FR3 Cold weather driving and water lines

[CSroo]

Hi, wondering if I can drive in cold weather if I keep furnace and heater pads on without worrying about lines freezing. Was planning to blow out lines every time but we will be traveling often during Jan. and Feb.

Thx

[KansasFR3]

In the winter, I'll always have the furnace on as well as the water heater. I can't remember if the artic pads on the tanks are 120v, if so, you'd have to run the generator all the time. I usually don't worry about that. The furnace has an air duct that passes through the water bay underneath, so thats why its important to keep the furnace on no matter what to transfer some residual heat to that compartment. Having the water heater on also as some additional residual heat to the water bay too. Just make sure all the 4" feedthru covers on on, so the bays are as air tight as possible and you'll be fine. Once it gets down to 10F or so, I find it starts getting hard to keep the warm air over by the exterior doors. So it might be beneficial to have a fan underneath on to circulate air and/or an additional heat source (ie light bulb).

I do find the front cab does get cold while driving, so you may want an small electric heater up front to keep your toes warm. Then when your home, just plug it in and keep the furnace/water heater on is what I usually do if I have several back to back trips planned. You might burn some propane, but its pretty cheap now. I think I filled up from our Co-Op 2 weeks ago and it was $1.65, $30 total to fill our empty tank. Another note, if its down to the teens, be prepared to fill the propane tank every 7-10 days.

Also, consider getting a remote thermometer. I just bought this one and will give it a try this Xmas break. Enjoy!

[CSroo]

Thanks Kansas. That’s helpful & Reassuring
We live in Colorado and my folks are in KC so I Have been making the I 70 Crosswinds trip a few times since I bought the coach in September
First time with a broken U joint on the rear sway bar. I didn’t think my wife would ever ride with me again. Happy to find that, fix it, and do the CHF. Have you added any of the steering stabilizers or heavier duty sway bars?

[KansasFR3]

Yeah, we got our unit used out of Golden, Co with 5k miles, and after we got home, we also found the right rear sway bracket bent. It made for a handful drivings.

I think everything is an incrementally better than the previous mod. I'd do the CHF mod first along with a front end alignment if you haven't done so yet. Our front tires we're worn down to about 50% tread at 5k miles, so do that to save your front tires for sure. Our local heavy duty axle spring shop does it for like $100.

After that, we've put on a trac bar on the rear axle. Followed by a Hellwig 7217 front sway bar and add an additional rear sway bar to the rear, Hellwig 7215. Those Hellwig PNs are for the 30DS (18k chassis), it'll be different if you have a 32DS I believe since the rear axle is different.

We've also changed out the stock shocks from the OEM Blistens to Konis. We still sway when semi's past us, but its more predictable and tolerant. No longer suffer from driving fatigue like I did on the 8hr drive back from Denver. Sucks we have to "mod" our units to make it driveable, but it is what it is. Just start with the CHF and that front end alignment and go from there.

If your folks are close to downtown, we recently stayed in the parking lot of Isle of Capri casino for two nights and within walking distances along the river front to the City Market.

[CSroo]

Thanks again. We did the CHF and the alignment and it’s tolerable for now

But suspect that I will add more as we go along. I’ll keep a copy of your list with me during our travels

[Enconcapt]

What did use for remote thermostat.
It is a bugger to try to use the thermostat on my 25FR3 when the main slide is in Hudgins the thermostat

[KansasFR3]

Originally Posted by Enconcapt

What did use for remote thermostat.
It is a bugger to try to use the thermostat on my 25FR3 when the main slide is in Hudgins the thermostat

That remote thermostat link that I provided was just for me to monitor the temperature in the underbelly to make sure its not below freezing. Post a separate post and see if anyone has relocated their thermostat. I don't remember seeing a post, but never know.

[markb422]

My MH has an artic pack but I noticed some of the water lines run under the floor between the finished floor and underbelly. We are leaving for FL soon from MI so I added a little foam insulation under where I know the water line runs are. Just used liquid nails to attach and it is solid.

[CC Traveler]

If you hook up to city water while parked in freezing weather, you might consider a heated hose or pipe insulation foam. We use the foam. It is cheap and works well.

[KY25DS]

Originally Posted by Enconcapt

What did use for remote thermostat.
It is a bugger to try to use the thermostat on my 25FR3 when the main slide is in Hudgins the thermostat

I keep a hand mirror in the bathroom and a flashlight (or cell phone light) to see/change the thermostat on my 25DS when the main slide is in. Seems like bad placement idea by the Forest River but you can see/adjust it.

[cariboo camper]

A lot has been posted on these forums regarding travelling with the furnace on. Pictures showing burnt areas around furnace vent, even burnt out motorhomes. Be careful! suggest you check out other forums under this topic.

[twdenman]

Originally Posted by KansasFR3

In the winter, I'll always have the furnace on as well as the water heater. I can't remember if the artic pads on the tanks are 120v, if so, you'd have to run the generator all the time. I usually don't worry about that. The furnace has an air duct that passes through the water bay underneath, so thats why its important to keep the furnace on no matter what to transfer some residual heat to that compartment. Having the water heater on also as some additional residual heat to the water bay too. Just make sure all the 4" feedthru covers on on, so the bays are as air tight as possible and you'll be fine. Once it gets down to 10F or so, I find it starts getting hard to keep the warm air over by the exterior doors. So it might be beneficial to have a fan underneath on to circulate air and/or an additional heat source (ie light bulb).

I do find the front cab does get cold while driving, so you may want an small electric heater up front to keep your toes warm. Then when your home, just plug it in and keep the furnace/water heater on is what I usually do if I have several back to back trips planned. You might burn some propane, but its pretty cheap now. I think I filled up from our Co-Op 2 weeks ago and it was $1.65, $30 total to fill our empty tank. Another note, if its down to the teens, be prepared to fill the propane tank every 7-10 days.

Also, consider getting a remote thermometer. I just bought this one and will give it a try this Xmas break. Enjoy!

I use this monitor for inside, outside, water bay, and fridge. Works great, and the batteries last for months. Tracks humidity too. https://www.acurite.com/indoor-outdo...3-sensors.html

[KansasFR3]

Originally Posted by twdenman

I use this monitor for inside, outside, water bay, and fridge. Works great, and the batteries last for months. Tracks humidity too. https://www.acurite.com/indoor-outdo...3-sensors.html

Thats an awesome setup. Just might have to pick one up.

[KY25DS]

If you run TPMS you may not be able to use a wireless temp sensor. I ran into this and it is a common problem. YMMV.