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Old 09-09-2015, 07:35 PM   #11
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Mobile 1 Costco on sale, worth every penny.
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Old 09-09-2015, 07:41 PM   #12
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Will check it out!
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:36 PM   #13
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Very funny. The use of full synthetic obviously will not hurt but tests from reliable independant sources have determined that there is no appreciable wear or fuel economy gains vs API certified motor oil of the same viscosity. Based on cost and assuming you are changing the oil & filter as prescribed in the manual, you are likely wasting your resources. Then again if you looked at performance specs for synthetic oils you would be surprised. Check it out: http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
Okay, I looked over the report, did not read whole thing. The reason I use full synthetic is it reduces oil sludge at the high temp modern engines create to meet emissions and fuel economy. Regular oils especially paraffin based ones (Pennzoil, Quaker state) sludge at the higher temps and need to be changed more often. They are great for race cars that get oil changes after every race. It is sludge that will kill a modern engine. Now synthetic oil will eventually brake down just not near as fast. Also the they were not even comparing apples to apples. Straight 50w weight would beat them all in a load friction test. But it would wear the hell out of the engine on start up. Rule of thumb for vehicles "Every thing is a compromise". Also the Mobil 1 in the test is 0w-40 , the Mobil S is 10w-40, so they are comparing a 0w to a 10w oil not a scientific test at all extremely flawed science. Wouldn't even pass for a middle school science
fair project.
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Old 09-10-2015, 07:33 PM   #14
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I concur with your assessment of the test process. Additionally, Mobil 1 is not designed for pressures that you would find in heavy gearbox application which is what the test is simulating. I use Mobil 1 as recommended in my Baby Daimler for 10,000 mile oil change intervals. I also do not use Pennsylvania oil due to the parafin content but I'm not sure that is still a problem with those brands these days. So how many miles before the sludge becomes a factor with the factory recommended blend vs full synthetic? I think you would have to know that in order to be able to justify the cost over time. Assuming 5000 mi change intervals because we all have rooftop carriers.
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Old 09-10-2015, 08:15 PM   #15
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It's just my opinion, but the 18000 and 22000 F53 chassis are also used as delivery trucks which likely get loaded to maximum weight and driven like they were stolen. I would guess almost anything an rv'er could do to a motor home would fall into the light duty category.
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Old 09-10-2015, 08:25 PM   #16
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If you read up on the v10. You find out one of the weakness occurs after the spark plugs are changed they tend to strip or blow out plugs from the heads. Every thing I've read on the subject referred to it occurring after having the plugs out. So there's no way I'm following the heavy duty use recommendation of 60000mi tune up and will do it a 100000mi for the light duty use.
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Old 09-10-2015, 09:03 PM   #17
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Good thing to know!
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Old 09-10-2015, 09:43 PM   #18
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Good thing to know!
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Old 09-13-2015, 01:24 AM   #19
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Local Ford dealer did the service oil/lube $75 total...and when i go to sell it all records are tied to vin and available from Ford. ill keep it at the Ford dealer. You can change it yourself or go somewhere else but having the manufacturer do it always helps when you sell.
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Old 09-13-2015, 04:03 AM   #20
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...Additionally, Mobil 1 is not designed for pressures that you would find in heavy gearbox application...
Funny, Mobil makes a Mobil 1 gear lube for rear ends, Mobil 1 for transmissions, etc.
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