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Old 06-08-2017, 09:30 PM   #1
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Cab AC not running compressor.

Hi everyone. I am new to the forum, and new to motorhome ownership. My wife and I purchased a used 2015 FR3 30 DS (F53 V10). it has about 24K miles, and I am sorting through this and that, getting it in shape.
The Cab AC was not cooling well, it would start ok, then get warmer. I checked pressures with my manifold gauge and the low side was running about 20psi, the high side was running 375psi. Way too high, and indicating a restriction perhaps. I pulled out the Freon, and found the Filter-Dryer was plugged. The dryer was replace along with O-rings, pulled a vacuum, no leaks, so the system was recharged with 2lbs R134a. I had to pull and jumper the AC Clutch relay to get the compressor to engage. After recharging, the pressures on a 90 deg day are 34 low side, and 300 high side. The system cools great, pressures are ok now. However the compressor will not run without jumping the relay. I checked all fuses, and ran an OBD2 scan (no codes). The Freon Containment and high pressure switch seem ok, though it is hard to tell how to check them.
the schematic shows the PCM and the containment switch as the only devices in between the AC Control, and the compressor relay. I'm stumped. It worked before....
any advice is appreciated.
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Old 06-08-2017, 10:12 PM   #2
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Cab AC not running compressor.

I would look hard at the CCOT clutch cycling switch. It will be on the low side near the accumulator. This is what cycles on refrigerant pressure. You don't say what RPM or conditions you had when testing the a/c system. The 300 head sounds a good bit too high.

Btw. What had the drier stopped up? Metal? Plastic? Rubber ? Desiccant?


Does it have an orifice tube? Did you replace?
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Old 06-08-2017, 10:51 PM   #3
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compressor not engaging

Thank you for the reply.The pressures were obtained at 1500rpm, ac set to recirculate (max), fan on high. And it was over 90deg, probably 93deg. There was no evidence of debris on the inside of fittings, Im not sure what plugged the dryer, assuming the desiccant solidified.
There is a txv (p/n TBG 2D), looks like it may have been replaced. There is no accumulator that I can see, unless it is on the engine side of the radiator bulkhead. Only the filter dryer is showing. No orifice tube, I looked near the txv, though there is a fitting on the bottom of the txv that would require a pin wrench (2 holes in a plate about the size of a dime on the bottom of the txv block, figured this was for adjustment.
With the relay jumped, the suction line is cold and sweating. It 'feels' fixed, if the compressor would engage.
Thanks again. Ken
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Old 06-09-2017, 08:45 AM   #4
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OK. If it has a TXV then it will not have a cycling switch nor suction accumulator. You could look for a HS pressure switch of some sort. Some of these are dual function(high and low) and i would peck on the side of it. Since you have a contamination issue anything could be going on. If you are jumping the compressor relay then it makes me wonder if it's getting a signal? From here my opinion doesn't count as I haven't worked on cars in 10ish years and a lot has changed. I would Google the issue and see it there is a known issue. I would also seek a wiring diagram if you don't have.

1500 RPM's is a little fast without a VERY LARGE fan blowing on the condenser. If it is electric you can get by with a little "over-rev". I always tried to check at 1000-1100RPMS...on a viscous fan you lose efficiency at 1500 RPMS unless you have an big a#% fan in front.

Since you aren't the original owner anything could be going on. Too much oil(stupid oil dye), contaminated system, restriction somewhere(condenser), bent line(collision/mechanical repair). I dunno. If it is contaminated? be prepared to replace:compressor, all lines, condenser, expansion device and clean the rest. It is the only semi-guaranteed way to get rid of the contamination. I would talk to a friend who works on FORD a/c systems. He/she can tell you why/where. Good luck on your service. If you think I might help or steer you feel free to PM me.
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Old 06-09-2017, 09:24 AM   #5
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Resolved!

Thanks, IwannaCamp!
Your direction started me looking at the suction line, where a blue wire on which there was attached a crimp-on flag terminal, was unplugged from a terminal on the low pressure cutout switch (I think that is what it is). There was no voltage going to the sensor.
Now I am going to re-check pressures at a lower rpm.
It seems that Evans, the maker of the evaporator hardware, has ceased using this txv, it may be a problem. There still seems to be a restriction (high too high, low too low), but it is better than before.
Thank you again! It's great to be on the forum. Sincerely Ken
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Old 06-09-2017, 09:32 AM   #6
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good deal Sir.
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Old 06-16-2017, 08:38 PM   #7
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good deal sir.


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Old 06-16-2017, 08:44 PM   #8
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So, I didn't get the cooling that was expected. And as IwannaCamp said the high pressure was high, the low pressure was low indicating a problem. The first photos show the old txv, and a lot of grit and contamination. The last photo shows the old and new txv. Turns out that Evans discontinued the old valve, this is the new replacement p/n.
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Old 06-17-2017, 12:25 PM   #9
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I've read that the air hoses outside the cab are near a heated part of the motor... so people insulate them and that works goid
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Old 06-17-2017, 07:05 PM   #10
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any pics of the insulation on the air hoses anyone. i love the idea of making the cab air more efficient
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