FR3 25DS vs 30DS handling and size? Help! Can't decide!

[PJF]

Howdy,

These forums have been a great resource for me and thanks to everyone in advance.

Potential new FR3 owner here that is having a difficult time deciding between the 25 and the 30.
I've seen them both in person and have driven both the 25 and the 30.

I much prefer the floorplan of the 30 over the 25, but of course I like that the 25 is a bit smaller and I may be imagining that it feels a bit more nimble when driving.

This isn't a "what's better 25 or 30 question", but more of a will I really notice a huge day to day difference driving and handling with the 30 vs the 25.

I'm mostly concerned about driving up narrow canyons, in the mountains, etc, is the 30 going to drive and handle much heavier then the 25, or is it not really that much of a difference?

Also, going to the super market, looking for parking and day to day while I'm in the city is it much harder to live with a 30 vs a 25?

This is my first motor coach and would greatly appreciate any feedback.

Thanks!
-PJ

[StephanFR3]

Both are the same width. The wheel base is shorter on the 25, so it will turn in a smaller circle. But I believe the rear overhang is the same which swings opposite of your turn. So tight places they will both have similar problems. I have a 30 and pull a corrola on a dolly. And park in back of parking lots sideways. I have 3 kids and have traveled 10000 miles in less than year. Just was in Maine NH and Vermont. Am currently in Boone NC. Will be in Palm Beach in few days. I need the 30 for 3 kids.

[StephanFR3]

This is my first rv of any kind.

[StephanFR3]

BTW it rides like a truck, because it is a truck. And rule of thumb if it's heavier it rides better.

[Lcblick]

I own the 30 and it is actually pretty smooth once you get used to it. The engine is sluggish when going up big hills but then again, it isn't a diesel. I say go for the 30. Much better floor plan.


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[StephanFR3]

It will rattle your teeth out on the frost heaves in the north on smaller raods. Fine on good highways. But not New York turn pike.

[cucamelsmd15]

I would vote 30. More wheelbase always equals more stability down the road.

FWIW, you learn to plan ahead when taking a trip. My FR3 and race trailer (pics posted elsewhere in this forum) checks in at close to 60'. I don't find it too bad. Its certainly not the 83' of toterhome I'm used to.

[StephanFR3]

Oh mine rides better pulling the car. Especially when a semi is passing you at 80.

[PJF]

Thanks everyone, your replies helped! 30 it is.

[StephanFR3]

BTW that's the semi doing 80 as the F53 chassis is speed limited to 75mph.

[reinerka]

One last item to consider is that some campgrounds have limitations on size - smaller is better - at least pn the west coast :-)

Reiner


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[StephanFR3]

Smaller opens more options, but being only 30 amp has been more important when I have camped.

[StephanFR3]

35 foot or less is also important.

[StephanFR3]

If you pull a vehicle you can't really back up.

[StephanFR3]

Found out from family that it's rougher in back when pulling car. I know it's smoother in front.

[z3406]

I did the cheap handling fix to my 30DS yesterday. Took about an hour. Really helps reduce or eliminate the coach swaying side to side. Here is a link to the thread over at the IRV2 forum.

Cheap Handling Fix - iRV2 Forums

[BarbaraG]

So, where are the sway bars? And, how hard is it to make this fix? Is it something I might be able to do myself or should I get a mechanic?

Thanks.

Barbara

[BarbaraG]

I looked under the RV and see the sway bars and think I see the connection points they talk about. I'll crawl under there later and see if I think I can make the change.

B

[z3406]

Barbara
If you look at the link I posted there are literally hundreds of pages of information about the CHF. Everything you need , pics instructions, discussions of the pros and cons are there. What you need for a FR3 are 15mm , 18mm wrenches and a small jack to move the sway bar once it has been loosened. Torque wrench and blue locktite are also helpful.

[cucamelsmd15]

No offense Barbara, but unless you've got a breaker bar and some decent upper body strength, I think you might find the CHF hard to do. The torque spec is supposed yo be 68 ft lbs? But when the cornfed boy named Jethro in Dearborn put mine on, I think they were torqued to HNNNNGGGHHHHHHH +/- a few foot pounds. It was everything I could do to break mine loose, and I am not lacking for strength or tools.

FYI, Ford will do it too. I think they charge an hour of labor.