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12-13-2014, 07:19 PM
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#121
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 12
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Poor design in FR25 for the doors over the bed.
Forget a door open and you will break you gear box for sure.
So I took the hinges from the base of the door and put them at the top.
In this way, the doors will never stay open and interfere with the frame of the slide out when you open it
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01-22-2015, 10:56 PM
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#122
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Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 85
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Round 2 on the bedroom slide
On our last camping trip our bedroom slide started making that awful noise again and had to be pushed both ways manually while the switch was pressed in order to get it to move.
It's back at the dealer and they have determined that they need to replace the motor and the gear. Apparently last time they worked on it they only replaced the gear, and not the motor. They have contacted FR and they feel that it may take 14 days to get the part.
FR employees, if you are watching this forum, I'd love to hear what we can do to make sure that the problem is fixed correctly and quickly.
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01-22-2015, 11:42 PM
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#123
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Spirit Lake, ID
Posts: 165
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FR3 Slide Out Issue
Units built after January 2014 have a different motor and Gear box installed. Was under the impression they are replacing defective units under Warranty of the previous design.. Two weeks seems like a very long time to wait.
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01-23-2015, 09:08 AM
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#124
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: NJ
Posts: 271
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Back in August I had posted how our main slide was making the same noise as our bedroom slide had made prior to breaking. Thankfully FR was quick to replace that one too. I love that FR was so good about fixing the problem.
My question is about using the flexible extension rods, should I have to manually open or close a slide with a drill. Would I really have to disassemble the cabinets over the slide? That seems like a really strange way to do things and they never gave instructions on it either.
__________________
Greg, Barbara and Cody the wonder-pup.
2014 FR3 30DS
(and 2 200cc Scooters)
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11-25-2016, 11:23 AM
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#125
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Deland, FL
Posts: 32
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I had the same problem
I recently returned from a cross country trip with my 2016 FR3 28ds. My rear slide was popping on the way in. My radio went out and my overhead bed continuously dropped out of the magnets. My motor-home has been at the dealer for over a month with no completion date in site.
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11-25-2016, 01:41 PM
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#126
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 156
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Fix for overhead bed
Our overhead bed would pop loose mainly when you hit an uneven bump leaving a parking lot or on very bumpy roads.
I cut broomstick to fit and put crutch tips on each end.
They jam into place and the issue is solved forever.
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11-25-2016, 03:22 PM
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#127
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Deland, FL
Posts: 32
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overhead bed
Driving from Fl to Seattle WA and almost 7000 miles my overhead bed fell so many times I eventually let it down till the squeaking was driving me crazy. On the interstate every time I hit a bridge it would pop out. I drove most of the country on duel highways. It didn't matter which road I was on for the bed to drop. I saw some where that the 2017 had a latch on it. I hope that they upgrade it to latches under the warranty.
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03-22-2017, 11:37 AM
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#128
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 2
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Accu slide adjustment
FR3 30DS, long time lurker, first post.
So, I want to get to the cables to make an adjustment (outside top cable looks loose) - how do I get to the motor? It's behind the cabinet, and the last screw is behind a piece of wall (photo with knife pointing at screw location). Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry about the photo quality, I can't seem to get them to go straight.
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03-22-2017, 01:46 PM
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#129
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Full timing around the states
Posts: 101
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I have a 2013 FR3 30DS.
All screws to the motor and adjustments are behind the top piece of wood attached to the ceiling.
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03-22-2017, 03:12 PM
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#130
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 2
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Ron, thanks for that. I can see the motor and cables behind the fascia so I know what to take off. My point is, the third (right hand side) screw in the fascia is hidden behind the piece of the back wall in the bottom photo. Seems crazy that I have to take apart the cabinet and the wall to get to the cables, I hoped there might be a better way!
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03-22-2017, 03:22 PM
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#131
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Full timing around the states
Posts: 101
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When I had the motor replaced, after it locked up, the only wood removed was the top.
On mine, no back or side wood or screws were removed.
The adjustments made on the top.
The cables could be seen from the side. ( the slide was about a foot in when adjustments were made, then ran out and back in to see the work correct.)
Nothing on the slide out unit was touched. But, seems every unit put out by FR has small differences. So, who knows!
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03-27-2017, 01:06 PM
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#132
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Full timing around the states
Posts: 101
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Just looked at the bedroom slide.
It does have a cover on the back wall over the last back screw.
I had the motor in the dining area slide go bad.
It looks, in the bedroom, like the partition is put in with small nails or staples. If that is the case, will just have to pull and re-nail.
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03-27-2017, 01:20 PM
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#133
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Deland, FL
Posts: 32
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Mine is still under warranty I haven't taken mine apart yet. Although mine is back in the shop for the kitchen slide. Last Nov it was in for the bedroom slide. Both have the same problem the motor and gear box. I'm stopping by the factory in Sept to see how all is put together.
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03-27-2017, 01:22 PM
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#134
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Deland, FL
Posts: 32
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FR3 slide update
Mine is still under warranty I haven't taken mine apart yet. Although mine is back in the shop for the kitchen slide. Last Nov it was in for the bedroom slide. Both have the same problem the motor and gear box. I'm stopping by the factory in Sept to see how all is put together.[/QUOTE]
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08-29-2018, 06:35 PM
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#135
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Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 92
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Yes this is an old thread but a ton of posts and information. After modifying my main liv/kit slide to prevent the IN/OUT blocks from colliding with each other and jamming I now have the much talked about GRINDING and expensive sounding GRINDING on the bedroom slide of my 2014 Georgetown.
Have FR or Accu-Slide [Accu the world's greatest misnomer] come up with a more robust gear box.
Only had this rig 1 year [15K miles total 2K of my travel] and both slides failed, levelers failed to retract, windscreen shade stopped working, this is no way to enjoy RV'ing.
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08-29-2018, 06:38 PM
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#136
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Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 92
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While not a Georgetown or FR product this video shows how to replace the gearbox and at the end shows how the gear box is failing. A simple change to the casting allowing for more metal around the intermediate gear shaft would have solved this problem long ago.
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08-30-2018, 11:35 AM
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#137
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Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 92
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Got a "response????" from Forest River today. It is like they don't know this problem exists. 14 pages on this thread alone and a ton of YouTube videos on the subject.
They told me to contact Nordcoind but when I sent an e-mail to the address listed on their web page for this product it got bounced. Great customer service! NOT!
Found a couple of dealers who sell the gearboxes in the $88 to $93 range. Amazon is $108. Make sure the gear box [R25076 in my case] has a serial number = or greater than 170xxxxx as supposedly this is an upgraded housing to prevent the intermediate gear from tearing through the thin aluminum holding its shaft in place. My original gear box had a serial number of 130xxxxx so it was much older.
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08-30-2018, 02:42 PM
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#138
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 38
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I too have replaced both slide out gear boxes in the past 2 yrs on a 2016 FR3. The latest replacement was last month and I got the gear box from dyersonline. I went ahead and ordered the motor/gearbox kit just to have a spare motor on hand and the one I received is labeled "high torque" on the motor part and the gearbox serial starts with 18 so it's even newer. I don't know if the high torque is going to make a difference long term or not but they do have good prices and fast shipping.
BAL Norco Accu-Slide Motor & Gear Box Kit - Slide-Out Parts - Hardware
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08-30-2018, 02:55 PM
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#139
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Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 92
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mjessie, I found the supplier you linked to have the lowest price. Amazon was $20 higher for just the gearbox.
I may entertain installing a motor control board to limit the current. Tripping the motor over-current setting would certainly be less expensive that repeated replacement of the gear box or other mechanical components.
Have to look at the wiring of my control panel to see if I can be creative and use a single control board for both the bedroom and the liv/kitchen slide out [not at the same time of course].
Link for control board
http://www.kinetekcontrols.com/produ...ntrollerDS.pdf
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08-30-2018, 02:56 PM
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#140
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Broward County
Posts: 301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wurlitzer28
Got a "response????" from Forest River today. It is like they don't know this problem exists. 14 pages on this thread alone and a ton of YouTube videos on the subject.
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Disappointing.
Of course they know. They should grow a pair and man up. There's better ways to handle this. They could order a batch of gearboxes and even sell them to 'us' at cost. It would keep us happy. Now they are pointing fingers...
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