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Old 07-09-2015, 04:16 PM   #21
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1.x4...the tech was right.
2. The disconnect switch does NOT disconnect everything. Get or borrow a DC clamp meter on your positive battery lead with the switch off and you'll KNOW how much parasitic drain you have. Pull fuses to see where the drain is coming from.
3. To avoid dead batteries in the future...disconnect the black battery cable AT the battery terminal...or use one of these to accomplish the same.

4. You will NEVER know the state of charge in your battery from the battery panel in the coach. You must WAIT 24 hours AFTER charging a DISCONNECTED battery to see actual state AT the batter with a multimeter. The easier but $150 solution is a TRUE battery monitor like those from Trimetric and Victron.

5. If your batteries were dead flat...chances are you damaged them and they won't last as long as they should. A flat battery should be charged for at least 6-8 hours by plugging in the coach in order to get a full charge.

2015 Georgetown 280DS
2014 Vespa LX150 2014 StellaAuto 125
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Old 07-09-2015, 04:38 PM   #22
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Location: Keizer Oregon
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Here's the answer I got from the tech that looked at my coach today...

The batteries were not disconnected so the system discharged... when it went to less than it takes to activate the slide out steps, the solenoid kicked out when I opened the door... that turned the power off.
When I started the coach, it read power was charging since the coach batteries will charge off the engine... that was the 2nd click I supposedly heard.
So they charged to 75% in 4 minutes (I have a bridge I want to sell ya) and right before I left, I turned the battery disconnect off for the night... and charge held until this morning at 75% (I'll even sell the property on both sides of the bridge)

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Old 07-09-2015, 07:15 PM   #23
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Bridge is a bad deal, but if the Automotive battery was low enough or the connection good enough to let the regulator on the alternator open up AS NEEDED for the dead coach batteries, A BIG BUMP is possible as that alternator may put out over 100 amps wide open until the regulator starts to throttle it back. A big SHOT like that in to a really low battery can be a big bump, but in a few minutes the alternator would taper it back to a reasonable charge level and then probably take hours to top it off

BUT I GO WITH the panel in the coach reads with a very LIBERAL EYE and sees what it wants to see or wants you to see. My waste tank gauges often say two-thirds full when I just ran them dry from the third clear water flush. Maybe they are trying to sell me a bridge too.
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Old 07-09-2015, 09:30 PM   #24
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Go solar, problem solved

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Old 07-09-2015, 09:41 PM   #25
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Boy I wouldn't touch this thread with a 10 foot pole. {well I guess I just did}
There are 10 types of people in the world.
Those that know binary, and those that don't.
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Old 07-10-2015, 08:54 AM   #26
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My propane safety solenoid failed and needed to be replaced. During the analysis I did of the failure, I discovered that the solenoid drew 1A!. Leaving the RV for eight days with the CO detector active would completely drain the coach batteries. This led me to do some additional checking and I discovered that the Dometic fridge has a heating strip around the door seal that also draws around 1A.

At the recommendation of the RV service technician that replaced the solenoid, I cut the power line from the propane detector to the solenoid and installed a shutoff switch in it. The switch is located next to the propane detector. The heating strip in the fridge is powered on the same circuit as the interior light so I just disconnect that circuit at the fridge control panel when I'm boondocking.

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Old 07-10-2015, 09:30 AM   #27
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Batteries Dead after 2 weeks

Great info! Thanks

I understand the cut off switch at the propane tank. But I don't think I would have the patience to run the cutoff switch to the interior panel. Was that difficult to do? I'd might install one but would probably place it in the LP tank bin close the the solenoid.

I'm even more intrigued by the Dometic fridge heat element! Tells me that the parasitic drain on the DC from the fridge when on propane used is even more than I suspected. Previously I assumed the only draw was from the fridge mounted control panel.

Excuse my ignorance. Why would they place a heating element in the fridge door?
What are the effects of cutting it off?

Last. Other posters in this thread indicate that the alternator of the chassis does charge the coach batteries at some point. Possibly while at high speed, yet I have been unable to proove there is a connection other than the spring loaded booster switch. I have a clamp on current meter but have no way of using it while actually driving the coach.

I think the best way to prove it would be to find an FR3 owner who has a Trimetric meter installed and a co pilot who can read it while underway with a heavy load on existing dc appliances such as an exhaust fan.

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