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Old 01-31-2015, 07:36 AM   #1
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adding 2nd air conditioner to FR3 30DS

I am wondering if anyone has added a second air conditioner to their bedroom in their FR3 30DS. My experience traveling out west in 95+ degree heat last summer was my single 13,500 BTU unit air conditioner could not keep our RV at a comfortable 78 degrees in the heat of the day even with all shades pulled down and vent insulators installed. As a result I have purchased the new Dometic 15,000 BTU Brisk II air conditioner top unit only (meaning no heat) to replace the factory installed 13,500 BTU in the main cabin. I am installing the 13,500 BTU unit in the bedroom and adding an ADM (air distribution box) ceiling assembly (vented ceiling mount blower) controller as it will not have a wall mounted thermostat or be a ducted installation.

I anticipate the most difficult part of the installation will be snaking the electrical wires inside, across the bedroom ceiling and down the rear corner and come out at the bottom basement where the 30 amp receptacle is located. I am planning the rear bedroom AC installation will be on a separate dedicated 20 AMP GFI service. I will have two separate independent feeds, one being the 30 AMP coach service and the new independent 20 AMP GFI service dedicated to the rear bedroom air conditioner for a total of 50 AMP's service.

My questions are:
Has anyone completed a 2nd AC installation in the bedroom and offer any wiring tips especially snaking the wires across the inside ceiling and down to the basement?
Not sure if I should ask about this but: Should I be thinking of second 30 AMP GFI line instead of a 20 AMP GFI service? The 13,500 BTU AC unit is rated at 20 AMPS and should successfully be serviced by a 20 AMP line from the pedestal.

Any input is much appreciated. Thanks
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Old 01-31-2015, 01:58 PM   #2
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One thing that needs to be addressed. I'm told you won't be able to run both ac units at the same time. Also told that at 5500 gen is needed for 50 amp service.
Can anyone else verify this?


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Old 01-31-2015, 09:36 PM   #3
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I've heard that as well, but certainly am not an expert.


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Old 01-31-2015, 09:56 PM   #4
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Drivmsafe, you are correct about not being able to run both AC units off the Onan 4000 watt gen or the 30 AMP RV circuit. As you pointed out the FR3 is not capable of accepting anything higher than 30 AMP's to run the standard AC unit and the appliances. The only way I know to get around that is to use an independent 20 AMP circuit from the RV park pedestal. Almost all newer parks provide separate independent 50, 30 and 20 AMP circuits at the pad. The 2nd AC unit must use its own separate 20 AMP circuit to power it provided by an outside source. This means when you are at an RV park you must connect the RV to a 30 AMP circuit as you normally would and in addition connect an extension cord to the independent 20 AMP outlet on the pad pedestal that directly feeds the 2nd AC unit in the bedroom. The 2nd AC could also be powered by a portable generator if you were boondocking.
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Old 01-31-2015, 10:36 PM   #5
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Installation of a separate junction box, mounted on the side of the RV. Special connector for that special extension cord used only once in a while..... I like what your saying...
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Old 02-01-2015, 01:00 PM   #6
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All sounds good PDG but, what if you're dry camping/boondocking?
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Old 02-04-2015, 10:55 AM   #7
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Did you verify the front unit is only 13500---- was told mine was too so verifited on unit itself and it is a 15000----so i plan on putting a 13500 only on the rear
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Old 02-04-2015, 10:58 AM   #8
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Plan on running wire from top vent over 6inches to airduct, inside AIRDUCT to rear PANEL AT TOP OF CEILING ALONG THE BACK and over and in panel to closet and then down think this will be fairly easy another fr3 owner gave me this idea
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Old 02-04-2015, 01:23 PM   #9
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My FR3 is a 2014 and like you I think it is a 13,500. I already purchased the Dometic Brisk II 15,000 unit for the front. If the original is larger than 13,500, I look at it as a bonus. My last summer travel experience leads me to think that in 100 to 110 degree temperatures the RV will need all the BTU's we have to keep comfortable in the heat of the day.

Yes, I saw Jerseyboy's post with the wiring idea to the stapled panel at the rear window . Thanks to him, it should make the wiring job much easier. I will be working on the installation around the 17th of Feb so at that time I will be opening everything up and running the wire. I most likely be running the wire into a 20 AMP breaker box mounted in the basement near the 30 AMP receptacle that powers the coach from the gen. My thought is it will be a neater install and won't have to disturb the coach breaker box. I'm always afraid of Murphy's law. What is your thoughts? I am open to ideas as this is new for me.
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Old 02-04-2015, 03:34 PM   #10
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I'll just throw this out there, but why not use a 9k but Coleman in the like and run them both off the generator? It could be wired to a separate junction box, and you would have to be careful about your power management, but I think it could be done.
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