2nd AC unit install

[Harleyreb]

KansasFR3, thanks again. Just finished adding the ac to the bedroom. Really wanted to thank you for your post on how you did it. Love having the heater in the bedroom as well
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[KansasFR3]

Looks great Harley. Its definately nice to have that 2nd AC installed now. We're now ready to take on summer.

[Knoxie89]

Originally Posted by Harleyreb

KansasFR3, thanks again. Just finished adding the ac to the bedroom. Really wanted to thank you for your post on how you did it. Love having the heater in the bedroom as well
.Attachment 135835

Not to **** on OP, but your wiring seems to be much cleaner and not noticeable.. How did you run it differently?

[DutchRv]

Originally Posted by Knoxie89

Not to **** on OP, but your wiring seems to be much cleaner and not noticeable.. How did you run it differently?

I think from looking at pictures, the topic starter (Kansas) showed the pictures with the 'fascia boards/ceiling moldings' removed for us to see how the wiring is done. Surely when finishing up it looks exactly the same clean way...

Ordered my bedroom A/C at my12voltstore and will install next week. Excited!

(thanks again Mike

[Knoxie89]

Originally Posted by DutchRv

I think from looking at pictures, the topic starter (Kansas) showed the pictures with the 'fascia boards/ceiling moldings' removed for us to see how the wiring is done. Surely when finishing up it looks exactly the same clean way...

Order my bedroom A/C at my12voltstore and will install next week. Excited!

(thanks again Mike

Ahhh, makes sense. Didn't notice that when i looked originally.

[KansasFR3]

Yeah, the closeout paneling was removed to show the routing of the wiring. Believe me, the wife wouldn't allow me to leave it in that shape...

[DutchRv]

Originally Posted by KansasFR3

@yensidcamper, the interior cover that you see is a "non-ducted" ceiling kit. It has a fold down thermostat and a remote control. I originally wanted a ducted unit, but since the wife got this one as a present, there was no easy way to return the unit. The upper unit has a different part number depending if you choose a ducted or non-ducted unit since there is some difference within the electronic circuits.

Example (Non-Ducted):
15031 Upper AC unit (Black)
15021 Lower Ceiling trim

Example (Ducted):
15033 Upper AC Unit (Black)
15022 Lower Ceiling Trim

I find this place has the cheapest prices out there, though the wife used Dyers RV.
https://www.my12voltstore.com/Produc...15021&CartID=1


Wasn't too concerned about weight since I walk up there (250 lbs) and I was able to get a roof layout from FR showing the supports. It was a too bad of an install and glad its done. Also, to @ResQfrog point, So far, running both AC units together on a 80F day was like 22-23 amps from what I remember. That's obviously going to increase in 100F summer. So far, the Atwood was around 10 amps on high fan/max cool. But I expect it to be less than 13.9 amps stated later this summer. We'll see. I'm considering building a rack on the bumper to hold a Champion inverter 3100 generator that we have and having it all powder coated if I can't run both on the 4kw genset. And the current bumper is already showing signs of rust in Kansas!

As far as being quiet, the Atwood is about 51db on High, 45db on low, whereas the Dometic is 53db on High and 51db on Low. So its a little bit quieter on High, but quite a bit quieter on Low setting. I wonder how a ducted model would differ.

Kansas,

Do you have the rest of that diagram? I want to know where the front vent 12VDC pre wiring goes to, perhaps I can use that to pull the 120VAC...

[KansasFR3]

Originally Posted by DutchRv

Kansas,

Do you have the rest of that diagram? I want to know where the front vent 12VDC pre wiring goes to, perhaps I can use that to pull the 120VAC...

I don't have any wire diagrams/installation prints. And I don't think it would pull very smoothly either if you did find the wiring path. Its not like the factory uses conduit in the ceiling. They just lay down the frames in the styrofoam cutouts along wiring and glue in the ceiling panel.

Just start at the rear by drilling into the ceiling panel so you can fish the wiring into the LH duct work (if you have a similar closeout on the back wall as the 30DS). Then remove all the LH ducts so you can fish the wiring forward. Once you get to the fwd opening, just drill a 1/2" hole or so through the wood frame/insulation and then fish the wiring through that hole.

[DutchRv]

Originally Posted by KansasFR3

I don't have any wire diagrams/installation prints. And I don't think it would pull very smoothly either if you did find the wiring path. Its not like the factory uses conduit in the ceiling. They just lay down the frames in the styrofoam cutouts along wiring and glue in the ceiling panel.

Just start at the rear by drilling into the ceiling panel so you can fish the wiring into the LH duct work (if you have a similar closeout on the back wall as the 30DS). Then remove all the LH ducts so you can fish the wiring forward. Once you get to the fwd opening, just drill a 1/2" hole or so through the wood frame/insulation and then fish the wiring through that hole.

Thanks Mike, that's probably what I need to do. What's the key to removing those duct vents? I see that the ceiling part is screwed into the ceiling, how do you take the rotating part off? I tried but I'm gonna break m...

[DutchRv]

Got it, pull n snap.

With flashlight, the 'duct' seems to be a straight 'trench' in the styrofoam and easy to fish wire through. And the 28DS LH bedroom closet is right underneath that duct, easy enough...

[KansasFR3]

Originally Posted by DutchRv

Got it, pull n snap.

With flashlight, the 'duct' seems to be a straight 'trench' in the styrofoam and easy to fish wire through. And the 28DS LH bedroom closet is right underneath that duct, easy enough...

Good deal. I had to pry at 2 or 3 of those plastic tabs while putting a little pressure on the vent and it would come right out. It is a PIA...:-)