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Old 06-07-2017, 08:06 AM   #1
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ac humidity fr3 30ds

just purchased new fr3 30 ds. why such high humidity. have unit set to 72. even have a dehumidifier running. temp goes to 72, but humidity is 77. i had a rv previous. never got that high. humidity was 40-50. this is worrisome. any suggestions. very muggy and not healthy
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Old 06-07-2017, 08:29 AM   #2
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ac humidity fr3 30ds

Ac removes moisture from the air, not put moisture in the air. The high humidity is Mother Nature.

The longer you let your ac run, the more moisture it will remove. What is the outside temperature. If the ac only runs 5 minutes it isn't going to do anything. If you have your ac temperature set close to outside temperature, it isn't going to run very long and will not remove any/much moisture.

Set to ac to 70 and set what happens.
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Old 06-07-2017, 08:35 AM   #3
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Try to see that the air conditioning unit is sealed to the RV. Next, make sure there is separation between the incoming and outgoing ducts. Other than that, try to keep your door closed to keep outside moisture from coming back in.
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Old 06-07-2017, 09:11 AM   #4
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the rv is sitting on my driveway plugged in to electric. it is constantly running. i have it set to 70. i live in sw fl. i know it is hot and humid. i had a 2016 axis. it sat on my driveway with ac running also. i could keep temp set to 74 and humidity never registered oner 49%. i am thinking something is wrong with the unit. this rv won't last a year with the humidity so high inside. and that is with a portable dehumidifier plugged in also. i am baffled. i only have this 3weeks
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Old 06-07-2017, 09:31 AM   #5
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the rv is sitting on my driveway plugged in to electric. it is constantly running. i have it set to 70. i live in sw fl. i know it is hot and humid. i had a 2016 axis. it sat on my driveway with ac running also. i could keep temp set to 74 and humidity never registered oner 49%. i am thinking something is wrong with the unit. this rv won't last a year with the humidity so high inside. and that is with a portable dehumidifier plugged in also. i am baffled. i only have this 3weeks


If the ac unit is set to 70, does it ever stop because the temp drops to 70 inside? If so, it is working.

If it never shuts off, it either isn't working or it just can't keep up due to camper size or a leak somewhere.

If it is working properly but just can't keep up, it should be dry in there unless there is air getting into the camper somehow.
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Old 06-07-2017, 12:56 PM   #6
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'Plugged in to the house' Do you have 30/50 amp service or is it plugged into 110? I don't think the AC will work (properly) on 110.
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Old 06-07-2017, 12:58 PM   #7
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I had an air conditioner that wouldn't pump cool air... it was really humid in the coach and unbearable... the unit would be on but it was just moving the air. I took it into the dealer and they found the Air Conditioner to be defective...
They replaced it under warrantee and life is good again.
When the unit is working correctly, it pulls the temps down right away.
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Old 06-07-2017, 01:11 PM   #8
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'Plugged in to the house' Do you have 30/50 amp service or is it plugged into 110? I don't think the AC will work (properly) on 110.
Barry


Just to assist with terminology...

It is all 120 volts.

Your 30/50 or 110 statement is mixing apples and tennis balls.

50 amp is 240/120 volts. (Meaning both 240 and 120, depending on which conductors you utilize. Both (240 and 120 volts) are available at the receptacle.) A camper however only uses it for its 120 volts.

30 amp is 120 volts only.

I assume you mean 15 or 20 amp receptacle when you say "110". Standard 15 and 20 amp household receptacles are 120 volts only. (There are actually 240 volt versions but are special cases.)

The air conditioner, like all alternating current devices in your camper, is 120 volts.

A 20 amp household receptacle can easily run a 13,500 or a 15,000 BTU air conditioner. The breaker for these are 20 amps. Care must be taken to make sure you aren't running too many other things because you will trip the breaker on the household receptacle. No harm will be done though. A 15 amp household receptacle is pushing it for a 15,000 BTU air conditioner, but is fine for a 13,500 BTU unit. Still have to limit what else you run through.

Additionally, care must be taken to use the correct size extension cord from the household receptacle to the camper. Too small of cord for the distance ran will cause a drop in voltage which can be harmful to most everything, especially the air conditioner.
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Old 06-07-2017, 01:19 PM   #9
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Yup. Meant 120 but I was told by dealer AC would not function properly on 120??? I have a 28 ds with 1 unit
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Old 06-07-2017, 01:21 PM   #10
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Just to assist with terminology...

It is all 120 volts.

Your 30/50 or 110 statement is mixing apples and tennis balls.

50 amp is 240/120 volts. (Meaning both 240 and 120, depending on which conductors you utilize. Both (240 and 120 volts) are available at the receptacle.) A camper however only uses it for its 120 volts.

30 amp is 120 volts only.

I assume you mean 15 or 20 amp receptacle when you say "110". Standard 15 and 20 amp household receptacles are 120 volts only. (There are actually 240 volt versions but are special cases.)

The air conditioner, like all alternating current devices in your camper, is 120 volts.

A 20 amp household receptacle can easily run a 13,500 or a 15,000 BTU air conditioner. The breaker for these are 20 amps. Care must be taken to make sure you aren't running too many other things because you will trip the breaker on the household receptacle. No harm will be done though. A 15 amp household receptacle is pushing it for a 15,000 BTU air conditioner, but is fine for a 13,500 BTU unit. Still have to limit what else you run through.

Additionally, care must be taken to use the correct size extension cord from the household receptacle to the camper. Too small of cord for the distance ran will cause a drop in voltage which can be harmful to most everything, especially the air conditioner.
The other guy up there has a point... if I plug my 2016 30Ds into a 110V plug in my garage, the air will not work... the fan will but the cold air will only work if I'm plugged into my 30 amp RV plug-in on my RV pad or running the generator or at a camping spot that has 30 amp.
I'm not an electrician but the wall socket in my garage must not be able to handle the amp draw and the AC unit senses this and won't allow it to work to capacity.
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Old 06-07-2017, 01:23 PM   #11
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I meant 120V... dang I did it too....
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Old 06-07-2017, 01:50 PM   #12
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The other guy up there has a point... if I plug my 2016 30Ds into a 110V plug in my garage, the air will not work... the fan will but the cold air will only work if I'm plugged into my 30 amp RV plug-in on my RV pad or running the generator or at a camping spot that has 30 amp.
I'm not an electrician but the wall socket in my garage must not be able to handle the amp draw and the AC unit senses this and won't allow it to work to capacity.


So...

Although I doubt the ac is sensing anything, the only thing it could sense is voltage. If you have a voltage drop issue by plugging in to your garage 15 or 20 amp receptacle, the ac could sense that and shutdown. Never heard of that though.

If your garage receptacle could not handle the current draw, the breaker for your garage receptacle would trip open. The ac would have no knowledge of this.

If you have a 30 amp receptacle at your home/garage, it is the exact same voltage as the house/garage 15 or 20 amp receptacles.

You might have some problem with your garage receptacle. When functioning correctly, they can easily power a camper ac unit.
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Old 06-07-2017, 05:49 PM   #13
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well like I said, I'm not an electrician... the outlet in my garage will power anything else I have to run... weed eaters, blowers, battery chargers, air compressor, portable heaters...
my house is newer too... so I'm not sure what the heck is in the breaker panel but I do know that my air conditioner will not work on that plug in...

I have a Desert Fox toy hauler and it has an air conditioner and it won't run off of anything less than 30 amps...

I can run my air off either generators in the units and it works just fine... I can plug into that 30 amp receptacle and have zero problems...

so I don't know what to say other than the OP might have to get a larger receptacle....
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Old 06-07-2017, 07:54 PM   #14
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Yup. Meant 120 but I was told by dealer AC would not function properly on 120??? I have a 28 ds with 1 unit
It will ONLY run on 120 volt. And a 20 amp household circuit will run it fine, provided you don't try to run much else. This not causing the problem for the OP.
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Old 06-11-2017, 06:50 PM   #15
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almost same issue -- but different problem. have a 2018 29DS. X-package, 50 amps, 2 ACs, one in bedroom, one in "main" room. we live in south central florida. BR always felt "muggy" even with AC running full time. then we got a good rainstorm. water was coming in through that back AC unit -- ABOVE the gasket seal. hoped it was the gasket, tightened the four bolts, added sealant around bolts, yet still had the leak. it has rained almost every day -- so i got to experiment a lot. results: we have a hole/leak somewhere in the "contained" AC unit. when AC is on in a rainstorm, we get the leak. turn it off, no leak. with it on, we were running 75-80" humidity in the coach. off, we were mid 50s on humidity. the above the gasket finding of water, the leaking only when AC on, and the difference in humidity comes to the conclusion of the hole. AC on creates a vacuum of air - sucking in the rain water and humidity.

dealer is replacing the AC under warranty next week. they were great in working with us. sucks that it happened to a brand new unit. best of luck all my friends!

b
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