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Old 10-31-2015, 06:11 PM   #21
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First (electrical) mods - aside from the LED lighting - (almost) complete. I just finished adding the Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C power protection unit and an ESCO LPT50BRD transfer switch to my coach. Not a bad install, except for the joy of working with #6 wire in tight quarters. And yes, the job is "official" as I did manage to bleed on it before wrapping things up - poked in the finger by wire strands and sliced by my knife stripping the LAST connection I had to make. Go figure. But I'll live.

Here are some before and after pics. I put the new hardware in the basement compartment where my power cord and generator outlet were located. The first photo shows the "as built" configuration... the generator outlet is on the left, and the junction box tying the power cord to the coach is on the right. The next two show what it looks like now - I used 3/4" liquid tight conduit just to protect the wiring... removed the generator outlet and used the box to junction a new run to the transfer switch. Removed the original power cord junction box and mounted the transfer switch to the right, and put the EMS on the back wall. The only thing remaining to do is string the cord for the remote monitor out the back wall of the compartment and up to where the "control panel" for the coach is mounted inside. Have to chew away the foam sealant underneath to do that, then re-foam once I'm done... a job for another day.

Couple of things - I chose not to wire the EMS with twist-locks for a neater installation. If the board within ever fries the remote does have a bypass switch to keep things humming until a replacement arrives. I also plan to drill a hole in the cover of the EMS over the "button" on top of the contactor and thread a 1/4-20 nylon screw in there. If the board fries so badly the bypass switch doesn't work, all I need to do is run that screw down to depress the button and hold the contactor closed. Also - the LPT50BRD uses DC relays, so "humming" shouldn't be a problem with that, but I have heard folks comment about the EMS relay buzzing... so I mounted that using rubber grommets through the mounting holes with washers front & back to hold the case off the metal back wall and provide some isolation.

Just thought I'd share. More to come.
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Old 10-31-2015, 08:28 PM   #22
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Nice, professional looking work. You obviously have KSA.
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Old 10-31-2015, 08:32 PM   #23
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KSA? But thanks!
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Old 10-31-2015, 08:40 PM   #24
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Old 11-01-2015, 05:42 AM   #25
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Ahhh... thank you sir!

One thing that threw me for a momentary loop were the screws holding the OEM hardware in place. They're self-drilling self-tapping sheet metal screws, and in the dim light within the compartment appeared to be star drive... but my torx bits wouldn't engage the head. On closer examination they turned out to be "star" alright, but an 8-point star! Never seen those before - and I didn't have a suitable bit to drive them. Poop! After a little back-and-forth with my son via text message he told me they were called spider drive... and to try a square bit. Presto! Worked like a charm - so well in fact that I decided to reuse the same screws when I installed my new cable clamps.

Learn something new every day.
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Old 11-01-2015, 05:54 PM   #26
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Today's project: installing an Ultra-Breeze cover over the Fan-Tastic fan in our bathroom. We had the dealer upgrade the bath fan as part of the deal. Our Flagstaff TT came with a Fan-Tastic fan with the cover... when I squeezed the fan upgrade out of the dealer it never occurred to me he would install the fan without the cover but at $35 or so wholesale apparently it occurred to him! What's the use of the fan if you can't leave the vent open 24/7 and not worry about rain? No worries - I bought the cover from Amazon and did it myself.

Most of the topside stuff on our coach is black, and I wanted to allow some light into the bath (sort of skylight effect), so I paid the extra money for a "smoke" cover which looks black on the outside but still allows some light through. Install was pretty easy - you remove four screws from the vent (two on each side) and install brackets using the larger screws supplied. Had to cut away the existing sealant, clean the area, then apply new sealant in the screw holes and under the brackets before attaching. Since virtually none of the new sealant touches my roof it probably wasn't necessary, but I used the two-part system from Dicor specified for my TPO roof.

The only issue I encountered was the washers that came with the kit (that go over the posts on the brackets beneath the hairpin clips) were so thick that the pins wouldn't fit in the holes in the posts. Found some nylon washers in the shop that worked just fine... and will never rust! And now we have an all-weather bath fan.
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Old 11-02-2015, 08:19 AM   #27
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Looking good. Surgical quality.
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Old 11-02-2015, 08:27 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duckogram View Post
Looking good. Surgical quality.
Thanks. My son & I do a lot of house rehab-type projects together. We have a motto: We do it right because we do it twice. No wait... that's not it. How about: If it's worth doing it's worth overdoing. It's one of those... sometimes both.

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Old 11-07-2015, 04:29 PM   #29
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Today's job: Winterize. Blew the lines out with 35 psi air and dumped antifreeze into all the traps. Adding an antifreeze inlet is on the to do list (I have the diverter valve and an exterior inlet fitting) but I have to relocate the water pump to make room for the valve and need a few miscellaneous fittings before tackling that task.

Also installed my Tire Minder TPMS today - I'd used this system for over a year on my pickup and trailer and have been very happy with it. Putting the sensors on the rear wheels was easy due to the valve extenders, but access to the front valve stems (both for my gauge and my air chuck) required removing the decorative wheel covers. That was an adventure. Nobody told me only two of the "decorative nuts" were actually nuts that needed to be removed to take the wheel covers off - I tried to remove all ten of them! After much frustration and a few choice words the covers came off and I realized I'd been spinning 8 empty shells. Thought they felt funny. :-(

Anyway - after airing the tires to the recommended 82 psi and installing the sensors I'm GTG. Mounted the display unit on the front driver's side window - after determining how far the slider moved forward when wide open. I think I like it right by the outside mirror where I'm always looking anyway. My fancy digital gauge said exactly 82 psi... the Tire Minder sensors read a little higher than that, but good enough to alarm on slow leaks or rapid deflation.
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Old 11-07-2015, 07:44 PM   #30
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I had mine (tst) mounted in the same place but after some time one or both of the inner duallys would drop off. Then I tried to the right of the back up monitor but same results. Now it is at the top of the drivers side window directly above where you have it now and have had no problems with it there. I think that when I convert to braided hoses with lug mounts for the duallys and both sensors are on the outside I will be able to move it back down...
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