AC Unit 2016 FR3

[Edmo]

I see all the posts on the relatively poor AC units on the fr3.
Picking up a 2016, was anything corrected, does the fr3 really need a 2nd AC unit and is the vehicle AC that poor.
My current 2010 class C AC works great.
Hmmmm maybe a deal breaker.
Please post comments
Thanks

[Richard Tribble]

I had to have my AC replaced on my 2016 FR3 as it was not cooling. My dealer took care of it without any problems though both of us had to take the makers to task.

I've not used it yet due to the weather but previous 5 Class A motorhomes needed only 1 AC to keep it very comfortable. Expecting the same with this one.

[StephanFR3]

They have put progressively bigger A/C's on the FR3 the 2014 came with one Dometic 13500 btu, The next year with Dometic 15000 btu. Now the have a Atwell 18000 btu equivalent. Some people get a separate wired A/C for the rear vent. The 32 foot comes with 2 A/C's but it is also 50 amp. with a bigger genny. look through the old posts. Its been addressed before. You can also tint windows and use reflective auto shades. it helps a lot and is a lot cheaper.

[KansasFR3]

JMO, but it NEEDS 2 ACs. But it depends how cold you like it I guess. Our expectations is to keep it between 70-75F inside. But if its above 90F outside, it'll hover around 80F+ inside. We've tried the vent pillows and bubble insulation and that helps, but for $700 or so for an extra AC unit, we'll be installing one this spring. We'll just run an extension cord down to the power bay and everything will be good. You might see if you can't get the dealer to install a second one before you pick it up for a little extra money on top of your sales price.

[StephanFR3]

Just remember that the 4000w generator can't handle the start up of both A/C ' s at the same time.

[KansasFR3]

Originally Posted by StephanFR3

Just remember that the 4000w generator can't handle the start up of both A/C ' s at the same time.

Yeah, we know that. We may get a separate generator to run only that AC if we need to. But having two AC when we have hookups is about 80% of our needs. Even thought about swapping in a 5500 gen, but don't think its worth it. Best just to buy the Yamaha 2400 gen or the like and mount it somewhere on the LH side by gen/hydraulic jack pump...For now, we just want one installed so we can hook it up to a pedestal.

[StephanFR3]

Cool

[Edmo]

I really hope that the 18,000 btu is enough, my current class c 14,000 btu unit is ice cold in the hot weather. Don't want to buy this fr3 and have to throw thousands of dollars into it

[b1barnes]

Fr3 is very poorly insulated, thus AC does not work well in hot weather. The insulation factor is the key why some other units and TTs cool with smaller units.

Last summer in STL at 95 the FR could almost get to 85.

We installed two Atwoods and changed the Gen to 5500. Tinted the windows.

[MaltnHops]

I had FR swap out my Dometic for the Atwood and seal the front and rear ceiling caps. It's slightly better, but don't expect comfort in direct sun and 90+ temps outside. It just can't keep up.

I had a 30' Cougar TT prior to this and the 15K AC kept that thing like an ice box inside, even in 100 degree weather. I do think the insulation sucks on the FR3, but not sure how to improve it.


2015 FR3 30DS

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[StephanFR3]

It's really the windows, especially that gigantic front window.

[PeteAndEd]

If you camp in the desert or hot regions as we do... the single 18k btu barely keeps it cool at times. Wish I had gone with 2 ACs from the get go.

[StephanFR3]

Lot's of people have replaced their rear vent with a second ac it's not hard to do. But it has to be wired separate as the 4 kw generator can't handle the start of 2 ac's. So you would have to have separate plugs at pedestal.

[PeteAndEd]

Our 35' Bounder was a 30 amp unit and had something called "Shedding" in the controls which swapped back and forth between the two ACs. I wonder if something similar could be added to an existing FR3 wiring scheme...

Also, do you know if the rear vent area was pre-wired for a 2nd AC unit in a 2015 30DS by chance? I don't see any spare 110v cables in the junction area.

[KansasFR3]

Our 2015 30DS doesn't have any 120v wiring up there, just 12v wiring for vent fans. I've recently took down the shroud last weekend and cut out the foam to install a ducted AC this spring. From what people have done in the past, they've routed the wires through the ducting to the back wall, then over to the closet and down to the electrical bay. If you happen to have the Atwood AC unit, they say you can run 2x13,500 units on a 4kw gen. I don't know how reliable it would be at high altitude/high temps. For now, I think we'll be going with an Atwood 13.5 ducted unit in the rear and see what sort of amp draw it actually shows. Then maybe, we'll swap out the 15k Domestic unit down the road if we think it would actually run on the 4kw gen set. Would be nice....

[PeteAndEd]

Please keep us posted after your install, how it works, pitfalls to avoid, etc. Thinking we may do something similar in the future. Thanks!!!

[b1barnes]

Replaced the 15000 Dometic in my 2015 30DS with the 18000 Atwood in front, ducted and a non-ducted in the bedroom. Was not hard to run the wires through the ceiling panels. Changed the gen to 5500 and wiring to 50 Amp. Last year in St. Louis in August, was enough for me. 95 out and the coach was 88 inside. 5500 gen is so much quieter.. Ran the exhaust up front, just behind the front tire.

The Atwood's are so much more quiet and I like the heat pump feature.

[PeteAndEd]

Can we ask... What did all that roughly cost?

[b1barnes]

AC units, Gen and wiring was roughly $6K with auto change over box. Only paid 79K new for the FR3 30DS new and it is paid for, so considering all we would have to buy to upgrade and that this unit is perfect for our use. No brainer.