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Old 01-06-2020, 07:23 PM   #1
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FR3 Heat Pump Issue

Hi all, hoping someone else may have had this issue. Just started a 4K mile trip and tested EVERYTHING yesterday while on Gen power, all good. Tonight tried to turn on front Atwood unit to "Heat" for heat pump and the furnace blower fan came on instead of the heat pump....wth??? We are connected to 50amp power and the "Furnace" button on thermostat is not selected. Maybe I am missing something, any ideas???
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Old 01-06-2020, 08:33 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by BatesMotel2 View Post
Hi all, hoping someone else may have had this issue. Just started a 4K mile trip and tested EVERYTHING yesterday while on Gen power, all good. Tonight tried to turn on front Atwood unit to "Heat" for heat pump and the furnace blower fan came on instead of the heat pump....wth??? We are connected to 50amp power and the "Furnace" button on thermostat is not selected. Maybe I am missing something, any ideas???


The outside temperature needs to be above a certain level or the heat pump won’t work. The furnace will start on its own instead.
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Old 01-06-2020, 11:54 PM   #3
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The outside temperature needs to be above a certain level or the heat pump won’t work. The furnace will start on its own instead.

Our AirCommamd AC1511 heat pump will shut down around 45 degrees per the manual. In practice it seems to be closer to 50. Kind of dumb, actually.

If the difference between the inside temp and the thermostat setting exceeds a small amount, 4 degrees or so, then the furnace will also come on to catch up faster.

Ray
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Old 01-06-2020, 11:59 PM   #4
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We are connected to 50amp power and the "Furnace" button on thermostat is not selected. Maybe I am missing something, any ideas???
As NXR and Miller Life said, and just a note, when the furnace button is pushed, it will bypass the heat pump but not the other way around as that is dictated by temperature.
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Old 01-07-2020, 09:33 AM   #5
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FR3 Heatpump Operation

Thanks all, I thought I might be missing something! It was over 50F when tested yesterday. AC1511 manual downloaded and attached here, like Mom always said, reading is fundamental! Thanks again, love this forum!



Attached Files
File Type: pdf MPD 15078 AC_IOM DUCTED 07 22 2013 Rev 2.pdf (1.81 MB, 47 views)
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Old 01-07-2020, 02:26 PM   #6
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Not so dumb?

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Our AirCommamd AC1511 heat pump will shut down around 45 degrees per the manual. In practice it seems to be closer to 50. Kind of dumb, actually.

Ray
Maybe not so dumb. Heat pumps can at best give around 20 degrees rise to air temperature. If the inside temperature is 50 degrees, the heat pump can at best emit air at 70 degrees. I can assure you, with decades of experience, that if you get out of the shower with 70 degree air blowing on you, you will find it uncomfortably cold.

Once the furnace gets the space up to 70 degrees or so, the heat pump's 90 degree output will be barely tolerable.
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Old 01-07-2020, 02:51 PM   #7
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Maybe not so dumb. Heat pumps can at best give around 20 degrees rise to air temperature. If the inside temperature is 50 degrees, the heat pump can at best emit air at 70 degrees. I can assure you, with decades of experience, that if you get out of the shower with 70 degree air blowing on you, you will find it uncomfortably cold.

Once the furnace gets the space up to 70 degrees or so, the heat pump's 90 degree output will be barely tolerable.
I don't know about Atwood A/C / heat pumps, but the Dometic in our 2011 Sunseeker does much better than that. With the coach at 70 degrees and the outside air temperature at 45 - 50 degrees, it puts out about 105 F from the overhead ducts. That's a 35 degree temperature rise. (The temperature differential is the difference between the outside temperature and the inside return air temperature to the unit. That what the unit is working with to heat or cool.)

With our Dometic unit, there's very little difference in the output temperature with outside temperatures from 45 to 65 degrees. When the temperature drops below 40 F, it periodically goes into defrost mode, so it can't put out heat continuously, but it will still keep the coach warm. Below 30 or 35 degrees (I forget) the thermostat switches to the furnace even if it's set to heat pump, just as others mentioned in previous posts.
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Old 01-07-2020, 02:54 PM   #8
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Thumbs down Atwood Heatpump

I have been RVing for over 53 years and I have bought a lot of junk. The Atwood Air Command heat pump is undoubtably the worse thing I have ever purchased.....a total piece of crap and the dealer who installed it could never get it to work right......plus an authorized mobile company could not get it to perform either . Both spent hours on the phone with Atwood and stated that the company was clueless about how it was supposed to operate....
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Old 01-07-2020, 03:02 PM   #9
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Strip heaters?

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I don't know about Atwood A/C / heat pumps, but the Dometic in our 2011 Sunseeker does much better than that. With the coach at 70 degrees and the outside air temperature at 45 - 50 degrees, it puts out about 105 F from the overhead ducts. That's a 35 degree temperature rise. (The temperature differential is the difference between the outside temperature and the inside return air temperature to the unit. That what the unit is working with to heat or cool.)

With our Dometic unit, there's very little difference in the output temperature with outside temperatures from 45 to 65 degrees. When the temperature drops below 40 F, it periodically goes into defrost mode, so it can't put out heat continuously, but it will still keep the coach warm. Below 30 or 35 degrees (I forget) the thermostat switches to the furnace even if it's set to heat pump, just as others mentioned in previous posts.
That's a pretty high temperature rise. Are you sure the unit doesn't also have strip heaters. They are heating coils, similar to what's in a toaster. They make it more comfortable, but the disk in the electric meter spins at about 78 rpm as it siphons greenbacks from your wallet.
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Old 01-07-2020, 05:40 PM   #10
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Maybe not so dumb. Heat pumps can at best give around 20 degrees rise to air temperature. If the inside temperature is 50 degrees, the heat pump can at best emit air at 70 degrees. I can assure you, with decades of experience, that if you get out of the shower with 70 degree air blowing on you, you will find it uncomfortably cold.

Once the furnace gets the space up to 70 degrees or so, the heat pump's 90 degree output will be barely tolerable.
"Dumb" as in it was in the low 40's to high 30's at night so 70 would be more than enough. But instead of using paid-for electric we needed to burn propane for a week instead. $50 worth of propane.

The second time it happened the furnace fan seized up at 4:45 AM two days into a five-day trip. We learned the electric fireplace will keep the main living area at 60 when it's 35 out. So two of our three heating sources were down.

Now we keep a space heater underneath, which is not as safe as using something built in.

Ray
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Old 01-07-2020, 09:10 PM   #11
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China?

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The second time it happened the furnace fan seized up at 4:45 AM two days into a five-day trip. We learned the electric fireplace will keep the main living area at 60 when it's 35 out. So two of our three heating sources were down.

Ray
I wonder if Suburban is now sourcing their motors from a third-world country. We seem to just now be hearing about motor problems on the forum. Never seemed to hear about them before.

The service manual says the motors are lifetime lubricated and not to lubricate them, so it can't be a maintenance issue.

DW brought a 2002 SOB as her dowry that she had full-timed in for over six years and the motor hasn't ever given a bit of trouble.
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Old 01-07-2020, 10:40 PM   #12
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We were on, I think, our fifth trip. Suburban suspected construction debris because the composite squirrel cage actually partially came apart. The dealer did not find any debris. I dunno but it was a good lesson on why carrying a space heater is not a bad thing.

Ray
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Old 01-08-2020, 07:25 AM   #13
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A change

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We were on, I think, our fifth trip. Suburban suspected construction debris because the composite squirrel cage actually partially came apart. The dealer did not find any debris. I dunno but it was a good lesson on why carrying a space heater is not a bad thing.

Ray
Well, I know that's a change. Ours has metal impellers. I've cleaned it with a toothbrush.
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Old 01-13-2020, 10:55 PM   #14
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The furnace will come on for a few seconds when in heat pump mode.BUT if ambient temp is lower the 40 degree heat pump will not work
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Originally Posted by BatesMotel2 View Post
Hi all, hoping someone else may have had this issue. Just started a 4K mile trip and tested EVERYTHING yesterday while on Gen power, all good. Tonight tried to turn on front Atwood unit to "Heat" for heat pump and the furnace blower fan came on instead of the heat pump....wth??? We are connected to 50amp power and the "Furnace" button on thermostat is not selected. Maybe I am missing something, any ideas???
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Old 01-20-2020, 11:35 PM   #15
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Hey rambler guy,

I’m new at this, I have a sunseeker with a dometic. Do i use heat pump or furnace?
I don’t know the difference. I pressed furnace and it blasted air from the air conditioner not necessary warm. Confused...
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Old Yesterday, 10:04 AM   #16
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Jlav

Had same problem. I figured out that the conflict is the fan speed. If the speed is on high or low the HP/AC will come on and run for ever. If you switch the fan speed to auto the HP/AC will turn off and the furnace will run as it should. It’s a strange setup. We originally had the thermostat come completely apart only to find three poles that controlled everything. Once reassembled the HP/AC came on and wouldn’t go off unless the fuse was shut off. Accidentally discovered the fan speed issue. once the Auto fan speed was chosen everything ran as it should. The Heat Pump concept has never gelled for me, so I just ignore it. It has never made sense to me that when it is fifty degrees outside that the heat pump will capture surrounding outside heat and raise the temp 20 degrees. I suspect the heat pump is actually a small heater, but who knows. Hope this helps.
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