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Old 01-18-2018, 04:09 PM   #1
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 85
FR3 DS 25 ride handling – morryde RS and RL experience – anyone?

Went to my dealer the other day to see the new FR3. Noticed the small sticker from morryde.
Didn't feel like crawling underneath to see what was hiding underneath there so I noticed on the inter-webs the following two links on the morryde site.
Anyone have experience with a brand new FR3 with a morryde suspension system?
Anyone retrofit an older FR3 with this system?

MORryde International, Inc. RS Suspension System

RL Suspension System - MORryde Products

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Old 01-21-2018, 01:16 AM   #2
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 63
I have a 2018 30DS and I’ve seen the morryde sticker by the door. This is my first RV so unfortunately I can’t compare it to anything. I still feel pushing when trucks go by but it’s manageable and anticipated. Mine drives much better with a full load of water.

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Old 01-21-2018, 01:46 PM   #3
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 85
I appreciate the reply, I didn’t think anyone out there had experience they were willing to share.

The amount of discussions on this board regarding the ride and handling characteristics of the Ford F-53 chassis has been beaten to death over the years.

All of the so-called fixes are well Documented by well-meaning posters trying to make this Conestoga wagon style chassis ride and handle like a real independent suspension airbag diesel pusher.

In all my searches for a solution to the ride and handling of our 2014 FR3 DS25, I had never heard of the morryde RS or RL. Only after seeing the sticker on the 2018 models did I start to look into this product.

This seems to be something that was more well known in the transit bus industry to keep passengers comfortable riding in a Heavy duty chassis.

Not like many, we have left our FR-3 completely original – saved for the so-called “CHF”. I know you can easily spend $5000 or more trying to fix chassis dynamics - only left wanting after all of the money and effort. I’ve never heard of anyone installing the system in all of the other post regarding the attempts to fix this prehistoric suspension/chassis combination .

Was able to deal with the chassis the way it was shipped by ensuring my tire pressures were correct. Sadly uninformed, I had gone to the Goodyear RV tire website and followed their recommendations - setting my air pressures at 101 PSI! The ride was horrific and I really did not like driving this Ford F-53 chassis one bit. After coming to my senses, unfortunately it was after a 8000 mile trip from California and Maine and back to California, did I find out the tire pressures are listed on the sticker on the wall. Once set to the factory suggested 82 PSI, I discovered the secret to making the ride and handling livable.

Morryde looks like a possible solution to Harsh suspension action/constant vibration/noise/harshness and rattling of interior that is common inside of a moving FR3. The other must do modification doesn’t involve the chassis at all, it’s bracing the dash, under the very flexible radio/entertainment system area between the driver and passenger seats. By adding a small wooden brace underneath, in my case set of wooden dowels cut from a closet hanger rod, the squeaking creaking rattling was eliminated.

Since I was working in that area I also discovered that the engine cover seal leaves a lot to be desired and went to my local Ace Hardware and purchased a self expanding rubber seal and completely redid the engine cover seal that cut down on a LOT of the heat infiltrating the interior as well as a LOT of noise from the front tires and engine. When you fix the engine cover seal you realize that the passenger and driver side windows are also the cause of a lot of wind noise and tire noise into the interior while driving. I don’t know if there’s a solution to that problem, at this point I’m thinking it might be better to use a set of Bose noise canceling headphones while driving to maintain focus and reduce the fatigue induced by listening to constant loud road noise.

It might be worth my trouble to put a set of these on as I intend to keep this RV for many years and would enjoy it far more if it would have a smoother ride.

Long post, thanks for your feedback.

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Old 01-26-2018, 07:29 AM   #4
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Port St. Lucie Florida
Posts: 87
Hey Michael, will put my 2 cents in. I just traded a 2016 30DS for a 2017 32DS with the MORryde installed. It was a huge difference driving the 32 footer. I had done the CHF on the older one and it did help. I can't say if it was the heaver chassis or the MORryde, but driving home, even in 30 MPH wind, was much improved. Not sure if I will even do the CHF on this one, but will know after my next long trip.
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Old 01-26-2018, 09:00 AM   #5
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 855
2017 270S with "mocrap" sticker too. No idea, makes no difference. For those that are willing, the $3K for sumis, stabilizer, and rear ant-roll were well worth it vs CHF imho - to each their own. Biggest difference was setting tire pressure from PDI dealer 100+ to 82 when I read the sticker too. Suspension upgrades were the icing - Steering stabilizer allowed me to keep the RV!

With that in mind, the best thing I found by fixing atrocious assembly by FR was the front windshield. I had it removed and reinstalled with a new gasket. The key here is that the factory uses NO to extremely small amount of "sealant" during install. I saw this first hand as mine was done. The professional 3rd party used 4 tubes vs apx 1/4 to 1/2 tube FR probably used. After it was finished, a short road trip was amazing to me & significant other - probably 80% of all remaining noise disappeared after suspension upgrades removed first 50%. For math geeks, total is 90%. the last 10% belongs to side windows, but bearable, not acceptable. We can actually talk to each other without using a loudspeaker!
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Old 01-27-2018, 01:01 AM   #6
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 85
Great to hear about these hard won lessons on the art of Forest River FR3 noise cancellation.

Ours is 2014, first year that has been relatively trouble free in the “house” assembly. There are a lot of moving parts in a RV, and as of today all is still working as promised. Miraculously. Windshield noise never considered, we have not had the bad luck to need a replacement. When that day arrives I won’t be so upset!

Only after a cross country trip that you begin to understand what’s important and what’s not when it comes to multiple 400 mile days in the drivers seat. No doubt sound is the most fatiguing part of driving for me.

No one to blame but myself for the tire pressure mistake.

The work I did making the DS25 more quiet was offset by the cold air intake and banks RV muffler, its a rare thing to hear a big v-10 roaring down the Interstate. At least the sound is music to me.

Morryde sounds like a big win for comfort, what is the priority on a f53 when everything only makes a small difference.
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Old 02-26-2018, 04:16 PM   #7
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 8
Question MorRyde on FR3

A look at the fine print on the MorRyde sticker reveals it only says "chassis uplift" by MorRyde. The M/R website details this, and it is NOT the same as the suspension upgrades. Looks to me like the only thing new here is the sticker; advertising what has been going on for years.
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Old 03-08-2018, 03:31 PM   #8
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 7
FR3 handling

I've done the CHF on my 2015 FR3 30DS with some improvement, then added the Roadmaster RSSA Reflex Steering Stabilizer. This made an appreciable improvement for me, but the handling still could be better. Like others, however, I really don't have anything to compare it with since this is my first MH.

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