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Old 07-12-2014, 12:26 PM   #61
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I wouldn't even know where to clean on the 30DS. Someone said the motor is up top behind the storage cabinets. Heck, the MH came with tools to manually open and close the slides, but no instructions to tell you where to use the tool. Knowing that would be a great start! Anyone?
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Old 07-12-2014, 03:07 PM   #62
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You know i still say that things go in cycles here. Sorry to hear about your problem. The thing is that these things should not be happening to begin with. Everyone pays good money for their units or MH. How many times do you estimate that you used that slide? Then it's always 2 or 3 weeks and FR has to order the parts. Hell they build them you know they have a stock pile, or the frame manufacturer has to have them. Who ever heard of that you have to pull boards up to make something work. PhotoMaster, I would try and wash out the gear area before you take it in, sometimes you get road grime caught in it. That's another area that needs covering to prevent it from happening...Good luck
I dont think you understand the gear and motor are INSIDE the coach...above the bed cabinets. There is no dirt or grime it is actually very clean. This is a case, i believe, of the bed boards catching and the gears stripping. Im thinking either the front slide has a heavy duty gear/motor or if its the same it is because of the way the boards that fold down when the bed slide is in are catching. And there is not a track to say it is a steel cable/pulley system. If mine breaks a second time ill be pushing to get the HD set that the catalog shows...even if i have to pay for it myself. As Photomaster notes...it is no fun pushing it. In isnt too bad but i find the push out with DW on switch to be the real back breaker and certainly not acceptable for such a 2 month old coach.
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Old 07-12-2014, 03:10 PM   #63
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I wouldn't even know where to clean on the 30DS. Someone said the motor is up top behind the storage cabinets. Heck, the MH came with tools to manually open and close the slides, but no instructions to tell you where to use the tool. Knowing that would be a great start! Anyone?
Ive removed the back of the cabinet over the bed and the motor/gear is right there. It is a pain to get too. But with the gear shearing a tooth (which is what it sounds and acts like) then it doesnt matter...the motor drives it fine..it slips on the missed tooth. That is when i find i have to shove it in/out then it grabs again until the bad spot on the gears comes back around. About 4 or 5 shoves total get it in or out. Even with the manual tool its not going to get past the problem tooth. That is why you have to push it. As stated i find in a lot easier (more room to work and can use both hands). When pushing it out i find it easy at first then as i get it farther out its harder to get leverage & traction.
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Old 07-13-2014, 08:20 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by zippyzrx View Post
I dont think you understand the gear and motor are INSIDE the coach...above the bed cabinets. There is no dirt or grime it is actually very clean. This is a case, i believe, of the bed boards catching and the gears stripping. Im thinking either the front slide has a heavy duty gear/motor or if its the same it is because of the way the boards that fold down when the bed slide is in are catching. And there is not a track to say it is a steel cable/pulley system. If mine breaks a second time ill be pushing to get the HD set that the catalog shows...even if i have to pay for it myself. As Photomaster notes...it is no fun pushing it. In isnt too bad but i find the push out with DW on switch to be the real back breaker and certainly not acceptable for such a 2 month old coach.
No your right I have one slide in the bedroom that is on cable motor inside. The other two are under the trailer for the main slides. Thought he was talking about the main slide. I got dirt or road grime after it rained and the roads were wet, but that was on the main slides.
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Old 07-13-2014, 10:05 AM   #65
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On the 30DS the bed boards don't flip up. I don't think a catching board is the issue. I just think they underestimated the weight of the slide when they decided on which motor/gear assembly to use. As I mentioned before, they give you extenders to allow you to crank the slides manually, but no instruction how to do it. Someone said that the gear that is bad doesn't pose a problem for manual cranking. If that's the case, a drill and the extender will allow us to open and close the slides without the pushing and pulling. Again, if someone knows how please post it. Do I have to disassemble something to get to the crank?
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Old 07-13-2014, 10:36 AM   #66
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For the 30DS you have to to move the wooden valance above the bed. As I remember, there are three screws covered with wood grained plugs. The entire valance has to be removed to get to the motor and gears. Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByForest River Forums1405265721.269913.jpg
Views:	267
Size:	631.0 KB
ID:	58068

You can barely see the plugs in the photo.


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Old 07-13-2014, 12:00 PM   #67
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Bed slide on 25-DS...

The gear box is the last component in line for the slide to move. If gear box is bad and motor is good, the slide still won't move. If you have the flexible shaft "tool" and a drill motor, if the gear box is bad, it is still broke. The tool will only help you if the motor burns up. AND, remember, slides don't move when the engine is running. Think about 60 MPH, moving down the road, and the button shorts out... WOW!!!

It appears that the engineers did not properly match the specs for the gear box and the work that was going to be required of it. UNDERSIZED for the load. I would like to see FR do a recall with a bigger, correct gear box. What do you think the odds of them doing that is?
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Old 07-13-2014, 12:04 PM   #68
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The gear box is the last component in line for the slide to move. If gear box is bad and motor is good, the slide still won't move. If you have the flexible shaft "tool" and a drill motor, if the gear box is bad, it is still broke. The tool will only help you if the motor burns up. AND, remember, slides don't move when the engine is running. Think about 60 MPH, moving down the road, and the button shorts out... WOW!!!

It appears that the engineers did not properly match the specs for the gear box and the work that was going to be required of it. UNDERSIZED for the load. I would like to see FR do a recall with a bigger, correct gear box. What do you think the odds of them doing that is?
Is your unit chain driven?
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Old 07-13-2014, 12:17 PM   #69
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Yes it is...

Sorry. I should have stated that the out put shaft of the gear box has a double sprocket on it that drives 2 chains, one for the forward half, one for the rear. The chains are connected to cables. The online manual shows how to adjust the cables and more. Seems like a real headache. Let the dealer do it under warranty, if it has to be done...
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Old 07-13-2014, 12:30 PM   #70
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This is for what it's worth to anyone that has a camper like ours. Hope it helps. We have a 2004 Cedar Creek 38KTS. 3 slides but we have a 3000.00 repair bill to pay because from what I understand from Tom Johnson Camping the bedroom slide has no stop so after the two other slides got a little harder over the years to pull in the bedroom slide went in too far and caused water to get in the bottom of the bedroom slide and rot the wood. The fix they say is to drill holes into the slide and tap the holes then put bolts in the hole to act as stops. This keeps the bedroom slide from coming in too far and causing problems. They say that the smallest slide which is the bedroom comes in first and only after it gets all the way in does the others come in. It's all done with hydraulics and when the other rooms gets a little harder than normal to come in it will force the bedroom slide in farther than it should thus creating a water entry point. Sure would have been nice if they had thought about that when they built the camper. We love the camper but this really hurts! So if you think the slides are not doing right have them checked out.
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Old 07-13-2014, 12:49 PM   #71
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Sorry. I should have stated that the out put shaft of the gear box has a double sprocket on it that drives 2 chains, one for the forward half, one for the rear. The chains are connected to cables. The online manual shows how to adjust the cables and more. Seems like a real headache. Let the dealer do it under warranty, if it has to be done...
You are correct then, mine is electric, so I have flexible shaft that fits at the motor end and then you use a drill to take it out or bring it in. If yours is like the rest of the hdy. motors then you need a socket. I know that system, mine opened up driving down the road. I now block it so it can't happen again. FR still won't ex plane that one to me. I was about 2 hrs from my camp site, and all of a sudden a car pulled up next to me and let me know it was extended. Something shorted either the switch or a wire to cause that. It was quite a surprise. I was lucky it didn't pull my topper off going 60mph when it happened.
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Old 07-13-2014, 01:00 PM   #72
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For the 30DS you have to to move the wooden valance above the bed. As I remember, there are three screws covered with wood grained plugs. The entire valance has to be removed to get to the motor and gears. Attachment 58068

You can barely see the plugs in the photo.


2014 FR3 30DS In New Jersey
On the 25DS you open the three storage cabinets above the bed. (In your photo parts of one storage cabinet is visible on the right side. You unscrew the panel (10 or 12 little wood screws) and remove the back of the cabinet. There is then an area that contains the short chain section and adjustments for all steel cables. The problem is the motor/gears are all one unit. So if you shear a tooth its not going to be better with the crank tool. (adapter for a corded/cordless drill). Also the gear/motor being one piece are completely enclosed by the housing of the motor/gear box. I should have taken pictures while i was in there.

Anyways i think the real fix for this is upgrading to the HD motor/gear set made by the slide maker. I suspect that is whats in the front slide and why it has no issue.
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Old 07-13-2014, 02:28 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by wjpelka View Post
It appears that the engineers did not properly match the specs for the gear box and the work that was going to be required of it. UNDERSIZED for the load. I would like to see FR do a recall with a bigger, correct gear box. What do you think the odds of them doing that is?
I'm not counting on any company to willingly do a recall for anything! Ford has a crossover called Freestyle that they renamed to Taurus-X, that accelerated on its own, has caused accidents involving injuries, they know the problem is a programming error in the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and they refused to issue a recall. The NHTSA is no better. Ford admitted their mistake to NHTSA and they said their admission was good enough. They could continue to manufacture the defective part as it was.
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Old 07-13-2014, 03:07 PM   #74
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Oh great! I drive one of those too. 140,000 miles with no issues.


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Old 07-13-2014, 03:21 PM   #75
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I almost took out a family in Wal-Mart parking lot when it took off on its own.

I love my FR3 30Ds even with its issues. (It doesn't take off on its own thankfully) I'm also in NJ.
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Old 07-13-2014, 03:53 PM   #76
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So im diggin around looking and the rear slide uses the Norco P22307 motor.
Wondering if the P22327 High Torque or P22328 Super High Torque would be the better replacement than the stock P22307 Standard Motor.

Link to motors...

http://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/ac...tor%20List.pdf


Just thinkin....
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:15 AM   #77
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Just Remember...It's the GEAR BOX...

The motor seems heavy duty enough to move the slide. The problem has always been the gear box. Maybe put the one that is being used in the front slide, since no one seems to have had problems with those.

Now I see that your link shows the motor and gearbox combination. My unit had a motor, then about a 3" flexible "old style speedometer cable" shaft, then the gear box.

I suppose that the combination unit would work. Might want to find one that has the ability to run the slide in and out if the motor burns up. Socket on the end or the flexible coupling that we have now.

R25076 No. 1308 43064 is the number that is on the gear box of the one that failed on my 25DS.

The unit is all tied together in one piece so if the gears match I would suppose that any one would work. You might think that Forest River would be making the suggestion for all future repairs...You would think...
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:20 AM   #78
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If cost wasn't an issue, I'd want the most robust motor I could get.
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Old 07-17-2014, 02:00 PM   #79
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There is no cluth in the FR3 slide out system, the problem is the gear box .

One or two teeth are stripped.

Real problem on the FR3
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Old 07-17-2014, 02:23 PM   #80
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And of course the dealership has never heard of this problem on the FR3.
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