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Old 10-24-2016, 12:51 PM   #1
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FR3 32DS Sway Bars

Wandering if anyone out there added sway bars to there 2015-2016 32 DS, and if so which man,model did you use? What other upgrades have you done as far as steering stabilizer.
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Old 10-25-2016, 08:16 AM   #2
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Add Timbren rubber suspension upgrades on all four corners for about 700.00 dollars. So for so good did it my self not a big deal with hand tools wrenches in about two hours in the driveway. Already done CHP then this to minimise body roll.
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Old 10-25-2016, 08:46 AM   #3
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Which FR3 do you have? Do you remember which kit you used?
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Old 10-25-2016, 02:56 PM   #4
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2016 32ds

I haven't added any sway control yet, I just did the cheap handling fix (CHF - cost =$0.00) took it out this past weekend and it was a world of difference. don't think I need anything else as far as sway goes right now, but I may install a steering stabilizer though.
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Old 10-25-2016, 05:27 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by linchat View Post
Wandering if anyone out there added sway bars to there 2015-2016 32 DS, and if so which man,model did you use? What other upgrades have you done as far as steering stabilizer.
Check out Roadmaster website. They have a 1 1/2" sway bar that works in conjunction with the stock sway bar (you don't remove the stock one). Everyone I've talked to that has installed it says it work wonders to inprove the roll. It's on my list of things to do, soon.
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Old 10-26-2016, 07:37 AM   #6
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Check out Roadmaster website. They have a 1 1/2" sway bar that works in conjunction with the stock sway bar (you don't remove the stock one). Everyone I've talked to that has installed it says it work wonders to inprove the roll. It's on my list of things to do, soon.
I have heard of it and will check it out. Good to know that is has worked. How was the installation?

I could live with the vehicle the way it is now, it is just that and I quote "Driver Fatigue" is a factor. Constantly adjusting to road conditions definitely lowers the amount of hours you can drive and time between stopping. I think I could do 8 hours driving easy if the vehicle was a bit more stable.
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Old 10-26-2016, 10:46 AM   #7
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I have heard of it and will check it out. Good to know that is has worked. How was the installation?

I could live with the vehicle the way it is now, it is just that and I quote "Driver Fatigue" is a factor. Constantly adjusting to road conditions definitely lowers the amount of hours you can drive and time between stopping. I think I could do 8 hours driving easy if the vehicle was a bit more stable.
Before I did the CHF, front and rear, and added the Safe-T-Plus stabilizer I white knuckled in any wind or passing trucks and felt fatigued after driving all day. Sure, I still get moved around some but, it's no where near as bad. Even the wife will drive now and is not afraid.
As for the install on the additional sway bar, I've heard that with the proper tools (there is some drilling in the frame that's needed) it took about 2 hours. It's a DIY if you're able.
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Old 10-26-2016, 09:09 PM   #8
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Just an FYI. The make and model of your coach has little to nothing to do with finding the right aftermarket parts. They are all built on the Ford F-53 Motorhome Chassis. The CHASSIS year and GVWR are the important factors along with wheelbase. The 32DS is built on the 20,500 lb gvwr chassis and has a 228" wheelbase which is a stock length. You can determin your chassis model year via the Ford VIN.

On to the OP, Im looking at the roadmaster anti sway bar add on or Sumo Springs to lessen the roll. I have already done CHF w/helwig links, safe-t-plus steering stab and Blueox track bar. Each add on has enhanced driveability. I have about 30,000 miles on my 2014 now and this next project will be the last one. I am leaning towards the Sumo springs because they address all four corners however I do not want to stiffen the ride. Thats why I have not pulled the trigger on them. I had Timbrens on a smaller chassis and they worked ok but did make the ride harsh when loaded. Im thinking Sumo springs might do the same. I do not know if Sumo fits the 20.5 chassis. Mine is an 18k. Hope this helps.
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Old 10-27-2016, 12:50 PM   #9
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Just an FYI. The make and model of your coach has little to nothing to do with finding the right aftermarket parts. They are all built on the Ford F-53 Motorhome Chassis. The CHASSIS year and GVWR are the important factors along with wheelbase. The 32DS is built on the 20,500 lb gvwr chassis and has a 228" wheelbase which is a stock length. You can determin your chassis model year via the Ford VIN.

On to the OP, Im looking at the roadmaster anti sway bar add on or Sumo Springs to lessen the roll. I have already done CHF w/helwig links, safe-t-plus steering stab and Blueox track bar. Each add on has enhanced driveability. I have about 30,000 miles on my 2014 now and this next project will be the last one. I am leaning towards the Sumo springs because they address all four corners however I do not want to stiffen the ride. Thats why I have not pulled the trigger on them. I had Timbrens on a smaller chassis and they worked ok but did make the ride harsh when loaded. Im thinking Sumo springs might do the same. I do not know if Sumo fits the 20.5 chassis. Mine is an 18k. Hope this helps.
There are 2 Roadmaster sway bars (that retain the original sway bar) on their website (Roadmaster Inc. - Tow Bars, Braking Systems & RV Accessories) is the 1 1/2" #1139-143, for up to 34', and 1 3/4" #1139-144, for over 34'. GVWR is not a factor. They fit from 1988 to 2017. There is another for over 24,000#, 1 5/8", but it doesn't matter since the F53 for the FR3 is under that weight.
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Old 11-09-2016, 10:09 PM   #10
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2016 FR3 30DS. Did the cheap fix on factory sway bars, it helped some, replaced front sway bar with a Blue Ox sway bar, helped a little more, Installed a rear track bar, helped enormously I would say it took care of 75% of the sway problem when a 18 wheeler came by. Next step is an additional rear sway bar. Im sure it will help some. It already had a Safe T Sway installed when I purchased it. This is not only the first RV I've ever owned but also driven. I would never had believed they handle this bad. I guess its the light weight. Now I understand why the original owner traded it in on a Diesel MH. I have 4 years experience driving 18 wheelers and 30 years driving fire engines and aerial ladders. This is the worse thing I've ever driven. Can anyone tell me do all gas motorhomes drive like this? If I cant fix this I'm ready to be done with a motorhome.
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Old 11-10-2016, 08:09 AM   #11
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Look into Hellwig sway bars. It'll save you a couple hundred over the RoadMasters when I bought them.
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Old 11-10-2016, 12:24 PM   #12
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Thanks its on its way. Plus no drilling with the Hellwig rear sway bar.
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Old 11-10-2016, 01:34 PM   #13
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Yeah, it'll bolt to the bottom of the U-bolts. Granted, it was a pain to get the required torque on those U-bolts, but all in all, install was just a bolt on kit. Since you don't need the factory U-bolts, I found it easier/faster just to cut them off.
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Old 11-10-2016, 01:43 PM   #14
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Which Hellwig kit did you use? We have just bought the 2017 30DS. If we do this fix, do we also need to do the CHF? Front and back? Wander and sway is a pain and would like her indoors to drive as well. Not sure she would be comfortable until it handles better. Thanks for any advice.
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Old 11-10-2016, 02:09 PM   #15
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Which Hellwig kit did you use? We have just bought the 2017 30DS. If we do this fix, do we also need to do the CHF? Front and back? Wander and sway is a pain and would like her indoors to drive as well. Not sure she would be comfortable until it handles better. Thanks for any advice.
This was some info that I posted a while back. This was for a 2014 F53 chassis, 30DS. I'd verify that these are still valid numbers.

In case others are interested in the Part Numbers:
Hellwig 7217 for the front ($340, price I paid a while back) Looks like you can get it from SDTruckSprings with their coupon code "WEEKEND35" for $319 total)

Hellwig 7215 for the rear ($593, price I paid a while back) Looks like you can get it from SDTruckSprings with their coupon code "WEEKEND55" for $538 total)

Just do two separate orders to get the most bang for the buck. :-)

The front bar is a little bit more beefer than stock. I think between these two sway bars, trac bar, shocks, alignment, its now much more enjoyable to drive for longer distances. We've done about as much as 14-16hrs a day. Gust will still push you around a little at times, but its much more predictable manner now. I've likewise thought of installing Sumo's all around, but I can't see how it wouldn't make the ride even harsher than its currently. Hence I haven't gone forward with that.
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Old 11-10-2016, 10:03 PM   #16
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What was the torque on those rear U bolts? My torque wrench only goes up to 250. Did you notice any real difference with a front end alignment? Its very confusing I looked under a Class C the other day with a ford chassis I believe it was a F450. The sway bar looked only like a 3/4" bar. They said it drove fine with no problems??? I noticed you said you drove as much as 14 hours a day. I cant even imagine being behind the wheel that long in my 2016 FR3 30 DS. Its a shame I dont even look forward to driving it.
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Old 11-11-2016, 08:06 AM   #17
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What was the torque on those rear U bolts? My torque wrench only goes up to 250. Did you notice any real difference with a front end alignment? Its very confusing I looked under a Class C the other day with a ford chassis I believe it was a F450. The sway bar looked only like a 3/4" bar. They said it drove fine with no problems??? I noticed you said you drove as much as 14 hours a day. I cant even imagine being behind the wheel that long in my 2016 FR3 30 DS. Its a shame I don't even look forward to driving it.
Instructions says 275-300 ft-lbs. Our biggest reason for the front end alignment was that our right front tire was wearing very fast. And we only had about 5k miles on the unit when we got our RV. The units are supposed to have an alignment by FR before it leaves the factory, but they don't until you speak up. I think it does help it from being so darty/wandering once you get the caster worked out. Its been a while, but I think we ended up put a 2.5 degree caster shim on the RH side. Its taken a bit of work to get everything fairly comfortable to drive. I don't think its perfect, but its to a point that I'm ok with everything. We've done the drive from Kansas to Toronto Canada in just over 24 hr period and San Diego to Kansas in about 2 days. Its possible to tame this beast.

I haven't driven a class C, but we're usually quite a bit taller (~2ft) and have a bit of a tail overhang that doesn't help. I bet if you look at any F53 chassis similar to ours, you'll find similar handling problems. I'd start with the CHF if you haven't done that, then your alignment (for no other reason but to save those $$$ tires), rear trac bar, and sway bars. Just make sure your firm about making the alignment shop putting the caster at the high side of the Ford specs. My guy didn't want to do it so I just bought the shim online and installed it myself. And its not very expensive at around $100. Hope you get things sorted out. It was frustrating for us at first. So we feel your pain.
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