodes not being properly oriented in the flame, and by slightly bending the bracket holding the electrodes I got that problem resolved. Now I have a new one. No spark at all, and an immediate DSI fault. Funny - now it can sense the flame, but won't light off at all.

But I figured out a workaround. First thing in the morning I have the DW stand by the WH switch inside and count to 10 before turning it on. Meanwhile I run around back with a grill lighter and when I hear the gas valve open I use that to light the flame. The WH will run until the tank is hot, then shut off. If it needs to relight I get an immediate DSI fault. But this gives me enough hot water for a couple of showers in the morning and "warm" water for the rest of the day for washing hands and dishes. Rinse and repeat the next morning. I have two more trips scheduled in September & early October, then will let Bob and the gang fix the problem in late October.

Enjoy the rest of the summer camping season folks!
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Old 08-22-2016, 03:43 PM   #103
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Water heater issue

...speaking of which, to the title of this post. Just got back from a 3-day weekend at a local State Park and I now have a new issue with my Atwood LPG-only water heater. Originally I was experiencing intermittent DSI fault issues - the heater would light normally, then for some reason decide there was no flame and shut down with a DSI fault. That seemed to be a problem with the spark/sense electrodes not being properly oriented in the flame, and by slightly bending the bracket holding the electrodes I got that problem resolved. Now I have a new one. No spark at all, and an immediate DSI fault. Funny - now it can sense the flame, but won't light off at all.


Hey pashooter, wont presume to know your exact situation, but I ran into a similar symptom with my 2016 Pursuit 30fw, turned out the flame sensor wire was losing contact with the sensor at the spade lug (corrosion) just enough to lose the connection and throw the error on the panel inside. I re-soldered the connection (after a clean up and field crimp with pliers to get us working again) and have had no issue since. just my 2 cents

scott
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Old 08-22-2016, 04:36 PM   #104
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Appreciate the info Scott, but that's not my problem. I've read that could be an issue and have pulled the spade lug off the circuit board to check that. All is clean and tight on that end, so my issue would appear to be elsewhere.
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Old 08-23-2016, 10:20 AM   #105
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Appreciate the info Scott, but that's not my problem. I've read that could be an issue and have pulled the spade lug off the circuit board to check that. All is clean and tight on that end, so my issue would appear to be elsewhere.
yeah, turned out mine was the spade lug to the leg of the sensor side of the brown wire connection, not at the board side. I like your lighter idea though if emergency hot water is needed and the circuit is acting up.

Im interested in a follow up report if you dont mind on what they actually do find on your unit? Trying to keep a list of things to watch out for down the road. knowledge is king when standing at the service desk trying to get a problem sorted out!

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Old 08-23-2016, 10:28 AM   #106
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yeah, turned out mine was the spade lug to the leg of the sensor side of the brown wire connection, not at the board side. I like your lighter idea though if emergency hot water is needed and the circuit is acting up.

Scott
Hmmm... I'll have to have another look at my heater this evening. IIRC the ignitor/sensor on mine has a pigtail coming out of the ceramic insulator and the only spade lug is on the circuit board end... but I'm pretty sure that's a black wire. There's a multi-pin connector on the board with various other colored wires heading off other places. Can't picture where or what colors without taking another look.

Yeah - the lighter trick only works because apparently the board is sensing the presence of flame even though it's not sparking. Otherwise it would shut the gas valve and I'd be taking cold showers!

I'll definitely post in this thread once I have a final solution to the issue. My factory trip isn't until the end of October, so it may be a while.
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Old 08-23-2016, 05:33 PM   #107
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Water heater issue

hi pashooter,

sorry I may have not described this very well, and I suck at getting pics at the time of the incident. went out and took another look and the pics (I hope they attached) are of my issue. The brown wire goes from the board to a diode (I believe) and it was the diode leg connection leading away from the board that was my culprit. As soon as I touched that while wiggling wires around the igniter lept into action in a dramatic fashion.

I pulled apart the spade lugs and soldered the diode connection to the lug, it was just a crimp from the factory, if the pic was better it would show corrosion at the lug and just a few months from mfg date. So far, no issues since. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-24-2016, 07:11 AM   #108
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scotttkd,

Thanks for the pics - I got home late from work last night, got distracted with other things, and never made it out to look at my WH but it's the exact same unit you have pictured. For future reference I've attached a schematic I clipped from a brochure on Atwood's site. The brown wire coming into the heater (top of your first pic) is 12V power from the switch on the control panel inside the coach. From there it goes through the diode-looking thing which is actually a thermal fuse... in case of fire or general overheating of the appliance that will open up and remove power from the unit. From there power travels through the thermostat attached to the tank itself, then to the circuit board. If any of those connections open up (as you described) the heater will "play dead" - it has no power to the control electronics so will do nothing when turned on.

That's not my problem, but definitely something I'll keep an eye on. I'm getting power to the board but no spark. I turn on the switch and the board calls for heat, opens the gas valve, but there's no spark so it doesn't light. Moments later it shuts the gas valve and lights the DSI lamp inside on the panel. The white ceramic thing at the bottom of the photo (with the black wire running to the board) is the combination ignitor / flame sensor. Although I'm getting no spark, when I light the flame with a stick lighter the unit will run until the thermostat says the water in the tank is hot and then shut down, so the flame sensor function is apparently working even if the sparker is not. I suspect at this point there's a problem on the board, but will let the factory guys figure that out come October.
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Old 08-24-2016, 10:16 PM   #109
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pashooter:

I will be interested in learning how they fix the heat issue, it is a problem and major flaw in the design.

Mike


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Old 09-04-2016, 04:26 PM   #110
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Toad Prep

Mikes92: will do. From the drawing package I received from Nate shortly after buying my rig it appears that sometime in the 2016 model year (after mine was built) they made a change to throttle down airflow to the bedroom and add additional ducting to a new vent in the wall by the dinette. Will see (and report on) what they do.

So... today's project was toad prep. I plan to tow my 2015 Jeep Wrangler with the Mopar factory wiring harness installed. This requires a constant 12V source on pin 4 of the 7-pin connector by the hitch... which Coachmen didn't wire. I picked up some 12 gauge wire and red corrugated tubing and started at the connector in the rear (pic 1). I routed this along the frame to the front of the coach and started looking for a source of power. Turns out there was a spare slot in the fuse block to the left of the driver's feet inside the cabin. First problem was getting my wire into the cockpit. I found a large oval grommet just forward and left of where the steering shaft went up through the floor (pic 2... bottom of the photo is forward towards the front of the coach). I couldn't get my wire into the bundle already passing through the grommet, so drilled a small hole off to the side and stuffed my wire up. Score! I'm in the cockpit!

The spare slot is an "always on" chassis battery powered position - perfect! It's the top fuse in the second column in my coach. Then I pulled the fuse block off the firewall and discovered a blank slot meant there was no contact in that spot to plug a fuse into. Poop! Google and eBay to the rescue - I found that same block (it comes in units of four fuse spaces that can be ganged together) with contacts for less than $10. Bought one of those (with contacts), crimped and soldered my wire, punched in the contact, and I'm good to go (pic 3).

Oh - and while I was at it - the fuse block as it came from the factory was just "floating" on four long self-tapping screws run into the firewall. Not tightened down on anything. I added nylon stand-offs under each screw so I could tighten them down against something.

The only thing left to do was update the sticker identifying what fuse is what. Printed an itty bitty sticker on some self adhesive label stock and added it to the placard under the dash on the driver's sidewall. Done!

BTW - I hooked up the Jeep and all the lights work as they should. Good to go.
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