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Old 05-25-2015, 08:29 PM   #41
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I installed my safe t plus this week end. Had to use a breaker bar to get those 1/1/8 inch nuts off the lead spring brackets. Pulled to left on first time out and took two retry adjustments in the Home Depot parking lot off the highway to get it running str8t. I'm very pleased with the outcome as I. Did the CHF at the same time.

I'm concerned that the mounting bracket for this install mounts underneath the tie rod not above as in the training vid on the safe t plus web site. And the bracket appears to angle down a Slight angle. When I first installed it I hung the stabilizer bolt from top to bottom leaving the extra thread hanging below. The inch 1/2 of thread appeared to be the lowest point on the rig so I turner the bolt over head down and extra thread pointing up. ( performed after theses pics).

My last question has to do with the extra two bolts provided "to replace the ford stopping bolts" instructions say these bolts must replace the factory bolts on Ford. Did you use them? As far as I can tell they are supposed to reduce the turning radius ie: increase the stop length. Instructions say: if there is more than six inches travel ( tie rod) in either direction install bolts. I suppose to do this I would place a white mark on the tie rod and another mark on the axle frame aligned with it. And turn the wheel full left and then right measuring the distance.


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Old 05-25-2015, 10:28 PM   #42
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Technorick,

My measurement, the bolts were not required to extend the stops for this application. Mainly they are to stop from over extending the cylinder. The bracket kits fits several different applications so the bolts are included.

For the tie rod twist thus the cylinder hanging down, I set the tie rod in the middle of its travel of the ball joints before tightening the U-bolts. There is a bit of the SafeT unit that is a touch lower, but for not enough to worry about for me. When tightening the large bolts, it pulled the tie rod back to the middle of the travel.
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Old 05-26-2015, 12:21 AM   #43
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I don't know, JeNNY is my 3rd RV, 2nd class A, and l think she drove just fine. We had winds at our backs, side, head on, heavy rain, sleet, hail, snow, thunder and lighting, thick heavy clouds, and fog and I feel she drove great towing our Jeep on a trailer. It drove like a class A. But I do not get above 65mph, mostly 99% of the time I'm at 62/63mph.


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2000 Jeep TJ Moab Rock Crawler
2013 Jeep JK
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Old 05-26-2015, 11:09 AM   #44
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Wayne and Sherry, why do you trailer your Jeep instead of pulling flat? Just curious.
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Old 05-26-2015, 12:08 PM   #45
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Just curious. Does the 2016 30 DS still need the CHF fix. What exactly does it help out with? I do notice on our 2016 model that when I drive down the road, I have to hold the steering centered at about 1 to 2 o'clock to drive straight but I figured this is an alignment issue. My rig does rock back and forth in the wind and if I try to reach the stereo I tend to drift. Does doing the CHF fix any of these or should I just get the Blue Ox True Center?

I haven't had a Class A before only Class C's and it feels a lot bigger than a class C but I am not sure if that is because you are up a lot higher or there is an actual problem with the rig.

Thanks
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Old 05-26-2015, 12:45 PM   #46
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Definitely do the CHF it will firm up your ride and reduce some of your sway. It's the only free suspension fix so why not take advantage of it. Some after market brand of "return to center" steering would also be recommended. Get the alignment done first though. I use the Roadmaster reflex steering stabilizer and find it to be a huge improvement on the road.


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Old 05-26-2015, 01:04 PM   #47
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The alignment (total toe reading) was so far off I destroyed the front set of tires with less then 10k on them. I replaced the Goodyears with Michelin XZE's on the front. Also had the Ford truck service center straighten out my steering wheel. It was off center about 20 degrees.


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Old 05-26-2015, 04:23 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Relore View Post
Just curious. Does the 2016 30 DS still need the CHF fix. What exactly does it help out with? I do notice on our 2016 model that when I drive down the road, I have to hold the steering centered at about 1 to 2 o'clock to drive straight but I figured this is an alignment issue. My rig does rock back and forth in the wind and if I try to reach the stereo I tend to drift. Does doing the CHF fix any of these or should I just get the Blue Ox True Center?
...
Thanks
Does your unit need anything fixed? The CHF will REDUCE roll. A rear panhard bar will REDUCE tail wag. A stabilizer like true center will REDUCE drift (Yaw). All these relatively inexpensive solutions will have a cumulative effect on the handling of your box. It is the lack of weight and sq area of the box that cause the unit to be susceptible to the force of air movement. Is that steering wheel correction constant or does it change with road and wind conditions?
So, if you are white knuckling it, can't stay in your lane, feel like you were beat up when you finally arrive at your destination, then you might try some or all of the solutions mentioned. If you have not driven the box enough to answer those question then its a good time to do nothing. BTW, I have heard that a set of Koni's help a great deal but have not done that (yet). Mostly because my box now drives like a van.
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Old 05-28-2015, 07:29 AM   #49
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b1 the Jeep (OlllllllO) rides on a trailer because though it dose drive on the road, its primary use is for off road use. When we go places that we do not plan to do much off roading then l flat tow a 2013 Jeep (OlllllllO) Wrangler JK.Click image for larger version

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JeNNY (2015 FR3 / 30DS)
2000 Jeep TJ Moab Rock Crawler
2013 Jeep JK
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Old 06-02-2015, 08:49 PM   #50
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we did the CHF tonight, headed for Eldora Thursday for the DREAM weekend I will let you know what I think when I get back. Had a little trouble with the left rear getting the bolts back in the holes but finally used the rear levelers to find the sweet spot.
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