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Old 07-13-2014, 01:49 PM   #71
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Sorry. I should have stated that the out put shaft of the gear box has a double sprocket on it that drives 2 chains, one for the forward half, one for the rear. The chains are connected to cables. The online manual shows how to adjust the cables and more. Seems like a real headache. Let the dealer do it under warranty, if it has to be done...
You are correct then, mine is electric, so I have flexible shaft that fits at the motor end and then you use a drill to take it out or bring it in. If yours is like the rest of the hdy. motors then you need a socket. I know that system, mine opened up driving down the road. I now block it so it can't happen again. FR still won't ex plane that one to me. I was about 2 hrs from my camp site, and all of a sudden a car pulled up next to me and let me know it was extended. Something shorted either the switch or a wire to cause that. It was quite a surprise. I was lucky it didn't pull my topper off going 60mph when it happened.
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Old 07-13-2014, 02:00 PM   #72
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For the 30DS you have to to move the wooden valance above the bed. As I remember, there are three screws covered with wood grained plugs. The entire valance has to be removed to get to the motor and gears. Attachment 58068

You can barely see the plugs in the photo.


2014 FR3 30DS In New Jersey
On the 25DS you open the three storage cabinets above the bed. (In your photo parts of one storage cabinet is visible on the right side. You unscrew the panel (10 or 12 little wood screws) and remove the back of the cabinet. There is then an area that contains the short chain section and adjustments for all steel cables. The problem is the motor/gears are all one unit. So if you shear a tooth its not going to be better with the crank tool. (adapter for a corded/cordless drill). Also the gear/motor being one piece are completely enclosed by the housing of the motor/gear box. I should have taken pictures while i was in there.

Anyways i think the real fix for this is upgrading to the HD motor/gear set made by the slide maker. I suspect that is whats in the front slide and why it has no issue.
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Old 07-13-2014, 03:28 PM   #73
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It appears that the engineers did not properly match the specs for the gear box and the work that was going to be required of it. UNDERSIZED for the load. I would like to see FR do a recall with a bigger, correct gear box. What do you think the odds of them doing that is?
I'm not counting on any company to willingly do a recall for anything! Ford has a crossover called Freestyle that they renamed to Taurus-X, that accelerated on its own, has caused accidents involving injuries, they know the problem is a programming error in the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and they refused to issue a recall. The NHTSA is no better. Ford admitted their mistake to NHTSA and they said their admission was good enough. They could continue to manufacture the defective part as it was.
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Old 07-13-2014, 04:07 PM   #74
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Oh great! I drive one of those too. 140,000 miles with no issues.


2014 FR3 30DS In New Jersey
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Old 07-13-2014, 04:21 PM   #75
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I almost took out a family in Wal-Mart parking lot when it took off on its own.

I love my FR3 30Ds even with its issues. (It doesn't take off on its own thankfully) I'm also in NJ.
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Old 07-13-2014, 04:53 PM   #76
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So im diggin around looking and the rear slide uses the Norco P22307 motor.
Wondering if the P22327 High Torque or P22328 Super High Torque would be the better replacement than the stock P22307 Standard Motor.

Link to motors...

http://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/ac...tor%20List.pdf


Just thinkin....
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:15 AM   #77
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Just Remember...It's the GEAR BOX...

The motor seems heavy duty enough to move the slide. The problem has always been the gear box. Maybe put the one that is being used in the front slide, since no one seems to have had problems with those.

Now I see that your link shows the motor and gearbox combination. My unit had a motor, then about a 3" flexible "old style speedometer cable" shaft, then the gear box.

I suppose that the combination unit would work. Might want to find one that has the ability to run the slide in and out if the motor burns up. Socket on the end or the flexible coupling that we have now.

R25076 No. 1308 43064 is the number that is on the gear box of the one that failed on my 25DS.

The unit is all tied together in one piece so if the gears match I would suppose that any one would work. You might think that Forest River would be making the suggestion for all future repairs...You would think...
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:20 AM   #78
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If cost wasn't an issue, I'd want the most robust motor I could get.
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Old 07-17-2014, 03:00 PM   #79
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There is no cluth in the FR3 slide out system, the problem is the gear box .

One or two teeth are stripped.

Real problem on the FR3
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Old 07-17-2014, 03:23 PM   #80
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And of course the dealership has never heard of this problem on the FR3.
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