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Old 07-08-2015, 09:47 PM   #11
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I don't think running the chassis motor charges the house batteries. I've been unable to find a feed from the f53 alternator that runs to the coach battery center.

2014 FR330 DS

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Old 07-08-2015, 10:31 PM   #12
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Location: Keizer Oregon
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My batteries weren't dead.... only asleep I guess.... after running the motor on the coach for a couple seconds, I heard a clicking sound.... I left it run for a couple minutes until the temps on the engine came up then turned it off... I went back and my batteries read 75% charged.... everything was functioning properly as it had two weeks prior.
So I left and locked the coach...
After work I returned and looked at the battery levels... they still read the same 75%. There is no way running the motor for a few minutes charged up the batteries to 75% and it held for 6 hrs with no drop.
I understand the drop if I'm pulling amps for a long time..... but that little sensor (LP) should not have drained a brand new battery in that short of time IMO....

I take my toy hauler hunting for weeks on end, and I leave it alone while I backpack out hunting... it sits while not plugged in for two weeks and it doesn't drain the battery...
this was a weird clicking sound, it sounded like the click you get when you push the toggle switch to cut the batteries.... the sound comes from the same place....
I don't think the dealer / mechanic / tech is right

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Old 07-09-2015, 08:18 AM   #13
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Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 5,652
Dead battery(s) after sitting a few weeks is a very common complaint on
all RV chat groups.
We've given our opinions and all agree you need to shut off the battery
disconnect switch if you have one or install one if you don't.
Those little LEDs on the wall that say your batteries are 100% or 75%
are notoriously inaccurate. Turn on something with a light load such
as a single light. Place a decent digital meter across the battery or
across the + and - in your fuse box. Read the voltage.
There are charts out that show % charge vs voltage.
Remember that a battery at 12.0 volts is slightly less than 50% charge.

As others have suggested you can pull fuses one at a time and place a
digital Amp meter across the fuse holder. The meter will show the amps
or miliamps draw of that circuit.
The LP detector is not the only "phantom" load.
The onboard charger itself is a draw when you are not plugged in.
What ever that relay you heard clicking was it was a power draw too.

I've installed battery switches in every one of my last 4 trailers. Those
switches save me a bunch of problems. If you install your switch where
you can access it from outside the coach you can then turn it on and
get your steps to work when you want to go inside!
Good Luck
Happy Trails!!
Dan & Rita D
2004 5.3L Silverado 1500 ext. cab 2WD
1999 Suzuki Intruder Motorcycle
Blue Ox WD hitch, AirLift load levelers

Camping days 2010-53, 2011-47, 2012-41,
2013-41, 2014-31, 2015-40, 2016-38
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Old 07-09-2015, 08:41 AM   #14
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Twojump what are you using to judge how charged the batteries are, if it is the panel with the 4 lights that comes with the camper, that is very inaccurate. if you get 3 lights your voltage could be as low as 12.1 v which is almost a dead battery.

Vibe 6501
1 Prospector Canoe
2 Mtn. Bikes
4 Hiking Boots
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:04 AM   #15
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Location: Keizer Oregon
Posts: 165
I'll get the batteries checked out today...
I will turn off the batteries when I leave for more than a day or so I guess... kind of weird to think that an LP sensor and a internal clock or whatever could pull that many amps to kill a 100% charged new battery but what the hell do I know... I leave my Tahoe sitting for months and it fires up just fine.
I might buy a few extra to have installed so I have a spare or two.
I did hook up the electrical last night to charge the system, I'll run out there today to see if it acts normal or not.
Thanks for the opinions guys!
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Old 07-09-2015, 01:22 PM   #16
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 48
Happens to my tt when I don't turn the battery disconnect. I assume the smoke and Co detectors are the drain
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Old 07-09-2015, 01:55 PM   #17
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Location: Wheeling, IL
Posts: 129
It appears that this discussion is about a motor home but is the same true for a trailer? I did a test run with my trailer one Friday-Saturday (it was on electric then) and left the following Friday for a longer weekend trip. By Sunday morning the battery was dead. I did not have access to electric. My unit will be sitting in the storage place until I use it - which may be several weeks. From what I'm reading, it appears that my battery will be dead when I go to use the trailer. Is there a disconnect switch on trailers too?
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Old 07-09-2015, 02:16 PM   #18
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Sulphur Springs, TX
Posts: 40
Disconnect switch

On ROO hybrid TT there is a disconnect switch. My understanding is that it disconnects everything except the electric jack and the brakes system (which have no fathom power) and are connected directly to the battery.
Phil & Carla Kenley
2014 Rockwood ROO 21ss
2013 Ford 150 Platinum Crew Cab

(Looking at the Georgetown 329DS)
Nights camped in 2011/16; 2012/15; 2013/48;
2014/10; 2015/101 2016/55 yr to date
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Old 07-09-2015, 02:29 PM   #19
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Any idea where I would look for it? I have a 2015 Salem CruiseLite.
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Old 07-09-2015, 03:08 PM   #20
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Location: Ontario, California
Posts: 654
Most all RVs and any correctly wired 7 pin connector for the TT will charge the coach batteries. The problem is starting the engine and running it for 20 minutes does not do much towards such charge. As soon as the automotive battery charges up the alternator voltage back and there is very little going to the TT or house batteries. To bore you by jumping back on my soapbox, add one or 200 watts of solar to the roof and never worry about turning off your house batteries again. 200 watts of solar and a really good quality charge controller and your batteries are going to last a lot longer and always be at tip top charge. Deep discharge and overcharging or boiling the batteries are a battery's worst enemy. As often cited here, not only are the tiny static loads that we know about, always draining the battery, when the house just turned on the radio has a static load, if the refrigerator is running even on gas it has a static load and God forbid if you have the style of refrigerator that goes gas, 110, 12 volt. Well on 12 volts I'm told that thing can pull 10 to 20 amps and kill your batteries overnight. The 12 Volt feature was, I guess intended to allow it to run while you were on the highway so you could turn your gas off and not run the generator but most coaches today have done away with the 12 Volt feature. because it was such a battery drain leading to no end of problems.

Easy answer, a full battery cut off switch. More expensive but nicer answer add solar panels on a good controller then service your battery's about every 3 or 4 months and you can leave it hooked up year round. Except I guess those people that get a ton of snow. Sorry for you I don't know how to deal with that.

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