One of my bedroom reading lights is gone south. Led is dim and flickers. I took it off and opened it up. I think one of the little SMD resistors went bad causing my issue. Has anyone else had problems with these reading lights? I cant find any direct replacement for this particular model of light. May have to change out all four of them. Anyone else change their lights out?
Greetings Naviator-
I have not been on here for awhile and need to post up my repairs/additions (most are the usual).
I have not had any issues with the reading lights.
I have a question for all, has anyone had a roof leak above the front door? I have replaced the awning bolts with rubber well nuts and still have not located the source of the leak. My next step will be to remove the headliner in the front and see if I can figure out where it is coming from.
Greetings Naviator-
I have not been on here for awhile and need to post up my repairs/additions (most are the usual).
I have not had any issues with the reading lights.
I have a question for all, has anyone had a roof leak above the front door? I have replaced the awning bolts with rubber well nuts and still have not located the source of the leak. My next step will be to remove the headliner in the front and see if I can figure out where it is coming from.
I had a leak above the door in the front corner. When I head my headliner out, (for reasons stated in the mods thread), I noticed water dripping from that front corner during a steady rain. When I got on the roof when all was dry, I noticed the sealant from the main roof to the front cap had long cracks in it. I resealed that connection and didn't see any leaks afterwards. Been dry ever since.
Question for you now. What do the screws for the awning brackets bite into? Just the fiberglass roof? Some aluminum framing? A backing plate of some sort? Just curious for future reference.
Thanks
Thanks, that was one of my concerns was the front cap to roof seal but had not looked close yet. As for the awning bolts...the 50 self tapping screws used to install the awning brackets only contacted aluminum framing on 3 screws. I had noticed the screws backing out while trying to troubleshoot the roof leak(s). I replaced all 50 with #10-32 rubber well nuts, they are designed to form a seal and work on thin material when no sub-structure is present. I had to "carefully" drill the holes to 3/8" to install them. After 50 installed, the awning felt much more secure than ever before. The awning puts a lot of stress on the roof when extended, I felt these are a much better solution than what the factory used.
Following is what I ordered from Amazon for about $70
Rubber Well Nuts #10-32 .807 Length 3/8" Hole Clipsandfasteners Inc
Sold by: Clipsandfasteners Inc
Stainless 10-32 x 1-1/4 (1/2 to 3" Lengths Available) Pan Head Machine Screws, Full Thread, Phillips Drive, Stainless Steel 18-8, Machine Thread (100, 10-32 x 1-1/4)
The rubber raised the height of the brackets approximately 1/8" which allows water to flow around and not "pool" up on the brackets and cause a leak. I also sanded and re-painted the brackets while I had them off.
Thanks, that was one of my concerns was the front cap to roof seal but had not looked close yet. As for the awning bolts...the 50 self tapping screws used to install the awning brackets only contacted aluminum framing on 3 screws. I had noticed the screws backing out while trying to troubleshoot the roof leak(s). I replaced all 50 with #10-32 rubber well nuts, they are designed to form a seal and work on thin material when no sub-structure is present. I had to "carefully" drill the holes to 3/8" to install them. After 50 installed, the awning felt much more secure than ever before. The awning puts a lot of stress on the roof when extended, I felt these are a much better solution than what the factory used.
Following is what I ordered from Amazon for about $70
Rubber Well Nuts #10-32 .807 Length 3/8" Hole Clipsandfasteners Inc
Sold by: Clipsandfasteners Inc
Stainless 10-32 x 1-1/4 (1/2 to 3" Lengths Available) Pan Head Machine Screws, Full Thread, Phillips Drive, Stainless Steel 18-8, Machine Thread (100, 10-32 x 1-1/4)
The rubber raised the height of the brackets approximately 1/8" which allows water to flow around and not "pool" up on the brackets and cause a leak. I also sanded and re-painted the brackets while I had them off.
Excellent info dshome! I will add that to my improvements. I've never trusted the way the brackets are attached. I've fabricated awning supports and anchors for when the awning is extended. That's just too much weight and bouncing around on the roof.
Excellent info dshome! I will add that to my improvements. I've never trusted the way the brackets are attached. I've fabricated awning supports and anchors for when the awning is extended. That's just too much weight and bouncing around on the roof.
Thanks for the great info!!
I stress carefully when drilling, I used a new carbon steel bit. In hindsight, I think there are better bits for fiberglass that would prevent chipping or grabbing. The roof is thin fiberglass and the internal aluminum structure is there, just not where the brackets need screws. I will take some photos when the weather gets better here in Houston. I still have not tackled the blouse curtains yet, but have all the mounting rail hardware and sewing machine ready for that one. I also want to post up a sliding tray I constructed for that rear pass through compartment, I have gotten too old to climb half way in to retrieve items lol!
No issues with the reading lights, but some of my overhead LED lights are starting to have issues. I've not looked, but I'll assume the LED chips are surface mount. While through-hole are a LOT easier to repair, you can replace surface mount as in this video:
I stress carefully when drilling, I used a new carbon steel bit. In hindsight, I think there are better bits for fiberglass that would prevent chipping or grabbing. The roof is thin fiberglass and the internal aluminum structure is there, just not where the brackets need screws. I will take some photos when the weather gets better here in Houston. I still have not tackled the blouse curtains yet, but have all the mounting rail hardware and sewing machine ready for that one. I also want to post up a sliding tray I constructed for that rear pass through compartment, I have gotten too old to climb half way in to retrieve items lol!
Photos would be most helpful. No hurries though. Yeah, I hear ya about crawling inside the rear pass thru lol.
On a side note, where did you get the hardware for the lower curtain mod. I have fabric and industrial sewing machine ready to roll.
No issues with the reading lights, but some of my overhead LED lights are starting to have issues. I've not looked, but I'll assume the LED chips are surface mount. While through-hole are a LOT easier to repair, you can replace surface mount as in this video:
Photos would be most helpful. No hurries though. Yeah, I hear ya about crawling inside the rear pass thru lol.
On a side note, where did you get the hardware for the lower curtain mod. I have fabric and industrial sewing machine ready to roll.
Thanks Again
Greetings Naviator-
The following attachment is the original invoice for the curtain project. I posted a new thread about the slide with photos. (I probably should have added it to the "mods" thread, I will try to move it (not extremely computer savvy).
I also originally tried to post on the mods thread and got the same error code. Guess its just closed??
But thanks for posting the pics of your awning mount. Good info.
Check out the mods page, I sent Ken a pm and I think its fixed now. There was a check box at the bottom of the post that you could acknowledge the old thread and post anyway.
Linear Mode
