I used a breaker bar (Harbor Freight) while your there, get a set of the 6 point impact driver 1/2 sockets. I did mine a few months ago. I also replaced the torsion bar bushings (front and rear) at the same time.
I just finished a 2,000 trip last week and am happy to report a significant improvement in handling and stability, particularly in cross winds, when a 18 wheeler passes, and on those occasional times when my right wheels go off the road.
There seems to be a problem with later model F53s with the rear torsion bar bracket bolts coming loose and falling out. When ever I'm under mine, I always look specifically at these.
If you replace the rear bushing, be very, very, very careful to protect the ABS sensor located on top of the differential. It will break. and it will be a real "^&#$^#$^*($" to get the old piece out.
Although its not necessary, I extended the front links by 2 inches to improve their angle when connected to the rear set of holes on the front torsion bar. I did this by cutting the links in half, and then inserting and welding these halves into a 10 inch long piece of 1/2/ water pipe. (see photo)
On the rear torsion bar, the links will; move the toe rear set of holes, no problem, you will need to reverse the rear "Z" brackets to mount them.
ALSO - In my photos, note that I used the "Z" bracket on the front, but I had to put some serious notches in it. I would not do this again, I would just leave the "Z" bracket off. (If you don't extend the links, you won't be able to use the "Z" bracket anyway.)
Here is a short writeup I did on mine -
Cheap Handling Fix – and then some | 2001 Coachmen Mirada 300QB