Our pursuit 27KB

[pashooter]

Ducky,

Thanks for the "bad news turned good news" story. Wow. I will be heading out to Middlebury next Sunday (the 23rd) to place my coach into Mr. Jewell's capable hands - mine's going back to the factory to get the heat distribution issue inherent in my model fixed. I will be staying at the factory "campground" and flying solo... we have towed our Jeep on a couple of local trips but I'm not comfortable taking it that far as the hitch recall also needs to be done (which they'll also take care of while I'm there). I'll be content sitting in their lounge with my Kindle while they work, but don't want to subject my wife to such Spartan conditions for the three or four days the repairs are estimated to take.

They're also going to tend to a few minor warranty issues (principally my water heater problem) even though my rig is also now out of warranty (by a week at this point).

All of this was arranged by Nate. Looking forward to a positive experience... and many more happy miles on the road with a rig we love camping in.

[hammer55]

ducky sounds like you had a good answer to your dilemma, when they replaced my controller I had a deductible of 200.00, and it was caused by setting and getting wet from condensation, 2 months out of factory warranty,,,,

now I have a question for anyone, I have a mystery leak from somewhere, I have come out twice after a storm and my floor is wet in front of the dinette, I have checked the air conditioner and the duct work, the sky light and have found no indication of water coming through anywhere, has anyone else had anything like this, just thought I would ask for some help, I am at my wits end,,, thanks in advance

[scotttkd]

Ducky, glad to hear they got you sorted, we also had a good experience last month with Nate and the LCI folks fixing our slide. We had a roller issue as well, they were not making contact with the floor in the back causing a lot of binding. I also had Nate redo my alignment as it was off. Much better church now.

[Duckogram]

Mark,
Finding an entry point for water is difficult but
there are some things u can do to help pin
it down.

Is the coach floor where the water ends up
level? If so, the source is close. If not, seek
out the high side and search there.

Try a dusting of baby powder to see the path
of the water.

FYI, I was just on the roof yesterday resealing
the skylight for the second time! Glad it only
leaked in the shower.

[hammer55]

thanks for the info duck,

[jjd74]

Hammer I hate to suggest it but look above the slide on the inside of the coach. We have a recurring leak issue there, travels down the side of the slide and to the floor.

[Duckogram]

So there I was... I don't use the bunk bed but need to lower it to
route cables to the TV through the overhead. I am doing a full remodel
of the living area which includes removing the jack knife sofa, building
an electronics cabinet to house 12v Radio/CD/DVD unit and replacing
the TV with a 12v LED model. An inverter, solar and more batteries are
in the plan as well. Soooo, with genset on, pins removed and seatbacks
down, the monkey pushes the button and nada! Motor 1 short indicated.
Thats 1 green and 4 red.
Next, try manual override. Nope. Still up. Reprogram stops. Bad idea. Right side came down 1 inch and stopped. Will not go back up. Oooopsie.

So now i need to reset all the connectors. The motors are easy. Two screws per
panel. The question is: Where is the control box??????? Can't find that lil begger anywhere. Sure hope it can be accessed with the bunk up.

BTW, The bunk is up and pinned now. Whew!

[pashooter]

According to the print package I received for my unit, the control box is in the front passenger side overhead near the TV splitter / amplifier. Both are presumably accessed through the right speaker opening. Maybe yours is the same?

Really interested in seeing the details of your project - especially how you route wires in the overhead. Something similar is in my future...

[Duckogram]

Well, I never did try to find the control box after reading up
on all the tech publications I felt it would be useless. So I
took it in to local dealer that recently added FR motorhomes
to its product lines. The tech confirmed what I already knew.
Motor #1 was defunct. For a poultry $515.66 plus shipping and tax
for the motor, they replaced it, reprogrammed the controller and
its up and running. That price did not include labor!
So I just finished writing to LCI customer service about the
outrageous cost and poor reliability of the motor. We will see if that
generates a response.

[pashooter]

Wow. Ducky, a poultry $516 is hardly chicken feed. Sorry... I couldn't help myself, but seriously, that's ridiculous. I'd be pretty steamed. Let us know what, if any, sort of response you get from LCI. At least you got it fixed, but really?

[hammer55]

other than the controller, there is another control box,

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Duckogram

Well, I never did try to find the control box after reading up
on all the tech publications I felt it would be useless. So I
took it in to local dealer that recently added FR motorhomes
to its product lines. The tech confirmed what I already knew.
Motor #1 was defunct. For a poultry $515.66 plus shipping and tax
for the motor, they replaced it, reprogrammed the controller and
its up and running. That price did not include labor!
So I just finished writing to LCI customer service about the
outrageous cost and poor reliability of the motor. We will see if that
generates a response.

Not to defend LCI (heaven forbid!), but to get the kind of torque needed to move a slide-out, out of a little (maybe 2" diameter?) motor, I'm guessing requires rare-earth magnets, the key word being "rare." Hence the price.

Maybe someone knows better?

[scotttkd]

Originally Posted by Duckogram

So there I was... I don't use the bunk bed but need to lower it to
route cables to the TV through the overhead. I am doing a full remodel
of the living area which includes removing the jack knife sofa, building
an electronics cabinet to house 12v Radio/CD/DVD unit and replacing
the TV with a 12v LED model. An inverter, solar and more batteries are
in the plan as well. Soooo, with genset on, pins removed and seatbacks
down, the monkey pushes the button and nada! Motor 1 short indicated.
Thats 1 green and 4 red.
Next, try manual override. Nope. Still up. Reprogram stops. Bad idea. Right side came down 1 inch and stopped. Will not go back up. Oooopsie.

So now i need to reset all the connectors. The motors are easy. Two screws per
panel. The question is: Where is the control box??????? Can't find that lil begger anywhere. Sure hope it can be accessed with the bunk up.

BTW, The bunk is up and pinned now. Whew!

Dont know if its still an issue, but my controller for the drop down bunk is attached to the back side of the switch itself, remove the screws holding it in place in the cabinet, and pull it out, the controller and resets are on the backside. I also had an out of sync issue with my bunk and it was easy to fix once I found it and downloaded the tech manual.

Scott

[jjd74]

You know I have this same exact issue ducky. Same controller motor too.

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by scotttkd

Dont know if its still an issue, but my controller for the drop down bunk is attached to the back side of the switch itself, remove the screws holding it in place in the cabinet, and pull it out, the controller and resets are on the backside. I also had an out of sync issue with my bunk and it was easy to fix once I found it and downloaded the tech manual.

Scott

Scott,
The resets/stop programming buttons/emergency lift is on the back of the indicator/switch module. There is a seperate controller well hidden. If you go to
the PowerGear publications on the LCI website it is described and pictured on
a pdf. Hope you dont need to find it!

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Not to defend LCI (heaven forbid!), but to get the kind of torque needed to move a slide-out, out of a little (maybe 2" diameter?) motor, I'm guessing requires rare-earth magnets, the key word being "rare." Hence the price.

Maybe someone knows better?

Its not a slide out motor. Its a bunk lift and its only rated
for 100# capacity.

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by jjd74

You know I have this same exact issue ducky. Same controller motor too.

Hold on to your hat! There has been a development...

LCI has responded in a positive way. They have offered
to provide some relief for the excessive cost. I don't know
exactly what that will be and it will be a month before I
find out. Thats good news.

I still have some concerns as I offered to ship the defective
motor back to them or whoever manufactured it for investigation
but they expressed no interest in persuing the causal factor for the failure.

Since they do not want it, I will investigate myself. I can tell that the motor is not burned out but the final drive shaft is locked solid. This leads me to
think that the problem lies in the transmission gearing and not the motor. We shall see... tobecon

[jjd74]

I'll await your detailed report Ducky :-)

[hammer55]

well have bought a trailer to haul my smart car and have been adding tie downs as to fit for the wheel nets to hold the car on the trailer, finally got the trailer done and went and bought a adapter to hook up the electric for the trailer lights, and walla, the blinkers don't work, the trailer works when hooked up to my truck, so now I have to try and crawl underneath the motor home and see if I can find out where the wires are not making connection, got to love Forrest River and their quality assurance, never fails, it is always something, ALWAYS, and yes I know it has to do with the motorhome side, the adaptor has l.e.d. lights on it and the only power I get on my meter is for the running lights,, it wouldn't be that big of a deal if I were younger and could crawl underneath with ease,

oh well just ranting again, pay no attention to the old fool behind the plc

[ResQfrog]

Check the fuses first. Ford normally has separate ones for the seven pin connector. Also that seven pin plug is not the most water proof one. Replacing ours soon with and molded one with short wiring harness with heat shrink crimp connectors.